Well I went out to my local U-PULL IT, and got a good ring case/carrier and spiders and all the small extras for $30. It was from a 88 with the CAD. Damn that was the hardest thing I had to do in the yard, took me forever. I hate that CAD setup. Thank God my 4wd is 94 even though the my truck originally was 93.

The ring and pinion is a 3.55 so I will need to get a new set. I have 3.90 I'm not sure if I should just keep the 3.9 which will be simple. But I'm tempted to step it up and go 4.11 which I would have to do the rear too, more money and tons more work. I will have the money in 2 weeks.

 

similar thing happened on my car way back while racing.. ended up cyo treating the replacment spider gears and such..
worked great and pretty cheap.

 

If you go 4:11s, you'll break it even faster next time!!! The lower the gear ratio, the more you are multiplying the torque that goes through it, so 4:11's will be even harder on the carrier.

 

though will produce more tq. actually removes stress from the drivetrain... like downshifting to go up a hill

 

Ya the increased torque is the reason for the lower ratio change. I know the rear end can handle it, but the front is the problem. I was thinking just keep my foot off of it. I was 100% throttle and on a tall bumpy hill. I know my limits and I pushed it that day.

 

Its a little more complicated than that. The torque multiplies at every gear change. Say your engine is putting out 300 ft*lbs at the crank... If the transmission's 1st gear is 4:1 (I know it is on my old nv3500 5 speed), then the input shaft of the transmission has 300 ft*lbs being applied to it and the output shaft has 1200 ft*lbs being applied to it. If the transfer case is in hi range (1:1), the input and output shafts both have 1200 ft*lbs being applied. If your axle ratio is 3.9:1, the pinion yoke has 1200 ft*lbs being applied to it and the carrier output has 4680 ft*lbs being applied to it. If the axle ratio is 4.1:1, the pinion yoke has 1200 ft*lbs being applied to it and the carrier output has 4920 ft*lbs being applied to it. Thats 240 more ft*lbs for just a change of .2 on the gear ratio (a 5% change).

Anyway, different parts of the drivetrain have different amounts of stress on them, and resistance plays a large large roll as well. If you have larger tires on the truck, the resistance on the axle shafts is much greater, so that higher torque is meeting higher resistance and you're putting an even greater stress on the axles and carrier. Also the weight of the truck adds to the resistance. If you have the same engine, transmission, axle ratios, etc. on a RCSB with factory tires, it will have much less overall stress than an extended cab with larger tires because the resistance is lower, not because its putting out any less torque.

When you downshift going up hill, it actually adds stress to the drivetrain parts... it only removes it from the engine.

 

I got a new toy! 89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Front axle driver side drop Dana 44. Guess what my plans are? $189 at U-Pull for the axle, springs, steering linkages, a few misc brackets. $30 for a good solid steering box. Craigslist ad wanted $200 for the axle alone. Good Deal.

 

Dang Crazy!! Good find! I sure hope you don't get yours done before I finish mine! Just kidding!

Is that a low pinion dana 44? And are you going with the leaf spring setup then?

 

What is left on yours? I may get mine done within a few weeks to a month.

I ordered my 4.11 gears for both. There was a Chry 9.25 durango axle but I passed it was striped of the brakes, and I don't want to loose my locker. I love having a locker. Now with the D44 I eventually can do a front selectable locker.

Yes it's the low pinion version. Only a few Fords F250 F350 came with the High pinion. Yes leaf springs. I love how simple and strong they are. I will try to do it with very little welding. All bolt on, with Grade 8 large bolts of coarse.

My plan is to get it looking as close to lifted stock as possible. I don't like over the size trucks, redneck style. So I'm guessing make it to fit 35's for now, but keep my Bad A$$ 33 muds. That is one reason for the bolt on. I can swap in larger hangers and get more lift. Leaf springs are so easy to lift. Maybe do the rear hanger 2wd swap depending on how the front comes out.

A local spring shop can custom built the brackets for cheap. I'll start my build thread in a week or so. The axle is super greasy from a bad engine oil leak.

This will be fun.

 

I still have a good bit left to do:

Track bar for front axle
Shocks for front axle
Sway bar for front axle (this will come last only if I need it)
Rebuild the rear leaf spring mounts to reposition the rear axle
Weld the rear axle spring pads and shock mounts
Fabricate a transmission crossmember
Set up the brakes
Decide on a transfer case (thinking about an Atlas)
Order custom driveshafts
Custom exhaust that clears the 3 link

Thats the list of big things. Then I need to rebuild the axles with new seals and bearings, etc. I also need to weld in the floor and recut the hole for the nv4500 shifter location. If I'd been working on it for the past 5 months, I'd be done, but I took a break for many reasons.

As far as the strength goes, I disagree, but thats just personal opinion. Whatever makes you happy! But in my opinion, since the leaf springs have to locate the axle and hold the weight of the truck, its weaker. In the 3 link, you have bars locating the axle that don't bend like the leaf springs, and you have coils to hold the weight of the truck, so you have several parts to the system rather than just 1 part doing it all. Also, the 3 link coil setup will offer more flex since the spring can be lighter material since it doesn't have to locate the axle and be stiff enough to avoid wrap, etc.