95 2.5 will NOT start
#1
07-04-2010, 12:52 AM
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95 2.5 will NOT start
New to this forum...hope someone can help.
I bought a 95 Dakota with the 2.5 ltr 4cy.
I was leaking coolant in the oil. So I decided to tackle it myself.
Teardown was fun. Had the head fixed. Put it all back together.
It cranks over, but will not start. I smell gas, so it's getting gas, I pulled a spark plug wire, to check for spark, it's getting spark.
I set the timing gears per the www.alldata.com website I subscribed to. It just seems like my timing is still off.
Could someone PLEASE help?????
Also, it appears that the timing belt walks forward a little bit during cranking. So part of the belt is not even on the top gear.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hutch
I bought a 95 Dakota with the 2.5 ltr 4cy.
I was leaking coolant in the oil. So I decided to tackle it myself.
Teardown was fun. Had the head fixed. Put it all back together.
It cranks over, but will not start. I smell gas, so it's getting gas, I pulled a spark plug wire, to check for spark, it's getting spark.
I set the timing gears per the www.alldata.com website I subscribed to. It just seems like my timing is still off.
Could someone PLEASE help?????
Also, it appears that the timing belt walks forward a little bit during cranking. So part of the belt is not even on the top gear.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hutch
#3
07-04-2010, 01:16 AM
Record Breaker
#5
07-04-2010, 01:07 PM
Record Breaker
on the distributor there is a flat part on one side. loosen the bolt holding down the dist. and turn the distibutor till the flat side is parallel to the side of the block. once this is done the truck should start, but it will run poorly, the next step after this would be to loosen the bolt again but not as much as before and turn the distributor while the truck is running to where you think it would be running the smoothest, then take a timing light and check the timing. don't worry about blowing the motor, it is a non-interference motor so the worst case scenario would be a bad idle.
if you know anyone who has a fsm or chilton/haynes manual for any dodge car with a 2.5l or 2.2l motor that shows the timing setup, it would be really handy.
this might help a lot... http://www.turbododge.info/ there is a section the timing belt re-install that will help. i used it on my little 4cyl daytona a while back and it helped greatly
if you know anyone who has a fsm or chilton/haynes manual for any dodge car with a 2.5l or 2.2l motor that shows the timing setup, it would be really handy.
this might help a lot... http://www.turbododge.info/ there is a section the timing belt re-install that will help. i used it on my little 4cyl daytona a while back and it helped greatly
Last edited by shadowthedakota; 07-04-2010 at 01:11 PM.
#6
07-04-2010, 01:49 PM
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That doesn't mean you have compression. Rent a compression tester and check all four cylinders. I am speaking from experience, I did a headgasket on one of my old cars several months ago, got it all put back together, and the stupid thing would not start for everything I tried. Finally rented a compression tester and it turned out the head was warped slightly between cyl 2 & 3 so there were not getting any compression at all. Hence why it wasn't starting. I had to take it all back apart and have the head machined.
#7
07-04-2010, 06:23 PM
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luthoro
I had the head machined while I had it off. It was ever so slightly warped.
shadowthedakota
I never took the distributor off during this entire process. Should that of changed? Also, when you say turn the distributor, do you mean the cap where the plugs are in? Or is there something to turn once I take the cap off?
Please help...
Thanks,
Mark
I had the head machined while I had it off. It was ever so slightly warped.
shadowthedakota
I never took the distributor off during this entire process. Should that of changed? Also, when you say turn the distributor, do you mean the cap where the plugs are in? Or is there something to turn once I take the cap off?
Please help...
Thanks,
Mark
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#8
07-05-2010, 02:02 AM
Record Breaker
yes it does affect it. what i meant by turning the dist was to loosen the bolt on teh arm hold the entire distributor down and turn it so that the flat side is parallel to the block, not the cap its in that link that i posted. since the 4cyl dakotas have the same motor as the daytonas, spirits, etc...
even if you had the head machined it would still be better to check compression anyway. not having compression will also make the motor not run but having bad compression will cause the motor to run very horribly. my neighbor had that issue after he rebuilt his lamanze motor. the teacher told him he didn't need new rings and when he got the motor back togethor it ran horribly and had 8psi of comprssion in each cylinder.
even if you had the head machined it would still be better to check compression anyway. not having compression will also make the motor not run but having bad compression will cause the motor to run very horribly. my neighbor had that issue after he rebuilt his lamanze motor. the teacher told him he didn't need new rings and when he got the motor back togethor it ran horribly and had 8psi of comprssion in each cylinder.
here it is right off the site""
STEP ONE: Get the cam sprocket where it needs to be. The little whole should be pointing upward, and the two arrows should be aligned with the seam on the cam cap. Obviously I took this picture after the belt was back on. Pay no attention to that minor detail.
STEP TWO: Rotate the crankshaft to top dead center. Don't worry, our motors are non interference, you won't bend any valves. Make sure you have TDC by shining a light down the sparkplug hole on cylinder
STEP THREE: Remove the 13mm bolt that holds the distributor still, along with the bracket it holds down. Remove the cap from the distributor so you can see the rotor. Now pull the distributor out of the block. Look down the hole and you'll see a slot in there, using a large screwdriver (make sure the timing belt is nice and slack) rotate that slot to be parallel to to front of the block.
(since its is a truck the technical front side of the motor will be the left side of the motor, this tutorial was written for the 4cyl cars)
(since its is a truck the technical front side of the motor will be the left side of the motor, this tutorial was written for the 4cyl cars)
STEP FOUR: You can now re-install your timing belt. Make sure the three items you already aligned remain aligned while you install the belt. Make sure your tensioner is loose before you try to put the belt on. Once it's up on all 3 pulleys, tighten up your tensioner. How tight? I try to get it so it's got no slop, but also no tension, you don't want to be trying to stretch the belt at all, you also want it tight enough that it's not going to jump a tooth. So get it somewhere in between those two extremes. If you see it flapping a little with the engine running, it's probably just right.
STEP FIVE: Point the rotor on your distributor towards the 10 o'clock position and re-install. You'll probably have to wiggle the rotor a little as you insert it to get the distributor drive to drop into the slot. The slot is perfectly centered, so you don't have to worry about having that 180degrees out. Once the distributor is in, re-install the holdown assembly, and position the flat side of the distributor parallel to the block. That's all there is to it, re-install the cap, put the spark plug back in cylinder 1 if you had to remove it and put the plug wire back on it. Make sure the two pickup wires coming off the distributor are plugged in. With the flat side of the distributor parallel to the block like this, your timing will be very very close. You'll have no problem firing up your engine. Make sure you check the ignition timing before you drive your car though, as it's not perfect.""
if you don't reset the dist, then the timing will be way to far off for the pcm.
if you don't reset the dist, then the timing will be way to far off for the pcm.
Last edited by shadowthedakota; 07-05-2010 at 02:06 AM.
#9
07-05-2010, 11:06 PM
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#10
07-06-2010, 10:43 PM
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Okay, went to my truck today and tried the best I can with no luck. I still think I have the timing wrong.
Step 3: when it states to get the rotor parallel to to front of the block. So basically it's going to be pointed front to back?? Also, how do I know which way..as in there is two possible ways to be parallel one being 180 degrees different from the other but both still parallel
Step 5: Set it to 10 o'clock. Whats 6 and 12? Need to know this inorder to set it at 10.
Any help..please.....
Thanks,
Hutch
Step 3: when it states to get the rotor parallel to to front of the block. So basically it's going to be pointed front to back?? Also, how do I know which way..as in there is two possible ways to be parallel one being 180 degrees different from the other but both still parallel
Step 5: Set it to 10 o'clock. Whats 6 and 12? Need to know this inorder to set it at 10.
Any help..please.....
Thanks,
Hutch