1994 dodge dakota Overdrive Issues please help
So according to those two diagrams, here is what you should have...
In pin 1 of the switch connector, you should have a black wire. This is a ground wire for the switch.
In pin 2, you should have a black and orange wire. This wire goes to pin 37 of the PCM and offers a ground for the lamp when the switch is closed.
In pin 3, you have an orange and white wire that goes to pin 10 of the PCM. This wire provides the OD signal when the switch is closed.
In pin 4 you have two wires... both dark blue and white. One comes into the switch from fuse 16 and the other comes out of the switch to something else that is powered by fuse 16 (unimportant).
Pin 5 is empty.
In pin 6, there is an orange wire that runs the illumination lamp for when the headlights are on. (the ground in pin 1 is for this)
In pin 1 of the switch connector, you should have a black wire. This is a ground wire for the switch.
In pin 2, you should have a black and orange wire. This wire goes to pin 37 of the PCM and offers a ground for the lamp when the switch is closed.
In pin 3, you have an orange and white wire that goes to pin 10 of the PCM. This wire provides the OD signal when the switch is closed.
In pin 4 you have two wires... both dark blue and white. One comes into the switch from fuse 16 and the other comes out of the switch to something else that is powered by fuse 16 (unimportant).
Pin 5 is empty.
In pin 6, there is an orange wire that runs the illumination lamp for when the headlights are on. (the ground in pin 1 is for this)
So here are the tests I now think should give you useful info (again... forget everything thats been said up a couple posts ago!)
Put the red prong of the multimeter on the output to fuse 16. Put the black prong in cavity 2 of the switch and check activity on both DC volts and ohms with the switch open and closed.
Next, do the same thing for cavity 3 of the switch.
Put the red prong of the multimeter on the output to fuse 16. Put the black prong in cavity 2 of the switch and check activity on both DC volts and ohms with the switch open and closed.
Next, do the same thing for cavity 3 of the switch.
DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD I have no clue how I missed this but it may be the key to my success... I have two wires small clips ... One is blue with white line and one is brownish They appear to be close to the proximity of the fuse panel..Here is the kicker... I assumed that they were ground wires...the blue one I went to clip it (its the kind of pastic end looks female ) I put that wire on a ground and LOW and behold the fuse to the O/D 5 amp fuse blew... If this wire doesnt go to the switcH I will be surprised... Maybe you can help me if I give you a picture? Ill go take a picture of it and report back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OH WAIT nevermind you just explained thats the unimportant wire I just found LOL sorry man let me do these tests and ill be right back.
OH WAIT nevermind you just explained thats the unimportant wire I just found LOL sorry man let me do these tests and ill be right back.
Last edited by Justgotmy1stdakota; May 10, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD I have no clue how I missed this but it may be the key to my success... I have two wires small clips ... One is blue with white line and one is brownish They appear to be close to the proximity of the fuse panel..Here is the kicker... I assumed that they were ground wires...the blue one I went to clip it (its the kind of pastic end looks female ) I put that wire on a ground and LOW and behold the fuse to the O/D 5 amp fuse blew... If this wire doesnt go to the switcH I will be surprised... Maybe you can help me if I give you a picture? Ill go take a picture of it and report back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OH WAIT nevermind you just explained thats the unimportant wire I just found LOL sorry man let me do these tests and ill be right back.
OH WAIT nevermind you just explained thats the unimportant wire I just found LOL sorry man let me do these tests and ill be right back.
SO here is the readings coming out of the fuse box (power side) of the fuse.
Pin 1 Not tested
Pin 2 Black orange 11.89
Pin 3 Orange White 3.00
Pin 4 blue 11.80
Pin 5 - empty
Pin 6- not tested
whatcha think? Oh shoot ill add a edit with the switch open or closed... this is 1 test ill go press the button and try again.
Ok pushing the button did no difference.. Also turning the key to the truck off I didnt get any readings. As far as ohms I dont know how to test those just yet..If you elaborate I could real quick
Also I want to say one thing.. The output bay is the one that gets power out yes? meaning one bay is ground other is power or is it the other way around?? Last thing... Remember you said bay 1 is ground solid black.. ??? My black wire in the switch is showing power 11.80 this should be ground and show nothing or .01 not power yes? is it possible somehow the wiring got screwed up and this switch is not grounded now?? please advise..
I am positive based on the info u gave me that switch's ground has power and is not grounded
brb
Last edited by Justgotmy1stdakota; May 10, 2010 at 09:53 PM.
IIRC from back when my truck had an automatic transmission, the switch would somehow reset itself when the truck was turned off and back on. I don't really know how the switch works, so I don't know how it does that, but I believe that is what happened.
So with that said, did you press the button after the truck was turned on? Cause that would make a difference.
I think the readings for cavities 2 and 3 should both change if the switch is working properly.
And ohms is a unit of resistance. Its the continuity test.
If you want to bypass the switch to see if your overdrive works, I think you can do this...
Cut the blue/white input wire coming from the fusebox and the orange and white wire going to cavity 10 and twist them together. Then go drive the truck.
So with that said, did you press the button after the truck was turned on? Cause that would make a difference.
I think the readings for cavities 2 and 3 should both change if the switch is working properly.
And ohms is a unit of resistance. Its the continuity test.
If you want to bypass the switch to see if your overdrive works, I think you can do this...
Cut the blue/white input wire coming from the fusebox and the orange and white wire going to cavity 10 and twist them together. Then go drive the truck.
SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN I have to finish building a deck in the morning but when I get done and I get home this is the first thing I am gonna try LOL
Also is it right for the black ground to get power? Yes I pressed the button but none of the readings changed.. I believe I may of forgot to do the cont. test but can do it tomorrow...But for now I will def bypass the switch... I would love to have my 4th gear...
So yeah tell me what u think about the ground showing power..you think the kid crossed the ground somewhere with power?
Also is it right for the black ground to get power? Yes I pressed the button but none of the readings changed.. I believe I may of forgot to do the cont. test but can do it tomorrow...But for now I will def bypass the switch... I would love to have my 4th gear...
So yeah tell me what u think about the ground showing power..you think the kid crossed the ground somewhere with power?
Dc 20 red probe to the fuse panel and black to the ground wire. If looking at the fuse box from underneath the red probe was in the fuse 16 spot farthest away from me the other spot the fuse goes closest to me was giving out no readings so I assumed it was the correct place to put the probe



