Does anyone know if it is possible to run old school on a magnum and run it with a carb

 

Yep



You must also change the intake, distributor and electronics.

 

Do I need to look for special order parts or are they old school 318 parts do you know of a list of what parts I would have to change

 

The Fuel Injection that came stock on the Magnum is better for performance and MPG. So if it is working properly it is best not to mess with it. If you wanted to swap to Carb just to FIX a problem, it is not work the time.

If your working on something that is custom that needs tons of work Carb might be okay.

You can buy an intake for Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 for carb new. And you can buy any 4 Barrel Carb to go with that intake, new or used. Then you can buy a new distributer coil to work with the carb setup.

 

LA parts are for the most part swappable, but there are important variations to be considered. The older intakes are bolted perpendicularly whereas magnum parts are bolted vertically. The heads can be drilled, but you are changing one cost for another. There are currently about 5 intakes that directly bolt on for streetability and light racing. I went to a parts yard and got an older distributor and it is a direct bolt on. The valvetrain is also different. The valves are 8mm as opposed to 3/8". I recommend that you go and look in the library for the typical rebuild books and other popular media that pertains to the subject.

 

I would have imagined you could swap over an la intake. I know a local mopar guy who has built MANY motors who build a stroked 318 6pk with magnum heads, and told me that for what I (at the time) wanted to do to my 318 in my wagon magnum heads were the way to go. (Then I wised up and left an all stock all original 30+ year old car alone.)

 

siggie just out of curiosity how big of a diff was it when you when to carb?

 

Still finishing it up. As far as ease of installation, I have found several issues required a little fabrication, but nothing major. If cost is an issue, it would be cheaper to repair what exists, but I was very selective with the components and price. I actually allready had an engine and was looking for a chassis to install it.

Something like this:

Distributor J/Y: $15
Intake M1, used: $169
Electronics for chrysler: $80
Misc wire: $30
Holley street avenger carb, used: $300
Gaskets: $25
Cable mods: $45
Fuel pressure regulator and assoc. lines/fitting: $120
Carb hat: $50

I am sure there are other things, but that is an approximation. Your experience will vary. As others have mentioned, the EFI is superior for streetability and mild racing, but my build was strictly for simplicity. I used the roller style block to garner a few extra ponies (probably around 15 or so), and have other mods better than stock. Such as cam and aluminum heads. I noted in a different thread that if I had to do it again, I would have bought the engine and installed it as is, and put the aforementioned parts on it. If I crack 400 trq, I will be happy. I have ran the engine to test it, and in a few days I will be driving it for shake down runs. I will be posting those results in:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ert-build.html

as it is a running thread of my build. If you were to buy all new parts, it would be double the posted numbers.