I have a 1995 Dakota 3.9L/Auto 4X4 and while driving it just quits for no apparent reason, I've changed:

1. EGR
2. Rotor button
3. distributor cap
4. plugs (Champion #71 gapped to .035")
5. coil
6. breather filter
7. PCV valve
8. air cleaner

And still it does it, I'm also getting a code 32 which refers to the EGR, but it's new.

I LOVE my truck and really want to fix it myself, being a female I've gotten laughed at from many when I told them that I wanted to fix it myself, all they said was they get ex-amount of money an hour and that I should just let them fix it.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Merrie

 

Welcome to DodgeForum!

You said it just quits while driving... is this while cruising down the road or while coming to a stop? Also, has it ever failed to start?

If the problem only happens while coming to a stop or sitting still, I'd replace the IAC (idle air controller). The IAC is notorious for freezing up on these engines, and when it doesn, the computer has no control over the idle. If the valve freezes in a closed position, it chokes the engine when you let off the gas pedal.

If the problem happens while crusing, it could be a lot of things... from a bad fuel pump, to a bad sensor, to the notorious power splice under the PDC. The other things you already covered.

If it were me trying to solve the problem, I'd start by looking at the splice that powers the ASD (auto-shut down) and fuel pump relays. Its located under the power distribution center (black box next to the battery). Just start unwrapping the wire insulation and looking for a corroded splice. If you find one, cut it, clean the wires, and re-solder it.

If that doesn't turn out to be the problem, I'd check the pressure at the fuel rails. There is a schrader valve on the driver's side of the fuel rail that you can hook a gauge to. Then turn the key to the on position and read off the pressure. It should be around 40 psi.

If the fuel pressure is fine, I'd start testing sensors in this order...

Crankshaft position sensor
Camshaft position sensor
MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor
TPS (throttle position sensor)
IAT (intake air temperature) sensor
o2 sensor

For more information on testing the sensors, refer to the factory service manual available on the faq page.

 

I'm sorry 95_318SLT, I tried to be as precise as possible. But with my truck having me frustrated I forgot to mention when it was happening... while driving down the road and coming to a stop it does it. Just yesterday I was driving at 55 mph when it was like someone just reached over and turned the key to the off position, but it done it for a mere second then caught it self, then when I pulled up to a red light it just quit, it always starts right back up though (so far that is).
Now everyone is telling me to sell it and buy a foreign vehicle and I don't want to get rid of my truck for nothing, and want to fix it (put the parts in) myself! I can't really afford to have my truck down for to long and this is really starting to stress me.

Thanks again for helping me with my dilemma.

 

most likely the iac froze up like 95 said,

 

also could check grounds. happend in my neon

 

Sounds like the Crank position sensor to me. I had an old Cherokee that did the same thing your describing.

 

No need to apologize! But the more info we get the better we can pinpoint our answers.

From what you said here, I am going to say you definately need an IAC. This valve is located at the back of the throttle body and is held in by 2 torx bolts. Its an easy 5 minute job to swap it if you have a set of torx bits. Be sure to reset the computer by unplugging the battery for 15-20 minutes after you replace it so that the computer can forget the old IAC and learn the new one.

But that only solves the problem with stalling while coming from a stop. I still stand by my first answer for stalling while driving down the road. It could be so many possibilities! I'm going to go ahead and take back the fuel pump one. If there were a problem with the fuel pump, there would be many more symptoms. But if there is a dead spot in your TPS, it could cause erratic problems like you're having. Or if the CPS were starting to die on you, it would cause random stalling. It could still be the notorious ASD/FP relay power splice problem. Like I said before, just start testing sensors using the procedure listed in the factory service manual available for download in FAQ. If you need help finding the pages in question after you've downloaded the manual, let me know, cause I've looked at it so many times I could just about be a human index for it!! :P

 

Thanks everyone for the info and help!!!
95_318SLT, I'll try looking for the corroded wires first before I spend any more cash, I couldn't get the factory service manual for some reason, I couldn't even view it for that matter.
Well if I can't get it fixed I have axcess to a plasma cutter and a welder, maybe I could make a lawn ornemant or something out of it. Just kidding I really need to get this fixed before to long, right now I'm being charged $20 a day for a ride to work thats just 5 miles from where I live, steep I know but I can't afford not to go to work either.

Thanks again everyone.

 

A bicycle is free and will get you to work in about 30 minutes at an easy pace. Just kiddin...hope you solve your Dak problem soon.

 

Did you click on this link?

http://rapidshare.com/files/31723895...ICE_Manual.ZIP

You need to download the .zip file, extract the file with WinZip or WinRAR. Then you need Adobe Acrobat to open and view the pages.

You should be able to fine WinZip or WinRAR and Adobe Acrobat on download.com for free.