Control Arms
#1
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Anyone know any good online salvage yards? I need to find 2 control arms for my 96 4x4 Dakota. I bent the driver side control arm trying to get the upper ball joint out and figured it would be easier to this with these things off the vehicle and install afterwards.
None of the online parts stores (rockauto, Jc whitney, amazon etc) stock the control arm itself for this truck. Nothing on ebay or my local craigslist either. Not even going to ask a dealer.
Also, any tips on getting the upper ball joint out? Heat or special tool? That thing is seized in there.
None of the online parts stores (rockauto, Jc whitney, amazon etc) stock the control arm itself for this truck. Nothing on ebay or my local craigslist either. Not even going to ask a dealer.
Also, any tips on getting the upper ball joint out? Heat or special tool? That thing is seized in there.
#2
#3
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Haha well I had the upper control arm in a vice while I tried to get the top one out. I also had it out to replace the bushings as well. The uppers are screwed in right? I got the lower ball joint pressed in without a problem using the tool from advance but it didn't appear to me the uppers were pressed in but I could be wrong. The uppers are rusted in pretty bad to the point where it looks like its all one piece.
#5
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Here's the text straight out of the SM for the 4WD front suspension:
UPPER BALL STUD
INSPECTION
(1) Position a floor jack under the lower suspension
arm. Raise the wheel and tire so it lightly contact the
floor (vehicle weight relieved from the tire).
(2) Grasp the top of the tire and apply force in and
out. Look for any movement at the ball joints between
the upper suspension arm and steering
knuckle.
(3) If any lateral movement is evident, replace the
ball joint.
REMOVAL
(1) Place a jack under outer end of lower suspension
arm. Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire.
(3) Remove cotter pin and nut from upper ball
stud.
(4) Position Ball Stud Remover C-3564-A. Rotate
threaded portion of tool to apply force to the upper
ball stud.
(5) Strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer
to loosen ball stud from knuckle. Do not force ball
stud out from knuckle with the tool.
(6) Remove ball stud seal.
(7) Use Removal/ Installation Tool C-3561 to unthread
ball stud from suspension arm.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thread new ball stud in with Tool C-3561.
Tighten ball stud to 170 Nzm (125 ft. lbs.) torque. The
gap between ball stud Hex and suspension arm bore
is 0.25 to 1.25mm (0.01 to 0.05 inch).
(2) Install new seal over ball stud. Make sure seal
securely locked in-place.
(3) Position steering knuckle on upper ball stud.
Tighten the upper ball stud nut to 142 Nzm (105 ft.
lbs.) torque. Install a new cotter pin.
(4) Install the wheel and tire.
Soo...I'd go with the threaded uppers and pressed lowers. And I did mine not too long ago, you'd think I'd remember something like that but, then again I'm still arguing which way the fan nut spins, regular or reverse threaded...
UPPER BALL STUD
INSPECTION
(1) Position a floor jack under the lower suspension
arm. Raise the wheel and tire so it lightly contact the
floor (vehicle weight relieved from the tire).
(2) Grasp the top of the tire and apply force in and
out. Look for any movement at the ball joints between
the upper suspension arm and steering
knuckle.
(3) If any lateral movement is evident, replace the
ball joint.
REMOVAL
(1) Place a jack under outer end of lower suspension
arm. Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire.
(3) Remove cotter pin and nut from upper ball
stud.
(4) Position Ball Stud Remover C-3564-A. Rotate
threaded portion of tool to apply force to the upper
ball stud.
(5) Strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer
to loosen ball stud from knuckle. Do not force ball
stud out from knuckle with the tool.
(6) Remove ball stud seal.
(7) Use Removal/ Installation Tool C-3561 to unthread
ball stud from suspension arm.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thread new ball stud in with Tool C-3561.
Tighten ball stud to 170 Nzm (125 ft. lbs.) torque. The
gap between ball stud Hex and suspension arm bore
is 0.25 to 1.25mm (0.01 to 0.05 inch).
(2) Install new seal over ball stud. Make sure seal
securely locked in-place.
(3) Position steering knuckle on upper ball stud.
Tighten the upper ball stud nut to 142 Nzm (105 ft.
lbs.) torque. Install a new cotter pin.
(4) Install the wheel and tire.
Soo...I'd go with the threaded uppers and pressed lowers. And I did mine not too long ago, you'd think I'd remember something like that but, then again I'm still arguing which way the fan nut spins, regular or reverse threaded...
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