We have had this truck for about 5 years. It ran perfect up until a month ago or so, then it was parked in a new location on our farm and hasn't started since.

So here is the scoop, husband disconnected the battery to put a new one on the truck because over the summer it had occasionally gone dead if it sat for a few days. The battery wasn't the problem, the truck still drained the power out of the new battery. Then he messed with wiring, and it quit losing power and has kept a charge, or so it seams, we are stumped. He took the fuse out to the radio, hoping maybe that was the problem.

There is fire to the coil wire to the distributor cap, but nothing coming out of the cap to the plugs. The cap and rotor are new.

We replaced the crank shaft positioning sensor.

Wiring has been checked again.

Fuses have been checked.

The tack has tacked out to the maximum and it stays there.

If you hook the volt meter up to the coil, and turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and the ABS light come on for 2-3 seconds, and the volt meter reads 3 to 4 volts, then the lights click off on the dash, and the volt meter drops to 0.

And then if you go ahead and crank the engine over after all that happens, you get 5 amps to the distributor cap from the coil. If you let up, everything goes back to 0.

We need some suggestions of what to try next.

 

I'm not to sure if your trying to read the power to the coil correctly. Unplug the 2 wire connector to the coil hook up the meter and crank the engine, then you should get 12volts.

Do you have any check engine codes?

Did you check for fuel pressure and to see if all injectors are spraying?

A very common problem is the notorious power splices. Check the FAQ just a few posts above this one for the info.

 

check your hallfx/ crank position sensor at the back of your motor