Hey Alacoque, where in BC are you from?
I have fit speakers in tighter areas. They usually come with templates on the back of the box. Tin snips, dremmel with cutting disk or if your really desperate, zip cut disk on a angle grinder lol. I would vote tin snips.

Roll the window down and measure.

 

Im in a small town named Invermere. Do you know it? Okay thanks for the help everyone! I should have the speakers in about two weeks or so, I'll let you know how it goes

 

Invermere, my distant relative has a house cabin out there. Also have friends that travel to Windermere. That is a fairly small town.

Good luck on the speaker install!

 

Alright, the front 6.5's fit no problem! I just had to drill two new holes and make a few mods to the mounting brackets that came with them.

I'm installing the 6x9's at the moment. I have one done and the other still left to do. The installation went pretty much as planned, I had to cut the hole in the sheet metal larger using a dremel, drill 4 new holes, and hook up the wiring. Easy! I'm really happy with the results and I'm glad I bought the larger size speakers!

The only problem is that the doors seem to rattle a fair amount when there's lots of bass (so almost always). Anyone know of any way to fix this? Thanks!

 

id get some dynamat put it behind the speaker on your door that should help

 

yeah..dynamat..like i said in the 6th post...

 

how will dynamat help

 

it helps with sound loss and vibration. put it around the speaker..behind it..anywhere you see fit. itll help sturdy the area around it so the vibrations dont go throughout the door. and help direct the sound more towards you and not the outside of the door. id put new foam insulation around the inside of the door panel to help too. cant say how you can fix it from vibrating the little pieces inside for the window and stuff.

 

Sound mat absorbs heat from the speakers and provides slightly more rigidity to the larger panels. Other than that it is really not designed to reflect transmission frequencies, other than a few spots on the spectrum. It is a very good product to slow exterior to interior noise, thus "cleaning" your output from your speakers. Expansion foam is nice for large cavities, but use it conservatively as most brands expand 30-50% (it will be on the can) and can bow out your panels, push out your windows, or relocate soft items as it cures.

As far as door rattleing, you can "shim" panels with cloth strips, or if the tabs are loose/broke replacement tabs are in order. Also, if the interior of the panels are rattleing, you can use "tarbase" with plastic sheeting to minimize movements.

 

i pulled the stereo out of mine and put 2 wires from the left-right back output to the back of the truck with lots of extra line. then i put an on / off switch on the back speaker lines.
what i would do is put all the power from the stereo to the back speakers and click the back speakers off. then i could hook my extra lines to any speaker outside the truck to any speakers in the bed.
i hooked up a pair of 250 watt (each, 15 inch woofer, 8 inch midrange, horn tweeter) house speakers to a 40 watt (10 watts per channel) truck stereo! damn thing worked. i had to tone it down for the beach and camping so i went with a set of 150 watt surround system speakers. i am seriously not lying to you.