This weekend started out pretty good. I began to do the front brakes on my truck and discovered I needed a new caliper and both rotors. Not bad.....yet. In my infinite wisdom I figured, "as long as I have it apart this far, I might as well do the front shocks. I've been putting it off for over a year and it's a beautiful day to work outside..." What the hell was I thinking! I sprayed up the shock bolt with almost an entire can of PB Blaster and some penetrating fluid that Mopar puts out that is incredible stuff. I put my impact wrench on it and it looked like it was beginning to break lose. It did.......break that is. The friggin thing snapped like a twig. Fortunately it was a clean and flush break right at the mounting hole, so I though it would be easy to drill out. Again, what was I thinking. Everything seemed to be going well with my brandy new dewalt titanium drill bits. I got to about the sixth size and the drill twisted ever so slightly and snapped the bit in the hole. I was unable to get it out so I called my local salvage yard for lower control arms. Yes, arm(s), cause I figure the other one is going to snap too. So I continue dismantling of the drivers side when I hit a snag. Well two maybe. 1) one bolt from the lower control arm is hindered by the axle. and 2) I can't get the friggin torsion bar out of the control arm.

I wasn't really planning on asking any questions here just posting a, how my life sucked today type of thing but, Do I really have to drop the axle to get this bolt and control arm out, and what is the best way to get the torsion bar out of the control arm.

I have removed the tension on the bar by completely removing the bracket from the chassis. I have removed the spindle assembly completely. The only things left are that one bold and the torsion bar. The lower control arms are going to run me $65 each. Does that sound like a decent price? My local auto parts store says they can still get me the bushings but, if I recall, 318SLT had problems getting bushings. I guess I wanna know that I will be able to get what I need to get this truck back on the road before winter, otherwise it may be time to scrap it.

Thanks for listening.

 

Do you mean the CV axles are in the way? Just remove them. 6 bolts (I think) then it comes off very easy since you said you have it all dissembled. The bolts can be tight due to the axle turning. It is best if you remove the bolts and the large CV nut when you have the brakes and all still on. Just have someone hold the brake pedal down to keep it from turning. Then let go the brake and turn the axle to get to the next bolt and hold the brake pedal down again. Same thing to tighten when installing.

It was Dodgerules86 that had the problem with the lower bushings. But maybe 95_318SLT can sell you his old control arms for a good price, if you didn't buy them already.

Spray the bar key way with the penetration oil if you didn't already. Next use a punch or something on the other side of control arm to hammer it out. Or remove it once you get the control arm out.

 

I took the CV axle out thinking that would give me the clearance I needed to get the bolt out but it wasn't. I tried lifting the differential up out of the way but it needs to go up another few inches and it won't go any further unless I unbolt it. I guess it's no big deal, what's another couple of bolts. I have a much better floor jack now so it won't be such a hassle getting it down and out of the way. I was just hoping for something a little less time consuming is all. I have really nosy neighbors and the thought of having my truck all dismantled in the driveway is not an appealing one.

I soaked the bar key but, didn't think to use my air chisel with the drift attachment to power it out. Duh, where was my head at? Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes....and another brain in this case...hehe

Thanks for your input Crazy, I really value your opinion.

 

I ran into the same problem with the shock bolts lol

I have one drilled out and thats it. The rest are snapped except one, left it for now. So for the past 2 months, ive been driving w/o a shock on the driverside and a useless one on the passanger side. its like having hydrolics and using them on the interstate to bounce your front end.

 

I here ya brother.

I should have just put it back together and drove it the way it was, the shocks were so bad, I would not have know the difference..LOL

I love your sig pic. Mine looks the same now only its black with a bright red door on the driver side. Did your hinges go too? Mine went right through the door. There was no helping it after it dropped. I went to shut the door and mangulated (is that even a word?) what was left of the hinge.

 

I changed my sig, it was too big but i like my new one too. The door, my grandpa replaced when he had it, and the new door is doing the same thing. When I open it, it clicks really loud and drops almost an inch, he told me I needed to grind something off in the hinges, but I have no clue. I could compare it to the other door though

 

Post up pic. From a quick look earlier under my truck it didn't look like it would be in the way. Right now I can't take a 2nd look.
The manual just says remove the cvs.
Your welcome.

 

Sounds like the hinges are tearing out of the door in that one too, that's what mine did. Open the door and take a look at the top hinge. A welder, couple pieces of flat stock steel and some bolts will fix it up.

 

yeah, its funny because my grandpa paid $400 to get the door replaced because thats what the last one did and now this ones doing it too. cheap bastards. the passanger doors fine though

 

That's cause we never carry passengers...LOL