Ok so I found the service manual on here. I tested the full temperature spectrum of the intake temp sensor and the coolant sensor. Both resistances were within the ohm specifications. So I guess ill put in a set of autolite plugs and get those Bosch +4's out of there and see what that does. If no dice I guess ill bite the bulet and buy a new pcm. Unless anyone else has a different idea. Will report back on the plugs tomorrow

Multiple electrode plugs aren't doing you any good on these trucks.
Another thing you might check is you see that your ignition rotor is good. If it's bent just a little, the spark could be jumping and grounding to the distributor shaft thus giving you barely enough spark to run.

Electricity follows the path of least resistance so if it's not 100% over the cylinders wire diode when it fires, theres a good chance it'll short to the shaft.
Just to be more clear.

The autolite 3923's seemed to help at first and then about 10 miles into the test drive run, it started misfiring worse than ever. I am completely baffled. I properly set the gap on all the plugs. The only thing left I could think of is to replace the pcm. And the cap and rotor appears to be in good condition.

You're not using excessive gas and oil are you?

Nope the oil stays completely full between changes. The plugs I pulled out looked very good not oil fouled or anything. Still no check engine codes. I'm out of ideas completely. It started running decent again this morning after driving a bit and then went back to misfiring 10 minutes later. Its intermittent and driving me crazy

Still can't find the issue. But the bad is that I just found a really bad spot in the frame that has rust holes and is very rotten when I was changing the oil yesterday. So I'm giving up on my beloved Dakota and probably will part it out in a year or so when the frame breaks lol

Hey guys sorry to bring this thread back up but after all this diagnosing. I still can't find the problem but a new symptom I found is that if I unplug the iac solenoid, the computer does not throw a check engine light/code. I know it should. And I get erratic voltage across the lead terminals that go to it. Does this mean the problem lays within the computer?

Say there ngt,,,,,,,,,did you ever get your dodge going?
Mine is the same year (1995) and I changed the motor about 7-8 years ago. Now all of a sudden I'm having issues where it won't start,,,,or when I do drive around the rpm's are so low tht when I turn a corner the motor dies. Couple questions. You said when you were having problems you were trying to set the timing by your timing light. Nowhere in my motor compartment is there anything showing what the timing should be set at. Do you remember way back then what it was ?
Also did you have to change the computer for yours to run? Anything that you can add to help me, please let me know.

the motor I changed only had 70K on it, and I might have put on an additional 10K since then. (I don't ride it much)
thank you

3.9 magnum, timing isn't adjustable. It is all controlled by the PCM. Turning the distributor only changes injector timing, not ignition timing.

Need to find out what's missing when it won't start. Fuel, or spark.