few quick questions?
#11
03-24-2010, 12:19 PM
Yeah, its not a complicated system, but I still say that if the clutch is not disengaging, that you have not actually bled the system and there is air in the lines.
What I did to bleed the system (cause I took it apart when I was doing the swap without realizing there was no bleed screw) is this...
... and mine has been working fine for the past year.
What I did to bleed the system (cause I took it apart when I was doing the swap without realizing there was no bleed screw) is this...
First, pull the pin that holds the hydraulic line to the master cylinder and seperate them. Next, take a small diameter hose (like a chainsaw fuel line or something similar) and slide it over the end of the fitting on the master cylinder end of the line. Stick the other end of the hose into a bottle of brake fluid. Now make sure the bottle of fluid is the lowest point of the contraption, and the master cylinder end of the line is the highest, with the slave cylinder in between two points and the line somewhat taught. This will let the air rise to the top (which is the end of the hydraulic line) and the fluid will rest on the bottom (in the slave cylinder). Now, slowly pump the slave cylinder until you stop seeing air bubbles in the brake fluid bottle... and make sure that the hose never comes out of the bottle. When the air bubbles have stopped, carefully put the line back into the master cylinder and pin it back in place. Important: while you are putting the line back in, have someone dump brake fluid in the resevior so it pours out the master cylinder. This will help keep the air getting in the system to a minimum. Now, there will be a little air that gets in at the top that still needs to come out, so pump the slave cylinder slowly a couple more times until the air bubbles stop coming out of the resevior (make sure while you are doing this that the resevoir stays full of fluid!). When the bubbles stop, top off the resevoir, put the cap back on and your done.
#12
03-24-2010, 06:47 PM
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the back of the pressure plate has 'FINGERS' on it, if they overheat they loose there tension and you have your problem. you have to replace the entire pressure plate to solve the problem.
if you do that then replace the clutch plate also as a kit (check "things i should have done" thread). there is also a pilot bearing located in the center of the flywheel for the input shaft. nobody does it but it takes 5 minutes and costs 5 bucks, it supports the input shaft on the tranny to the engine. you got it apart might as well do it.
if you do that then replace the clutch plate also as a kit (check "things i should have done" thread). there is also a pilot bearing located in the center of the flywheel for the input shaft. nobody does it but it takes 5 minutes and costs 5 bucks, it supports the input shaft on the tranny to the engine. you got it apart might as well do it.
#13
03-24-2010, 06:58 PM
Yeah, Mazda has a point. Unless you got a new clutch kit while you were doing the swap, the pressure plate could be just as likely to be worn out, but I still think its a hydraulic issue only because you took it apart.
But to add one thing to what Mazda said, most any clutch "kit" will come with both the pilot and throwout bearings, both of which should be replaced at that time.
But to add one thing to what Mazda said, most any clutch "kit" will come with both the pilot and throwout bearings, both of which should be replaced at that time.
#14
03-24-2010, 08:25 PM
yeah its a brand new clutch kit. i pulled the clutch line out and when i was putting it back in i hooked the reservoir line back up and while i was under the truck i pumped the slave cylinder till the bubbles stopped....im thinking the clip broke on the to bearing pivot arm. which if it did would suck very much cause i just came down with the flu and it is supposed to be really windy tomorrow....
#15
03-24-2010, 08:43 PM
Oooh, I didn't think about that! Yeah, if the pressure plate is new and you are sure the hydraulic system was bled (and if you stopped seeing air bubbles I suppose it was properly bled), then that clip falling out could definately do it!
#16
03-24-2010, 08:56 PM
when i was getting the manual trans ready to be put in i couldn't find the clip...and since the all the auto shops were closed at the time i went to a hardware store and picked up a galvanized cotter pin(unbent one) i bent it into a shape so it would fit around it and there was little play in it(almost none). i even tasted it a few times to make sure it was nice and tight and it seem to work...