Those voltages should be the power the sensors are receiving from the PCM, try checking the other terminals. If you still get the same readings I'd replace both, I'm guessing the MAP sensor is more your problem since the TPS usually causes issues with shifting as well.

On the starter issue could be something as easy as a dirty or loose connection or the PITA of the starter crapping out. 4-5 seconds shouldn't cause any harm to the starter if you were talking 15 seconds or so that would be different.

 

i believe the tests need to be done with the sensor connected into the harness. From memory, the TPS signal should be approx 0.7Vdc with the ignition on and throttle at idle position. The voltage signal should increase smoothly as the throttle is opened.
The PCM uses the changing voltage signal to determine throttle opening (power demand) which in turn sets the fuel injector on time, and along with rpm and temperature signals it also affects the ignition timing point.
the MAP sensor is another variable voltage signal that is proportional to the amount of intake vacuum.
low vacuum usually is found at wide open throttle.
highest vacuum is at idle or closed throttle deceleration.
When using a voltmeter, the signal you measure from the MAP sensor with ignition on, but engine off is very close to the signal the PCM would see at wide open throttle (almost atmospheric pressure). With the engine idling, you typically get a very high vacuum signal and the MAP sensor output should reflect that.

 

Thanks. I will retest, at the sensor terminals, with wires plugged in.

 

OK, more results, with wires hooked up to sensors and reading taken at sensor terminals

MAP: Hot 4.2V
Cold: 4.8v

TPS hot .600v
hot WOT: 4.7

So, is my MAP bad?

 

Update:

I just checked for codes and got 12 and 24.

I looked these up, 24 is the TPS, so I will get a TPS and MAP today.

But 12 is lost power. I have not lost power, my radio and clock are still set. Could I have just lost power to the computer? Any suggestions here?

BTW: After I install the sensors, how do I clear the codes?

 

Update:

I resolved the starting issues this weekend. I actually had 2 problems.

My starter went out completly, and I replaced it. That resolved the "no" start issue.

I replaced the TPS and MAP sensors. That resolved the "hard" start issues. My truck now starts instantly, at all temps, and runs perfectly.

I would like to thank Festerw, and the rest of you guys for your professional help. The repair shops, had no idea what was going on.

I would like to pass along a tip, that you may or may not know. I purchased all my parts at my local Advanced Auto parts. I ordered them online, for store pickup. I used some great discount codes. Some were $20 off $50, $30 off $70. In all, I saved $85 for all 3 parts. Got my parts reallty cheap and fast. Just search google for Advance Auto discount codes.

But, I have not yet resolved my fan blower/vent issue, listed previously. There still is a vacuum problem somewhere. I tested the inline vacuum valve (from manifold to tank) and it is fine. There is no valve, from tank to cab. It still switches from dash or floor, to defrost vents, when under engine load (as climbing hill). Then back, when leveled off.

 

Cool glad you got it running right.

I'd still put a check valve in the line going into the firewall, it will determine whether the problem is on the engine or interior side.

 

Thanks, I will try the in line valve.

What should I check next, if that does not fix it?

 

If that doesn't fix it you've got a real job ahead of you. You'll need a vacuum pump and will have to individually check each component under the dash to try and isolate the problem part or hose.

If it does work you'll want to check the vacuum hoses under the hood for cracking since you're loosing vacuum there somewhere. Even consider replacing them all since they are 15 years old.

 

Thanks. That will keep me busy for a few days.