electric fans
#1
#4
#6
Relay
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...ST%2040%20AMP/
Contactor/Solenoid
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...20DUTY%20SPST/
Wiring is pretty easy
RELAY WIRING
Fused 12V+ (from Battery) to Pin 30
Ground (from Battery) to Pin 85
Coil (12v+ from switch) to Pin 86
Load (12v+ to fans) to pin 87
Solenoid Wiring
Fused 12V+ (from Battery) to either of the large studs
Ground (from Battery) to either of the small studs
Coil (12v+ from switch) to the other small stud
Load (12v+ to fans) to the other large stud
I usually use the 12v ignition wire going to the radio to provide power to the switch in the cab as it's easily accessible and is usually already spliced and adding another wire is easy. Out of the 2 above I would use a contactor as 1. it's rated for a higher continuous load and 2. You'll pretty much never have to worry about replacing it as the interior is larger and more suited for the task.
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...ST%2040%20AMP/
Contactor/Solenoid
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...20DUTY%20SPST/
Wiring is pretty easy
RELAY WIRING
Fused 12V+ (from Battery) to Pin 30
Ground (from Battery) to Pin 85
Coil (12v+ from switch) to Pin 86
Load (12v+ to fans) to pin 87
Solenoid Wiring
Fused 12V+ (from Battery) to either of the large studs
Ground (from Battery) to either of the small studs
Coil (12v+ from switch) to the other small stud
Load (12v+ to fans) to the other large stud
I usually use the 12v ignition wire going to the radio to provide power to the switch in the cab as it's easily accessible and is usually already spliced and adding another wire is easy. Out of the 2 above I would use a contactor as 1. it's rated for a higher continuous load and 2. You'll pretty much never have to worry about replacing it as the interior is larger and more suited for the task.
#7
If you haven't check out these articles that are in the FAQ2.
Here are a few articles
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...ods/index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/4572/index.html
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...all/index.html
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/11879/index.html
Here are a few articles
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...ods/index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/4572/index.html
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...all/index.html
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/11879/index.html
Trending Topics
#9
I’m running an electric fan off a V8 ford Lincoln. It’s referred to as a Mark V111 electric fan. The shroud fits the radiator really well but it pulls a lot of amps. It draws about 100 amps at startup and about 30-40 amps when running if I’m remembering it right. I wired it with a Hayden adjustable fan controller that’s activated based on coolant temperature. I mounted the sensor in the passenger side block drain hole. It’s also wired to kick in when you turn the AC on. I wanted something that would run the fan automatically. It seems to cycle the fan on and off real well. The controller’s main power source is any ignition switched 12v source. I’m not sure which wire I ended up splicing into, I just took a probe and started testing wires in the wiring harness until I found one that was switched and spliced into that.
The controller was around $25.00 but can’t run the fan directly; I blew 3 fuses trying (the controllers only rated at 20 amps). I bought a 40 amp relay from radio shack for about $7.00 and the controller activates the relay which supplies power to the fan. The relay is wired directly to the battery and handles the momentary amp surge for startup OK.
The controller was around $25.00 but can’t run the fan directly; I blew 3 fuses trying (the controllers only rated at 20 amps). I bought a 40 amp relay from radio shack for about $7.00 and the controller activates the relay which supplies power to the fan. The relay is wired directly to the battery and handles the momentary amp surge for startup OK.