...and this is getting old fast. I don't have the knowledge or the resources to chase down the problem/s. I just know that I can't trust this truck right now.

It's been starting and running fine for the past week I've had it. All of a sudden yesterday, it decided not to start...at all. I tried the on/off 3 second trick...no go. About 10 days ago, after similar intermittent no starts and shut downs, I checked the notorious splice for damage and corrosion....found none. I sanded the area around the ground connection on the sidewall got a good metal to metal ground and the truck started and ran fine....for a week.

Yesterday after not starting I used some electrical contact cleaner on several connections to sensors and whatnot....still wouldn't start.

This morning it started up on the first crank. I let it idle for a few minutes and drove it around the block, parked it, tried to start it again, but it wouldn't fire. It will turn over, but won't fire off.

A new fuel pump was installed before I got the truck. The fuel gauge hasn't worked since, but did before. I know there's fuel in it. Just wondering if there's a power issue to the pump related to the gauge issue. I just don't know.

I suppose I could start chasing sensors (TPS, MAP, CPS, etc.), but not sure where to start there either. Really getting frustrated and I don't want to pay insurance on a truck I can't drive. Any tips are appreciated.

When it DOES start, it fires right off with no problem, like immediately. Makes me think it's just a sensor maybe?

94 Dakota SLT 3.9 Auto

 

Check your relays - swap the ASD with the fuel pump and such. One of them may be on the fritz.

 

not a bad idea. Also make sure on the "no start" times you are listening for the fuel pump to click on and prime. The gauge issue is probably not power. There is a float arm attached to the pump and if that isn;t installed JUST RIGHT your guage will be off or stick.

I woudnt rule out power issues to the pump, I just finished that battle a little while ago (ok, not finished....I still need to mount my lower wiring back to the frame and stuff, lol) and it caused me very similar issues. Would start one day, and in just sitting around, suddenly wouldnt start a day later. very frustrating.

Next time it wont start check for power to the pump. pull the power connector off and check the ASD output pin for 12v. You can find more detailed directions on my previous post about electrical issues. Or just ask.


Alright I'm off to get coffee as I am brain dead................ (late morning)

 

Thanks Sam, haven't tried that yet, but see what I did below.

On my third cup right now....need it!

I'm hearing "something" kick-in in the key's "on" position, only for a couple seconds then it goes off. I'm assuming that's the pump doing what it's supposed to do.

I just read on another Dakota forum where a guy unplugged his CPS, plugged it back it and it cranked. I unplugged it, sprayed the connector and the sensor, plugged it back in and it fired right up. Of course, I'm don't know if that was "it", but encouraging nonetheless.

I'll check out your detailed directions. I have a gig to play tonight so I have to go up there to set up. Think I'll take the Marquis to be on the safe-side till I get more time with the Dakota.

On a good note....I found a passenger-side turn signal/side-marker bezel to replace my broken one for $15 right up the road.

 

Started all day yesterday while running a bunch of errands.

Walked out today...... would not start. Turns over, but no start. Ran beautifully yesterday.

Happy freekin' Birthday Soundguy!

 

Check the infamous splice under the PDC by the battery. When it won't start, do you hear the fuel pump whine as it pressurizes when you have the key on? If not, your pump is getting sporadic power...could be the splice.

 

Although you mention unplugging and replugging the cps unit, did you physically look at it? It is very suspect in my mind because your fuel pump is whirring and you are getting spark (if it fails to spark you could check for spark at that time). I have seen them look basically unscathed after 200k and I have seen them look like a well done marshmallow after 50k, both of which causes failure to start.

 

Thanks, I checked the splice a week ago, didn't see any evidence of corrosion or arcing. I didn't unwrap every splice and inspect however. Maybe I need to go through that again.

I'm hearing "something" that sounds like the pump running only for a couple of seconds. It's a brand new pump....installed before I got the truck.

Thanks for your reply. No, I didn't physically inspect it.

I don't have a helper to help me check for spark. I just called Auto Zone to see if they could scan it for me if I get it started. They said they couldn't because it's a 94 and they only do 96 and later. I read somewhere where an OBD II scanner would work with my yr. model. I wasn't going to argue with them though.

Will an OBD I only work on this truck?

 

Some scanners can read OBD1 and OBD2. But the cord would be different. And not all can do both. Mostly the higher priced ones. Auto parts stores use a code reader not a scanner, which are cheep. Code readers only read codes. Scanners can do a lot more.

Yes only a OBD1 scanner/reader will work.

You can read the codes without a scanner. Just turn on and off the key 3 times then count the flashes of the check engine light. For a better explanation and list of codes go to the FAQ in this section.

 

Thanks crazy, I just performed the DIY check engine light method.

I got the codes...

12
11
55

Going to FAQ to see what they mean now.