93 dakota Failed Inspection help
I own a 1993 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4 automatic V6 engine 178k miles.
I failed my inspection with flying colors so I need some advice and know hows.
List of problems that failed me and 10 days to get it all done >>>
1. exhaust leaking all over.
2. left brake line leaking
3. right/left inner/outer tie rods bad
4. shocks leaking I just replaced the shocks 3 months ago
5. left front bearing bad
total cost from mechanic $1500
If I do it maybe less than $500
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Questions
1. The one thing I'm worried about is replacing my bearings because I hear it is hard. So since I'm a DIY person does anyone have a good guide on how to change a hub/wheel bearing?
2. What kind of shocks should I buy that are good?
3. Is it legal to weld a car exhaust?
Thanks
I failed my inspection with flying colors so I need some advice and know hows.
List of problems that failed me and 10 days to get it all done >>>
1. exhaust leaking all over.
2. left brake line leaking
3. right/left inner/outer tie rods bad
4. shocks leaking I just replaced the shocks 3 months ago
5. left front bearing bad
total cost from mechanic $1500
If I do it maybe less than $500
-----------------------
Questions
1. The one thing I'm worried about is replacing my bearings because I hear it is hard. So since I'm a DIY person does anyone have a good guide on how to change a hub/wheel bearing?
2. What kind of shocks should I buy that are good?
3. Is it legal to weld a car exhaust?
Thanks
Wow you have a lot to do in 10 days, Mostly what you listed are common replaceable parts. Go get a brake line and some axle grease....., while your there, give'em thier leaky shocks back for some new ones. Repacking a bearing, not a big deal. Weld that exhaust good,,,Fumes make one to think loopy............................................. .................................................. ............
As far as the bearings, if your truck is 4wd it should have a sealed hub assembly, you cannot buy just the bearing. Just take the caliper/rotor off and there are 4bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that hold it in. you may have to use a hammer and chisel to spread the hub from the knuckle. It aint hard and will only take 1-2 hours or less, for me like 30 min cause Ive done it so much.
Huh, I love the smell of exuast, and other vehicle related smoke (im into demo derbies) and mines got a leak but i personaly dont care, dont even know if we have those types of tests around here
Wow, I'm curious what state you live in. For vehicles this old, all the do here in NC is make sure the seatbelts, horn, lights, and windshield wipers still work. It sounds like they go through your truck with a fine tooth comb. Just out of curiosity, did you take your truck to a mechanic/inspector, or just an inspection station? I never take my truck to get it inspected anywhere that sells other products/services.
But anyway, none of that should be too hard. 3-5 are simple remove and install, although you'll need an alignment after the tie rods. 1 and 2 might be trickier if you've never done them before. If you can find a preformed brake line, that makes 2 a lot easier, otherwise you'll need a line bender. If you can weld, 1 should be a piece of cake.
But anyway, none of that should be too hard. 3-5 are simple remove and install, although you'll need an alignment after the tie rods. 1 and 2 might be trickier if you've never done them before. If you can find a preformed brake line, that makes 2 a lot easier, otherwise you'll need a line bender. If you can weld, 1 should be a piece of cake.
Wow, I'm curious what state you live in. For vehicles this old, all the do here in NC is make sure the seatbelts, horn, lights, and windshield wipers still work. It sounds like they go through your truck with a fine tooth comb. Just out of curiosity, did you take your truck to a mechanic/inspector, or just an inspection station? I never take my truck to get it inspected anywhere that sells other products/services.
But anyway, none of that should be too hard. 3-5 are simple remove and install, although you'll need an alignment after the tie rods. 1 and 2 might be trickier if you've never done them before. If you can find a preformed brake line, that makes 2 a lot easier, otherwise you'll need a line bender. If you can weld, 1 should be a piece of cake.
But anyway, none of that should be too hard. 3-5 are simple remove and install, although you'll need an alignment after the tie rods. 1 and 2 might be trickier if you've never done them before. If you can find a preformed brake line, that makes 2 a lot easier, otherwise you'll need a line bender. If you can weld, 1 should be a piece of cake.
Um.. Should I replace both my front wheel bearings if one is bad?
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or just got a mechanic buddy to right you up a dummy inspection sheet. Just get him to put his jorneyman number on it, and take 'er to the insurance office.
Well thats what we do here in Canada lol.
I had to get mine inspected too. One of my dads buddies came over and just did a quick check over everything. Ball joints were good, steering column/components, brakes, seatbelts, horn, and light. Thats about all he asked for. Passed with flying colors
Well thats what we do here in Canada lol.
I had to get mine inspected too. One of my dads buddies came over and just did a quick check over everything. Ball joints were good, steering column/components, brakes, seatbelts, horn, and light. Thats about all he asked for. Passed with flying colors
I'm in PA and I probably would of passed inspection if I went to a personal mechanic shop, but this year decided to go to a tire dealership. I'm a rookie arc welder so I should be able to get the job done on the exhaust.
Um.. Should I replace both my front wheel bearings if one is bad?
Um.. Should I replace both my front wheel bearings if one is bad?



