If I had to do it again, I would have transferred the entire engine/tranny/harness ect. from a donor and run it as is. Next is interior and body work......TBC

 

i personally like carbs. with the mpfi i was always having problems and with the carb in the 49 chev i've never had a problem. got the carb for free with a crack in it, put sealed it up and she's still running strong. with the dakota it was sensor here, sensor there. hell, when i sold the truck it had all new sensors on it, but now that i got rid of it i'm getting horrible nightmares...lol

 

Transmission wiring: The two pressure fittings are 54 psi and 48 psi for the OD and the Lockup. I am an aggressive driver so I opted for the upper side of pressure. I will also have 28-29" tires, so I figured this in with my 3.55 gears. When I change my rear gears later, I may need to change the psi switch or switches to accomodate the change. I am told they are about $15 each. This is the kit from PATC which I paid just under $90.


These are the pressure switches and the tee tap for the transmission.



This is the full pressure port on the passenger side of the transmission.



Put a 1 1/2" straight fitting into the port (you could use a 1" section as well (I did not use sealant to maintain a ground).



Attach the tee fitting.



Install the pressure switches.

 

maybe i missed it but what year motor are you using?

 

The block is a 95' (baked at 240,000 miles or until golden brown). I reused the bottom end, but had the cylinders honed, crank polished, and put in new bearings.

Edit: It started to rain so I cannot show the wiring for the switches yet. Perhaps tomorrow.

 

Tried to buy a y-pipe at the yard, but they were wary of a $2 million fee from the EPA (from the cats), so I went and scheduled an exhaust install (They quoted about $300 for the work and stainless, if I get 2 90 elbows and the muffler). Found a TV cable from a newer dakota which is the same as the ram, and durango, and jeeps with the same engine family. Picked up a auxillary trans cooler, and the tranny cooling lines, and a dipstick for $37. Took the excess to get a few temporary down pipes. I will have to procure the extension lines for the tranny coolant lines to match my radiator.

 

I routed the transmission coolant lines, which technically fit, but are not a replacement. They were procured from a 97' Ram and are a little taller (overall) than the Dakota/ Durango lines according to picture sources. So back to the yard for a different set. I must say it is frustrating to get to the end to find all of the gremlins, but par for the course. I will say the ONLY way to route them after installing the engine is from the front and from underneath the bumper/airdam toward the back with the starter removed. I had to jack the front end up about 9" to get them to the proper angle to pass all the metal. Also, I neglected to retain the TV cable clip/bracket from the transmission, so at least I am not just going for lines.

 

Tv cable is set now. Judging by the difference between the 727 and a518, the a518 uses a low cable bracket and the 727 uses a tall bracket, both do not interfere with coolant line routing. Speaking of which, I am flaring the fittings to run the final 2 lines to their respective slots on the radiator. I ended up with a set from a 93 Dak, but one of them had been field repaired, so I had to modify one of the Ram lines. They look fine, but won't know if it will leak until the fluid is in. Also, I must find wire the tachometer, but after that I am officially done with the swap. Now on to bodywork and a new top.

 

Pics of existing paint before body work:

















I think that the previous owner had repainted the vehicle. The painter did not prep the surface (etching) so alot of paint is peeling. The more the better since I am taking it to 90% metal.

 

looks good...