Yea festerw, I was going to suggest the TPS too, seeing as these trucks don't have a cold start valve.

 

Thanks FESTERW,

I don't see a check valve on any hose to/from my tank, so I will add one.

Starting problem: Looks like I have some testing to do. I am not ruling out the fuel pump yet. The on/off/on trick seemed to work this morning. I will continue testng this method vs regular starting for a few days, to determine for sure.

If it is the fuel pump leaking pressure, what's the solution, replacing the pump? If so, giving the truck runs perfectly after starting, how long should that pump last? I could live with the hard start, and your on/off/on solution, if the pump won't get me stranded. I assume that that will be other warning signs, before that happens?

 

NO....NEVER ASSUME THAT!

The fuel pump will go without warning and always, always right after you fill the tank to the brim. Ask anybody.

 

FESTERW: I can't seem to find a canister check valve anywhere, as they say its not stock on mine. Where can i get one and what specifically should I ask for?

PASHADOWOPS: Yea, I was just hoping. It's already been a year, with no change. I know the odds. I am ready to start fall fishing (pulling a boat). My luck would be backed in, on the ramp.

I will test all the sensors this weekend.

 

I have a 93 dakota 5speed i have the same issue it gets hard to start when the weather is a bit colder once it warms up it'll start first crank so id assume theres nothing extremely wrong with yours check to see if the batteries getting 12v not running, then check it again while running it should be around 14v also check your battery cables could be corroded or a loose connection?

 

for the check valve any parts store should have a universal one
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._A|GRP2037____

Only way to verify fuel pump health is with a pressure gauge and even that could be misleading. If the key trick works it just means your loosing pressure somewhere whether it's a leaky injector, fuel line or a leaking check valve in the pump assembly. Even if the valve is leaking it doesn't mean there is a problem with the pump itself.

 

Thanks FESTERW,

My truck does have one of those, its just before the hose enters the manifold. I thought that was a splicer, its small. I will get a new one.

The on/off/on trick does seem to help. Waiting a bit before starting seems to prime the pump or system. As you mention, there are so many variables here. I will just continue testing various items.

My battery voltage and cables are good.

You have already told me molre than any repair shop or dealer has discovered. Thanks for all your help, I may be back with more results and questions.

Randy

 

One other thought what type of spark plugs you use and did you make sure to gap then before the install? The 3.9/5.2/5.9 seem to run better on just the plain cheap copper autolite, champion, etc.

In the FAQ section there is the factory service manual download that can walk you through the diagnostics also section 14 IIRC deals with startup troubleshooting not related to electrical faults.

 

Yes, I had already read about the copper plugs working the best, and I did gap them correctly. I do have autolite copper. But I did wonder if I did something during my tune up process to cause this. But it must just be a coincidence, as I can't find anything wrong with my tuneup. I replaced plugs, rotor, cap and cleaned carb with spray cleaner. The repair shops keep saying the dead battery reset my computer and it will relearn, but thats been a year.

I will check out the manual.

My dakota runs as smooth as it ever has and hauls a load without any problem. I just finished building a deck on theback of my home, hauled 3 loads of lumber. If I can just figure out the crazy hard start problem.

Again, I really do appreciate your help here. In problem solving with Automobiles, I perfer the ellimination process, via testing. Rather than just keep replacing parts until i find the problem one. I still have a lot of testing to do this weekend.

 

FesterW,

I have some test results.

Everything looks good except:

MAP: 4.7v, both hot and cold.
TPS: 4.8V, both closed and open throttle.

Just to be sure: I took the volt reading, on the wire connector (not the sensor), with the wires unpluged from sensor, correct?

Any my hard start is getting worst. It's getting colder here. I am afraid I am going to wear out my starter or battery, as it turns over 4-5 seconds now before it hits.

And oddly, recently, sometimes first thing in the morning, when i first turn on key to start, it does nothing. I turn it off and back on, then it will turn over the starter.

FYI: The starter turns over at normal speed, battery checks fine, all electrical is working.

What do these test results mean?

Any other suggestions?