radios and subs.
#11
01-03-2011, 04:23 PM
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Hmmmm, Since you do not require "ultimate bass" and want to get a bit of punch. I would suggest a 1000w to 1500w amp with around 750w-900w of sub. I have used the Kicker shallows, and the Pioneer shallows. The Pioneer lines are superior IN ALL ASPECTS. Twin Pioneer 10's (I think the 1041 line) will put you around 700w RMS. Which will "punch" without the "boom". As far as protecting them, without seeing the rear seat area, I cannot "draw" a recommendation, as mine is a regular cab. I also, am unfamiliar with the C&D pillars in anything larger than a regular cab model. Alot of people have yet to realize the potential of polycarbonate sheeting (clear or colored). It is rigid, easily worked with wood tools, and will never sweat, rot, peel, delaminate, or anything else associated with MDF, or similar woods. If you take a pic or get someone to post one with the "rough" H, W, D I could use WinISD to determine if you need a port or not (I will also need your speaker brand/model for the TS parameters). FYI, I have built competition systems, but for smaller setups, not the "spare no expense type". I feel that simplicity, and minimization creates less maintenance. The last box setup I did was pushing a little more than 4000w, but accuracy became an issue with the user. He is still trying to shatter his windows (Why? IDK).
As far as the differences between your stage sound setup vs a vehicle. The vehicle is a bit better for controlling certain frquencies, as most interiors absorb well (there are inherent anti-nodes within the chassis that cancel out certain frequencies). As always, your upper frequencies will be an issue for locating, unless you split the channels and use four directional tweeters for the front. I will look at some interior pics of other similar trucks and see if I can help.
As far as the differences between your stage sound setup vs a vehicle. The vehicle is a bit better for controlling certain frquencies, as most interiors absorb well (there are inherent anti-nodes within the chassis that cancel out certain frequencies). As always, your upper frequencies will be an issue for locating, unless you split the channels and use four directional tweeters for the front. I will look at some interior pics of other similar trucks and see if I can help.
On my stock system, I can cut a bit of 120hz on the graphic and be happy as a lark. Still using the stock 5 1/4"ers in the front (on their last leg too) and 5x7's in the back with my Mp3 player using hi-res files. Sounds better than I expected, but I know it can be better.
Thanks again!
#12
01-03-2011, 08:27 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: tn
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well i've settled on what i'm going to do with it when i get some cash in a couple of months.
i'll pull the tray under the seats and either mod the cab floor (hello sledge hammer) so i can use my alpines 12" type r's (god i love those things im not sure how they will do with smaller air space as i had em in a 3 cf sealed box before and they rocked) or ill sell them and go for some shallow mounts. i want 12's and will not have less. i've had 8's 10's 12's and 15's and i prefer the sound of the 12's. i may end up only using one. i'll find out when i start the mock up and i have $ money go ahead with it.
ill just replace my door speakers with 6x9's in the back and keep the same size in the front.
ill pull my seats and mount the amp under the drivers seat.
i'll use my current pioneer head unit out of the other truck since it always pushed the
door speakers with much ease. as for the alt i'll just see how it does. if it can't keep the battery up (like the ranger) then i'll yank it out delta wind it and be done with it. only other thing ill do now is investigate what i want to build the box out of. before in other vehicles i just used whatever and was happy with that. but this truck is the nicest i've ever had and im not about to junk it.
i'm not looking to blow out bondo joints or break the back glass out (the ranger did this when i first got the alpines) i want my sound qaulity back mainly. i midd my hard hitting bass.
when i do finally get it done ill post up pics and let yall know how it works out. by the way siggie i've used winisd several times as well. i love it because you can see where it's gonna perform best without wasting money on a crappy sound.
i'll pull the tray under the seats and either mod the cab floor (hello sledge hammer) so i can use my alpines 12" type r's (god i love those things im not sure how they will do with smaller air space as i had em in a 3 cf sealed box before and they rocked) or ill sell them and go for some shallow mounts. i want 12's and will not have less. i've had 8's 10's 12's and 15's and i prefer the sound of the 12's. i may end up only using one. i'll find out when i start the mock up and i have $ money go ahead with it.
ill just replace my door speakers with 6x9's in the back and keep the same size in the front.
ill pull my seats and mount the amp under the drivers seat.
i'll use my current pioneer head unit out of the other truck since it always pushed the
door speakers with much ease. as for the alt i'll just see how it does. if it can't keep the battery up (like the ranger) then i'll yank it out delta wind it and be done with it. only other thing ill do now is investigate what i want to build the box out of. before in other vehicles i just used whatever and was happy with that. but this truck is the nicest i've ever had and im not about to junk it.
i'm not looking to blow out bondo joints or break the back glass out (the ranger did this when i first got the alpines) i want my sound qaulity back mainly. i midd my hard hitting bass.
when i do finally get it done ill post up pics and let yall know how it works out. by the way siggie i've used winisd several times as well. i love it because you can see where it's gonna perform best without wasting money on a crappy sound.