3.9L barely running, looking for ideas
#31
Thanks for the input 9652.
The cap is 2 months old and is showing early signs of erosion between the rotor and at the plug lead terminals, but no signs of carbon tracking or other. We left it for now and will keep an eye on this.
We have no codes at present.
we did check the CTS and found approx 100 ohm difference in the harness VS measured right at the sensor. (what a place to put a sensor) My meter is really sucky so not surprised by that amount of difference.
The cap is 2 months old and is showing early signs of erosion between the rotor and at the plug lead terminals, but no signs of carbon tracking or other. We left it for now and will keep an eye on this.
We have no codes at present.
we did check the CTS and found approx 100 ohm difference in the harness VS measured right at the sensor. (what a place to put a sensor) My meter is really sucky so not surprised by that amount of difference.
#32
Latest update;
as the winter goes along, the truck consistently does not like to start when cold, and now is starting to lose power & misfire when driving along. there were no fault codes in the system.
we got to the point that this had to be dealt with, so took it to a chrysler dealer to have their scan tool put on it. they reset the timing point and checked for other causes. then it was put outside to cold soak for a few hours. local temp warmed up to -16C (3F) yesterday PM.
we started it and monitored the scanner. the various signals were all within range and the 02 was measureing at -1% to -2%. this tells us that the fuel and ignition system are good.
so after letting this sit overnite without being plugged in, it started this morning. that is not something that would have happened before.
what this tells us is how sensitive the fuel/ignition system is to precise setting of the trigger point.
only time will tell if that is the last gremlin in this truck, but it is looking good right now.
The disappointing thing about this is that we paid for a couple of hours of tech time, for 15 mins of work. if we had a suitable scan tool, we could have done this repair ourselves.
anyone know of a aftermarket tool that works like the DRB-1 chrysler tool?
as the winter goes along, the truck consistently does not like to start when cold, and now is starting to lose power & misfire when driving along. there were no fault codes in the system.
we got to the point that this had to be dealt with, so took it to a chrysler dealer to have their scan tool put on it. they reset the timing point and checked for other causes. then it was put outside to cold soak for a few hours. local temp warmed up to -16C (3F) yesterday PM.
we started it and monitored the scanner. the various signals were all within range and the 02 was measureing at -1% to -2%. this tells us that the fuel and ignition system are good.
so after letting this sit overnite without being plugged in, it started this morning. that is not something that would have happened before.
what this tells us is how sensitive the fuel/ignition system is to precise setting of the trigger point.
only time will tell if that is the last gremlin in this truck, but it is looking good right now.
The disappointing thing about this is that we paid for a couple of hours of tech time, for 15 mins of work. if we had a suitable scan tool, we could have done this repair ourselves.
anyone know of a aftermarket tool that works like the DRB-1 chrysler tool?
#33
I have a scan tool which works on OBD1&2. It gives some info on temps and is good for codes when the check engine light is one. One of the best on the market that i have found for a home use diagnostic tester. INNOVA The newer ones also diagnose ABS problems.
From what a mechanic told me, the INNOVA type pull "soft" codes. The expensive shop readers pull "soft" and "hard" codes which is more in depth. I think the mechanic also said they run for 12 grand. Any mechanics let me know if any of this is accurate?
Also have heard of laptop programs that work quite well.
From what a mechanic told me, the INNOVA type pull "soft" codes. The expensive shop readers pull "soft" and "hard" codes which is more in depth. I think the mechanic also said they run for 12 grand. Any mechanics let me know if any of this is accurate?
Also have heard of laptop programs that work quite well.