Check engine light - code 32
#1
Check engine light - code 32
Ever since I've bought the truck the check engine light would come on driving at a consistent speed for a longer period of time. So today i decided to look into it more. I read the FAQ and after checkin my truck it read code 32 - "EGR Solenoid circuit short or open condition detected"
What does that mean exactly? How can I fix it? What does it affect?
Thanks in advance
What does that mean exactly? How can I fix it? What does it affect?
Thanks in advance
#2
Replace the EGR valve would be a first step, altho it could be an indication of a variety of problems. When my truck started throwing that code, I went to the junkyard and tore out a couple of EGR valves and threw them in my truck, just to see if the problem was in the valve itself, or an electrical short in the line, loose ground, cracked vacuum hose, etc. Turns out carb deposits had clogged up the vacuum hole, my EGR was also totally caked on the inside with carbon and gunk.
EGR valves are reasonable at the auto parts store, about 35 bucks, at the junkyard they are even cheaper, and free if you have big pockets!
Somewhere around here is a link on how to test your EGR, I believe with the truck running locate the EGR, and note the position of the solenoid plunger at idle. Then rev it up to running speed, the solenoid should move a little bit, I don't recall how much maybe a half inch or so, and then quickly return to normal when you let off the gas. If you are gunked up then it will prevent free movement, and thus the solenoid will not operate. There are also electrical readings which you should be able to determine, I dont have them in front of me but a good manual should be able to help you out. If you are new at this, go grab a couple EGR valves from the junkyard and put them in your truck. I always like to take parts form the trucks that have obviously been crashed, because you know the truck was at least running well when it was brought in!
EGR valves are reasonable at the auto parts store, about 35 bucks, at the junkyard they are even cheaper, and free if you have big pockets!
Somewhere around here is a link on how to test your EGR, I believe with the truck running locate the EGR, and note the position of the solenoid plunger at idle. Then rev it up to running speed, the solenoid should move a little bit, I don't recall how much maybe a half inch or so, and then quickly return to normal when you let off the gas. If you are gunked up then it will prevent free movement, and thus the solenoid will not operate. There are also electrical readings which you should be able to determine, I dont have them in front of me but a good manual should be able to help you out. If you are new at this, go grab a couple EGR valves from the junkyard and put them in your truck. I always like to take parts form the trucks that have obviously been crashed, because you know the truck was at least running well when it was brought in!
Last edited by swapdip; 12-09-2010 at 08:58 PM.
#3
#4
Truck seems to be running fine, 17-18 mpg and runs strong, but things like that bug the crap outta me so I'll address it soon with a new EGR.
Trouble is, at Auto Zone here, they're $72. Guess I need to shop around.
#7
Well I found out that my EGR valve has NO vacuum. BUT from what my shop instructor told me it doesn't seem to be an issue, infact according to him my truck will actually run better and be more efficient without my EGR valve working. I guess the reason they even equip vehicles with EGR valves is for recirculating the "Bad emissions" to make tree hugers happy and to keep fish from sprouting 7 eyes. Anyone else ever hear that? My check engine light only comes on every once in awhile anyways so I think I may just live with it.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I had the same exact thing happen. Only code Ive got (crosses fingers, knocks on wood). Light would come on randomly (or after not driving for a few days or after some hard acceleration lol) and I cleaned the valve a few times and it still came on so I just replaced it and been good since.