Fuel Pump
#11
09-26-2011, 01:28 PM
On my 3.9 v6 94 dakota extra cab I replaced the feed line out of the fuel pump is 18 inches of 5/16 nylon into 5/16 steel up to a flexible armored line with quick disconnect behind and below the eng block.
On the return line 18 inches of rubber fuel line to 3/16 steel up to just behind and below the engine block to another rubber fuel line.
I used a coil of 3/16 for the return line and made it in one piece
for the feed line I used straight 5/16 steel with double flair fittings and unions.I made it in two sections using a bender and matching the old line that was one piece.
Autozone sells a red 3 size bender that works well for this I was able to salvage both ends of the orig. feed line that were not rusted and double flaired these to the new line as they have special fittings (a ribbed end near the pump to connect to the nylon line) and a ring type fitting that goes into the quick disconnect on the armored flex line.
Autozone has the Nylon line and quick disconnect fittings by "Dorman" Co.
the output line of the fuel pump is 3/8 so you have to buy just the disconnect and put 5/16 nylon line on it (Dodge had to be different from all the rest here).A 10 ft coil of Nylon line is available at Autozone.Hope this helps let us know how you do and good Luck.
Here is how I connected the Nylon to steel line fron another post I made
Replacing fuel line on a 94 Dakota V6 3.9 It drove me nuts trying to connect the nylon line going to the barbed end of the original steel line that I was able to salvage.I finally found a method on (lsitech.com)"s forum under the fuel injection sub thread.It involves using a common caulking gun and one or 2 wooden blocks I made out of oak.go to the below link and scan down to see pictures of the method.Glad I am able to share this as my local dodge dealer no longer carries replacement fuel line bundles.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-in...l#post15319841
On the return line 18 inches of rubber fuel line to 3/16 steel up to just behind and below the engine block to another rubber fuel line.
I used a coil of 3/16 for the return line and made it in one piece
for the feed line I used straight 5/16 steel with double flair fittings and unions.I made it in two sections using a bender and matching the old line that was one piece.
Autozone sells a red 3 size bender that works well for this I was able to salvage both ends of the orig. feed line that were not rusted and double flaired these to the new line as they have special fittings (a ribbed end near the pump to connect to the nylon line) and a ring type fitting that goes into the quick disconnect on the armored flex line.
Autozone has the Nylon line and quick disconnect fittings by "Dorman" Co.
the output line of the fuel pump is 3/8 so you have to buy just the disconnect and put 5/16 nylon line on it (Dodge had to be different from all the rest here).A 10 ft coil of Nylon line is available at Autozone.Hope this helps let us know how you do and good Luck.
Here is how I connected the Nylon to steel line fron another post I made
Replacing fuel line on a 94 Dakota V6 3.9 It drove me nuts trying to connect the nylon line going to the barbed end of the original steel line that I was able to salvage.I finally found a method on (lsitech.com)"s forum under the fuel injection sub thread.It involves using a common caulking gun and one or 2 wooden blocks I made out of oak.go to the below link and scan down to see pictures of the method.Glad I am able to share this as my local dodge dealer no longer carries replacement fuel line bundles.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-in...l#post15319841
Last edited by qlty94; 09-26-2011 at 01:37 PM.
#13
10-30-2011, 09:42 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tonopah, AZ
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there are pros & cons to doing it both ways, I know when I replaced mine, I removed the bed. For some, dropping the tank can be tedious & cumbersome if it has between 1/2 to a full tank of gas, plus the hassle of sand,dirt, & other debris falling into your face as you remove the tank strap mounting nuts provided they aren't rusted out as well. I have done it both ways and I prefer removing the bed. Actually, you don't have to remove the bed all the way, just removed the 4 bolts holding down the bed, prop up the front of the bed by the fuel pump with a jackstand and it's super easy. Last time I dropped the tank, I had a spider fall in my left eye, (while I had the truck on a lift standing up) so again it's just personal preference.
I hate it when those spiders get the drop on me. I had to order a new fuel module from Amazon since it was on sale, and decided to test the difficulty of removing the bed myself. The bolts came loose with a 3/8 drive ratchet and a couple extensions, then jacked up the front with a 4x4 block of wood between the jack and bed giving me plenty of room to get the old module out.
i really, really, really hate spiders, so when the little bugger in the pic below crawled across my face, I took it personally. I shot it once with my 9mm, but at 2am, the blast just echoed throughout the sky, so I finished it off with a crossbow.
it was pitch dark where it had run off to, so that's why there are so many bolts impaling the ground next to it.
Why did I feel the need to shoot a spider, you ask?
Did I mention that I really, really, really, really hate spiders...especially when they're the size of my foot!
And here it is just after it ran across my face, tell me you wouldn't have thrown an incendiary grenade at it.
http://tonopahaz.com/Tarantula.avi
the good news is it forced me to spend most of today scrubbing the underside of the truck. I bet I get better mileage after spraying off 500 pounds of old mud.
Last edited by azvampyre; 10-31-2011 at 07:08 AM. Reason: first two pics and vid aren't theoretically relevant to dodge, but it IS Haloween, so...
