Best oil & filter for a 3.9?
It's about that time for my first oil change in this truck. Just wondering what you guys recommend.
10w30 (conventional) has been run in it and changed on a reg. basis by the bro-in-law.
Should I go synthetic or stay with conventional?
Best filter?
Truck has 142k on it and doesn't smoke or leak.
10w30 (conventional) has been run in it and changed on a reg. basis by the bro-in-law.
Should I go synthetic or stay with conventional?
Best filter?
Truck has 142k on it and doesn't smoke or leak.
High mileage vehicles should avoid detergeant in the oil. Your really worried about the intake/exhaust seals and general lubricity of the oil. The wider the range, the better the oil. Hence, 5-40 is technically better than 10-30. If your worried about carbon buildup, then I would recommend more frequent oil changes, like every 2000 miles until it clears up. Mopar filters are available at Walmart for 1/2 the price online. I think your filter will end in ****090. Another side item is where you drive the vehicle typically, Southern vehicles do not require as thin an oil as Northern vehicles.
i always keep with penzoil (cause it's industry standard in this area and free to me) 10w30 (conventional because i will not go more than 3k) and i will not absalutly will not use anything other than mopar or purolater filters. the purolater rep claims that its their filter made for mopar. and if you go to the dealer for your filter it's about 6 bucks around here just ask for m090 and they will know what you mean.
and if you are worried about valve stem seals and the such seeping then i recommend adding a qt of lucas. i used it on myne when i got it. it sat for a while and the seals dried out and let it start seeping. added that and in two days it was done. we tried it on a noisy lil neon of my buddys at work (we are trying all the products to see what works and what sucks) and hushed it up considerably. still has a lil piston slap but before it was a jackhammer.
if you have mechanical issues thought no additave will fix it.
if in a climate thats cold then as siggie said you will have to adjust your oil weight to match.
and if you are worried about valve stem seals and the such seeping then i recommend adding a qt of lucas. i used it on myne when i got it. it sat for a while and the seals dried out and let it start seeping. added that and in two days it was done. we tried it on a noisy lil neon of my buddys at work (we are trying all the products to see what works and what sucks) and hushed it up considerably. still has a lil piston slap but before it was a jackhammer.
if you have mechanical issues thought no additave will fix it.
if in a climate thats cold then as siggie said you will have to adjust your oil weight to match.
On an older motor I run 10w40. I run cheap brand oil because most oils are made from the same stock, and most cheapie oils are rebottled other name brand. I typically use Advance Auto 10w40, and ALWAYS use a Puralator filter. (12670 I beleive)
Thanks for the hints & tips guys.
I was a dedicated conventional Valvoline user with most of my previous vehicles. 10w40 mostly, for the hot Ga. weather.
My bro-in-law ran 10w30 in this Dakota for the life of this truck and changed it on a regular basis. No mechanical issues at all except for an occasional timing chain slap/tick.
I only have about 2500 miles on this oil and need to address an electrical issue, but I'll refer back to this thread when I do my change.
I was a dedicated conventional Valvoline user with most of my previous vehicles. 10w40 mostly, for the hot Ga. weather.
My bro-in-law ran 10w30 in this Dakota for the life of this truck and changed it on a regular basis. No mechanical issues at all except for an occasional timing chain slap/tick.
I only have about 2500 miles on this oil and need to address an electrical issue, but I'll refer back to this thread when I do my change.



