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increasing rpms..slow take off

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Old 01-12-2011 | 10:11 PM
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Default increasing rpms..slow take off

so on the way home outta nowhere while taking off from a stop the rpms steadily increased but the truck didnt take off like usual. to be more specific..i gave it just a little gas and the truck started goin but slowly as the rpms increased to around 2-2500 and i could just feel a hesitation and knew something wasnt right. its almost like slamming on the gas and the engine roars but the speed increases a lot slower than the rpms until it hits the right speed to shift to 2nd. which i kinda did do and its really the same..revs up as it takes off but not as fast as usual. it runs fine once youre up to speed and nothing wrong if you gun it once you are up to speed. ive done pretty much everything but replace the cap and rotor but never had a problem before. i plan on running some seafoam through in hopes that its just something a little dirty in the fuel system and plan on taking it to my guys tomorrow just to have it looked at. but any way to clean the cap and rotor until i can get around to replacing them? thanks ahead guys and sorry for the lack of punctuation and grammar..using an app on my phone and for some reason it wont let me capitalize and stuff.
 
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Old 01-12-2011 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by melodytoinvent
so on the way home outta nowhere while taking off from a stop the rpms steadily increased but the truck didnt take off like usual. to be more specific..i gave it just a little gas and the truck started goin but slowly as the rpms increased to around 2-2500 and i could just feel a hesitation and knew something wasnt right. its almost like slamming on the gas and the engine roars but the speed increases a lot slower than the rpms until it hits the right speed to shift to 2nd. which i kinda did do and its really the same..revs up as it takes off but not as fast as usual. it runs fine once youre up to speed and nothing wrong if you gun it once you are up to speed. ive done pretty much everything but replace the cap and rotor but never had a problem before. i plan on running some seafoam through in hopes that its just something a little dirty in the fuel system and plan on taking it to my guys tomorrow just to have it looked at. but any way to clean the cap and rotor until i can get around to replacing them? thanks ahead guys and sorry for the lack of punctuation and grammar..using an app on my phone and for some reason it wont let me capitalize and stuff.

With regards to any transmission issues, you can clean the interior contacts and rotor sides/edge with 400 grit sandpaper, and check your plugs for excessive gaps. Remember that cleaning the leading edge will only increase the wear of the contact points as most specs call for around 0.060 gap, which isn't alot to play with. Seafoam is not a proper method of cleaning (although popular) the internals of your intake track, and due to the barrel intake design will not come into much contact with the top of the valves.
 

Last edited by siggie30; 01-12-2011 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 01-12-2011 | 11:44 PM
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yeah im keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that it isnt a transmission thing. i know dodge transmissions can be sketchy but never had a problem so im at least confident haha. i think i have a bad u-joint if that might be it or at least contribute to it. ill probably just replace them..i dont wanna sand em down too much or nothing. lol well then what do recommend if not seafoam?
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by melodytoinvent
yeah im keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that it isnt a transmission thing. i know dodge transmissions can be sketchy but never had a problem so im at least confident haha. i think i have a bad u-joint if that might be it or at least contribute to it. ill probably just replace them..i dont wanna sand em down too much or nothing. lol well then what do recommend if not seafoam?
A bad u-joint would vibrate according to engaged RPM (not at idle, but as the shaft starts to spin). Seafoam loosens the grime that has built up within the intake track, but does nothing to prevent future buildup. Z-max does penetrate the metal pores, but has an adhesion to new dirt that runs through (I do however, agree to use Z-max as a fuel additive once every 10-20k miles). With exception to replacing the parts that are next. I wouldn't do anything until after they are replaced, then I would put a PCV catch can to lessen the debris going through the return system. Once that is in place, then do the snake oil if you like. Run a half quart of ATF in your oil for about 500 miles (contains detergents) then drain and refill your oil. Change oil a second time after 2000 miles then back to regular schedule. Without looking at the valves it is hard to say how much buildup is on them, and due to the intake design, you cannot chemically clean them like a typical intake. You can raise the temp of the cylinder head to help break up the debris, but physically cleaning them is really the only way. If your valve seals are old, you could bypass the seal with a cleaning agent, but you cannot control the fluid. It is one of the design limitations of the engine.
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 03:45 AM
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ill keep that in mind lol. so...update...took a ride to town and checked the fluid. seemed a little low so i added some and got it pretty much perfect. started driving and no change. still revs up to around 2500 rpms and kinda makes a spooling noise before it shifts to 2nd then all is good. it didnt really do it every time and mostly coming from a dead stop. i have some videos but it might be a while before i get em up. also it seems that all the time besides at idle the rpms seem like theyre a little high..i noticed a little more backrap under deceleration which usually only happens with overdrive off or under some sort of load. and one last thing which i hate to say...the last time i was accelerating there was a split second scrape sound but the split second i heard it i let off the gas and no more...
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 04:04 AM
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it only does this accelerating from a dead stop up until it shifts to 2nd then all seems well..just to be clear.
 
  #7  
Old 01-13-2011 | 11:06 AM
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maybe one of the bands came loose on the trans. when it revs up is there a hollow back fire? i would also suggest checking the cable going from the tb to the trans(forgot the name since i don't have it anymore)

this might help https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...agnostics.html
 

Last edited by shadowthedakota; 01-13-2011 at 11:09 AM.
  #8  
Old 01-13-2011 | 11:59 AM
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yeah i looked at that link but still not sure. but no..no backfiring it just revs up to about 2500-3000 rpms then shifts but you can feel and hear that the engine is moving faster than the trucks taking off. im hoping it is just the bands or that cable..ive never adjusted either and forgot to have the bands adjusted when i did all the fluid changes and tune up. im about to take it to my guys and a transmission shop. ill let you guys know what i found out. fingers crossed yo lmao
 
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Old 01-13-2011 | 06:11 PM
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so the transmission guy took it for a drive. on the first take off he noticed that it didnt seem like it took off in first and we kept cruising and he was shifting it up and down turning overdrive on and off doin his thing haha. he said it still had all the gears so thats good. and in the end he gave me some hope. he said the govenor or whatever might be messin up and or the tv cable. i assume the cable has at least a little something to with it cause i have had some of the symptoms for that before. other than that it does kinda seem like something is sticking or staying open or closed. i dont have any loss of power or nothing..can still make em squeal..just seems like it really could be the things he said cause it seems like the govenor is staying open or closed and allowing the engine to go but holding the tranny back..which kinda sounds like the cable not working right too..dont ya think? lol im just tryin keep my head up haha. anyway..taking the truck back in tomorrow and hes gonna adjust the cable and do some tests on the govenor. am i spellin that right? lol
 
  #10  
Old 01-14-2011 | 06:08 PM
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guy at the transmission shop checked the cable and that was fine. did tests on the govenor and thats got low pressure. so im hoping thats all it is. he told me just to manually shift it for a while and that might free it up before i decide to put money into fixing the govenor. do they still manufacture the govenors? me and the guy werent sure since a lot of parts for these trucks arent made anymore...
 


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