1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

My Official Solid Axle Swap (Discussion Thread 2)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default My Official Solid Axle Swap (Discussion Thread 2)

Well my other discussion thread got to be 19 pages long of almost all offtopic discussion, so i'm starting clean with a new one.

After around 7 months of distractions, its time to get back to work. I have a lot of wire wheeling to do to knock off surface rust and I need to put paint on everything so it doesnt rust again before I start back with the swap itself, but I digress.

So keeping a watch on Crazy4x4rt's swap, i've really started thinking about the rear axle again. For anybody who remembers the posts I made in the build thread, recall that my axle isn't centered in the wheel well. I've been thinkin on how to center it, cause according to the chart I have, no leaf springs on any common truck have dimensions I need, I don't want to build offset mounts or drill new holes for mounts, and I personally don't like offset zero rates like Crazy4x4rt used. So i'm done with leaf springs and I'm going to a 3 link rear. I'll post up more about the design in the next few days.

Luckily, although I have a lot less time now than when I started this project, I do have more money to put into the rear axle than I did originally.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; Apr 13, 2011 at 09:25 AM.
Reply
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

So for the 3 link rear, my initial plan I have in my head right now is to put a boxed crossmember on the frame right in front of where the frame bends up in the back (under the front leaf eye, where the e-brake cable retainers are), and weld on the lower link mounts to the frame at the crossmember and weld the upper link mount to the crossmember. I'm going to get this truss for the 14 bolt:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...s-_p_1493.html

I'll use it to mount the upper link bracket.

For the coil springs, I'll probably use these mounts:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1478.html

I just need to find coil springs to use. I don't want to use the same springs I used in the front cause they are made to hold up a lot of weight of the engine, etc., and the back of the truck is just too light. Maybe jeep springs will work, but I need to do more research.
 
Reply
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #3  
Crazy4x4RT's Avatar
Crazy4x4RT
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
Likes: 19
From: NM
Default

Damn thats going to be SICK! It's going to match the front really nice.

If you don't mind me asking how much have you put into the swap so far? How much do you think it all will be in the end? And time wise too.

By the end that will be a nice competition rock crawler.

For anyone that needs them here are the links to the threads.

Discussion Thread
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...on-thread.html

Project Write up
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...t-writeup.html
 
Reply
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #4  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

Yeah, I'm hoping it will do more to compliment the front than trying to deal with leaf springs... you probably know how much I can't stand leaf springs, Felipe!!

I really don't know how much I have in the swap so far. I spent $400 on the two axles, ~$500 on the front link parts and mounts, ~$170 on the front springs, ~$500 on the steering system. I spent money on the rear axle mounts and springs, but since I'm going with the 3 link, I won't count that money in the project build. So I guess I'm between $1500-1600 right now. The final price depends on the transfer case and driveshafts, but I probably need another $1000 in parts plus the transfer case and driveshafts. I still dont' know which transfer case to use behind the nv4500, but I'm thinking about using an Atlas if I can afford it when the time comes.

This project is definately much more expensive than a leaf spring SAS, but hopefully it will be worth it.

And thanks for posting up those links!! I was going to do it today cause yesterday I was posting these posts from my phone and it was a hassel to try and find the links.
 
Reply
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #5  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

I took a few minutes to draw the frame side 3 link mounts for the rear axle. I'm going to fabricate and weld in a new crossmember for the upper 3 link mount. The lower mounts are going to sit under the crossmember for rigidity.

(This is not an exact drawing of our frames... just a rough representation)
Name:  Rear3LinkFrameMounts.jpg
Views: 105
Size:  28.8 KB
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; Apr 27, 2011 at 05:12 PM.
Reply
Old May 18, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #6  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

I ordered most of the parts for the rear 3 link. I got:

Currie Enterprises:
6 2.5" Johnny Joints with threaded bungs and jam nuts (3 RHT, 3 LHT)
Total: $401.70

Ballistic Fabrication:
Truss for the 14 bolt
Frame Link Mounts (for the lower 2 links)
Lower Axle Link Brackets (for the lower 2 links)
Link tabs (for the upper link)
Coil Spring mounts
Total: $302.24

Metals Depot:
8' of 2" OD .25" Walled DOM
4' of 6" x 3" .120 Walled Rectangular Tubing
Total: $263.26

When I did the front 3 link, I never listed the prices of the parts, but its almost the same as for the rear 3 link. The differences are I had to get two different brackets for the upper link on the front. I still need the frame side coil spring mounts for the rear, (going to have them custom built from BallisticFabrication), track bars and mounts for the front and rear, and shocks. So if anybody wants to go with the 3 link setup, expect it to cost between $1200 and $1500 per axle in parts.

In the meantime while I'm waiting for the parts to arrive, I need to drop the gas tank and pull all the lines. I cannot use the factory gas tank because its in the way of the crossmember I need to fabricate.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; May 18, 2011 at 09:43 AM.
Reply
Old May 18, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #7  
Crazy4x4RT's Avatar
Crazy4x4RT
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
Likes: 19
From: NM
Default

Sweet! I can't remember, what did you do with the 2wd and the 408?
 
Reply
Old May 18, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #8  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

The 2wd project was completely scrapped. I sold the engine, transmission, frame and axle out of that truck and got all my money back on it. Now I have a very good condition complete body that I got for basically free.

Here's what I'm going to do...
Use the fenders off both trucks to widen the wheel wells for the 37s.
Use the beds off both trucks to widen the wheels wells for the 37s.
Use the doors and cab corners off the 2wd to replace damaged panels on the 4x4 (there is a LOT of body filler in them from when I painted it before).
Use the transmission tunnel off the 2wd (it has no holes for any shifter) to fill in the floor to relocate the holes for the transmission and transfer case shifters (since the nv4500 has a different shifter location).

I'm also going to keep all the glass and some other random parts for spares!

As for the 408... I still have the 360 on an engine stand and fully plan on finishing that project later down the road. Especially now that I have a transmission that can easily put up with the abuse!
 
Reply
Old May 18, 2011 | 03:25 PM
  #9  
Crazy4x4RT's Avatar
Crazy4x4RT
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,923
Likes: 19
From: NM
Default

Damn that is going to be A LOT of work. But it will be worth it!! Can't wait to see it done. Are you going to do it like the Baja fenders?
 
Reply
Old May 18, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #10  
95_318SLT's Avatar
95_318SLT
Thread Starter
|
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,839
Likes: 5
From: Apex, NC
Default

Yeah, its definately going to be a lot of work! But I won't be starting any of that body work until after the truck is driveable again (except the transmission tunnel). Right now getting the truck back on the road is my biggest concern! I just figure that once I start driving it, by the time I have the body work done to tuck the big tires, if it hasn't broken yet, then it will time trust it on some serious offroading.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:52 AM.