Hi all,

First let me say hallo, I'm new to the forum and just recently purchased a '96 Dodge Dakota Extended Cab.

All in all i am quite happy with the truck. It needs some work as all used vehicles do. I started today with small things like air filter and some new wiper blades. I had to put 2 different tires on the front as the ones that were on it were splitting. I plan to do an oil change tomorrow because the stuff in there right now is ROUGH and i want to do plugs and wires since im sure its been some time since those were replaced.

There is one main thing that is kind of wearing on me right now and making me concerned however. I have noticed that when the vehicle approaches about 20-25 MPH there is a whining-like noise. the sound stays on and continues to go higher as the speed of the truck increases. I have noticed it is NOT related to engine RPM as when the trans shifts gears and the rpms on the engine drop it goes down. I also do not suspect it to be tire noise or anything either because when i let off the accelerator the noise stops. As soon as i step back on at any speed above 25 or so it is right back on. It is peculiar and i want to find out what it is before any form of damage happens.

Also the other thing that just started today (i just got it plated and insured today) is the truck shut off on me twice. both times this happened after i put it in park, it sorta puttered and then shut off. I do know the previous owner said the Neutral Safety Switch needed replacement. Does this seem like it could be related?

The truck itself as far as body goes is in nice condition for being a 96 and a michigan vehicle. I am actually happy with the V8 Magnum even tho i will feel it more at the pump this truck has get up and go. I have yet to run it WOT because of the concerns i have but look forward to when i do get the chance to do so.

the engine seems to run a little rough and i can feel a bit of a shudder, but i think a good place to start with that will be plugs and wires, also thinking i should check the fuel filter out since the vehicle does have 165K on it.

Alright, well that about wraps it up. I'm glad to be a member of the Dodge community now and I'm glad I found the forum. Below are 4 videos i made of the sound i am experiencing in hopes it will help with identifying whats going on.

Whew, sorry for the long post! Thanks!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmfbbaid48U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCeFKQLw90c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpLCqdpksNM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUvBkPmjjwc

 

Welcome to DodgeForum!!

The stalling problem is likely due to the IAC (idle air controller). These are notorious for freezing up on these engines. Its located at the back of the throttle body and is held in my 2 torx bolts. All you need to do to replace it is unplug and unbolt the old one and bolt in an plug in the new one. Then be sure to reset the computer by leaving it unplugged for 15-20 minutes. The idle will be odd while the computer learns the new IAC.

The noise is probably either a bad pinion bearing in the rear axle or gear noise in the rear axle. Do either of these descriptions sounds like your problem?

 

Hi thanks for the welcome!


Thanks for the info on the IAC. Also thank you A LOT for the info you sent me on the noise i am hearing. I feel that both of those symptoms you posted seem like they would apply. I am an aspiring mechanic so i am still learning things but i felt it had something potentially to do with the rear end and/or drive shaft. I feel that the info you supplied confirms my suspicions. My only issue is figuring out what to do next! lol.

I have access to a chilton library thru the local Community College. Do you have any recommendations for me by chance?

Thanks a lot for the info and suggestions!

 

My suggestions are first inspect all the u-joints to make sure they aren't contributing to the noise. If they all look fine, check junkyards for a new rear axle. You should be able to find one for a fraction of the price it would take to rebuild yours (unless you can rebuild yours yourself so you don't have to pay for labor).

We have a rapidshare download link in the faq thread (in the stickies at the top of this section) for the factory service manuals for a couple different years. The factory service manual will be a lot better than any shop manual for a major repair like rebuilding the rear axle.

 

hey thanks again for the info. I think starting by checking the U-Joint is a good plan. what specifically should i look for in the u joint? i assume any play is a sign of potential issues?

What are the potential issues with driving a vehicle with this type of issue? I assume long term would be failure of the parts and such. I have a second car as this truck is my project/work vehicle but the person i bought it from i am sure was running it like this for a bit of time.


Thanks again!

 

Simple check for U-joints is to get under the truck when it is cold and grab the driveshaft right next to the U-joints...twist the shaft back and forth, shouldn't have much play/slop in it. Raise both rear wheels off the ground on jack stands. Lay under the truck so you can look down the driveshaft...have a bud spin the wheels with the tranny in N...watch the driveshaft turn...if it's bent, it will be noticeable. Also check the fluid in the differential...pop the rubber plug out on the back of the pumpkin and stick a finger in there. There should be fluid in on your finger when you pull it out...if not, you need some fluid. If there is fluid on your finger, smell it...does it smell skunky? It should...hypoid oil has a smell all its own.
Ujoints, driveshaft and differential and tranny fluid are all good things to check when you get an old used truck. Common wear spots that are often overlooked or just neglected. Never run the truck with power to the wheels when you are under there checking things out. I always get my Ujoints from a driveline/driveshaft shop, they can get the best brands and should install a grease zerk for you if you ask...costs a little more but it's worth it. Post back with what you find out.

 

tmac,

thanks! I will get under this afternoon and take a peek. I did check trans fluid and that looks legit. red in color no burned smell. I just went thru an S10 that the trans blew on me after 2 weeks, sold it and used the $$$ to buy this guy :-D.

I will check the U joint and get back to you about what i find. Thanks!

 

I decided to just pop under there right quick and check it all out. I grabbed the driveshaft right near the u-joint and gave it hell and not loose at all. no up/down play nor left/right play. I looked at the rear differential and there appears to be an oil leak. i witnessed small drippings and sludgy residue on it from the rubber fill plug and down to the bottom of the rear diff. I made a quick video showing my finding.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38MUnLavZXw

Thanks!

 

Okay, well at the very least you need a new differential plug...that one is toast. Good news is they cost less than $10 from your Mopar dealer. Larger question is...is it leaking from an old worn out plug or is the gasket on the rear cover shot? and, did the previous owners run it dry? Pull the old plug and check for lube by poking your finger in there. I use my little finger up to the second joint and reach down, the pull back out. You should find some hypoid oil on your finger...if not, your whining sound could be a low fluid situation...easily correctable. Now if you're into wrenching, it's not that hard to pull the back cover on the pumpkin, replace the gasket, seal it back up, put in new hypoid oil and a new plug. Couple of hours of work and you'll get really greasy but it's worth it. Best way to install new fluid is those little hand pumps from an auto parts store or Wallyworld...they screw onto the top of the oil bottle and then you pump the top and up and down...same type you use for putting hypoid oil in the lower unit/gearcase of an outboard motor. Worse case scenario is you just live with it until the diff is trashed...the PO of my old truck did this and I had to replace the whole rear end for about $650...$500 for the differential from a boneyard and $150 labor to pull the old one and replace it. That sucked.

 

Just watched your vids where you can hear the sound/whining. That's what my truck sounded like with the old, thrashed differential. Hope yours isn't. Check for hypoid oil and post back.