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Code 27, Bad Idle

Old May 1, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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Default Code 27, Bad Idle

Hey guys, first I have to thank you all for your posts on these forums - it's helped me troubleshoot a large number of other things.

I've got a 1993 Dodge Ram 5.2 V8 automatic, and check engine light has been going on and off ever since I bought it in November. For the past couple weeks, it's stayed on and shows Code 27. Usually the check engine light would turn on right as I'm driving off the highway - when I'm slowing down. The truck would also idle badly. Not squeaky, just rough.

I noticed another symptom is when I hit about half a tank of gas. Could it be my fuel pump is going out? These days, it idles rough even with a full tank of gas.

Thanks for any help from Sam in North Carolina!
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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I don't thimk it's the pump Code 27 is injector #4 is not working proper, that would be rough idle, I'd try replacing inj. 4 not hard remove connector abd clip pull out
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 12:42 AM
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Code 27 can be any of the 8 injectors... it does not mean injector #4.

I would start by trying to run some injector cleaner in the gas for a tank or two and see what happens. If nothing changes, then you have one or more bad injectors.

Copied from the '95 FSM...
FUEL INJECTOR TEST

Disconnect the fuel injector wire harness connector from the injector (Fig. 26). Place an ohmmeter across the injector terminals. Resistance reading should be approximately 14.5 ohms 61.2 ohms at 20°C (68°F). Proceed to following Injector Diagnosis chart. When performing the following tests from the chart, do not leave electrical current applied to the injector for longer than five seconds. Damage to injector coil or internal injector seals could result.
You can download the '95 FSM from the faq page at the top of this section (in the stickied threads) for more testing and diagnostic information.

But it also sounds like you may have a fuel pump issue from what you said was happening before. You should get a gauge and test the fuel pressure at the rails.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; May 1, 2010 at 12:48 AM.
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Old May 1, 2010 | 01:08 AM
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My hanes says code 27 inj, # 4 Just looked again your right code 27 lists all inj, #'s just seprate, Same code with 8 possiable problems now figure out which cyl, missing Sorry
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Ok, it was suggested to me about a week ago to run fuel injector cleaner through. I've only had one tank refill since, so I'll wait for the next refill.

I've noticed my gas mileage dropped a couple miles - that normal in this situation? I'm guessing it's also entirely possible that several injectors could be bad, not just one.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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Just saw the second part of your post, 95_318. I'm not sure how to test the pressure at the rails - what are the rails?

As a kicker, my fuel gauge doesn't ever work.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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I had to deal with a code 27 as well. In my case it was a wiring problem and not the injector. The fact that your engine light goes on and off would mean it’s an intermittent problem; a fuel injector that doesn’t cycle throws the code right away. The check engine light also goes off pretty quick when the injector starts working.
If you don’t have an ohm meter i’d suggest waiting till your engine light is on at an idle and pull the fuel injector connectors one at a time while listening for a change in idle. When you find the one that doesn’t change your idle that should be your problem. Swap the injector’s position with one that’s working (put new orings on when you swap them). If your problem moves with the injector – get a new one. If the good injector stops working check for a wiring/ connector problem.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sammatthews2007
Just saw the second part of your post, 95_318. I'm not sure how to test the pressure at the rails - what are the rails?

As a kicker, my fuel gauge doesn't ever work.
The fuel rails line both sides of the intake manifold and the injectors are connected to them. On the driver's side rail, there is a valve to put on pressure gauge (you need a 0-60 psi gauge). With the truck at idle, place several rags under the valve to soak up any fuel that spills out and connect the gauge. The reading should be between 35 and 45 psi.

As for the gauge not working, there is a write up in faq about a common cause of that.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Sometimes my truck bogs down for a second and sometimes you can hear my exhaust note fluctuate noticably (I know that could just be the flow through my exhaust system, I'm just sayin cause it kinda goes together), could a bad injector do that or could it just be that my EGR valve isnt good?
 

Last edited by melodytoinvent; May 24, 2010 at 07:57 PM.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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Thanks all for the help. I had a guy look at it, and it looks like the previous owner took out the carburetor and replaced it (poorly) with a straightpipe. That may have taken out a couple air sensors, and would explain the code 27. Right?
 
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