As my 2wd Dakota build continues, I am wanting to add power and efficiency to recoop losses from oversized tires (235/75R15) and the drag of a 2.5" lift and ladder rack. My truck has the 3.9 magnum with only 55k onit, so I think upgrades would be worthwhile.

Check out my list of mods soon to be installed (Awaiting delivery), and let me know if I am missing something.

What kind of gains can I expect to see? My Biggest Concern is with the Kegger mod, is worthwhile in this setup?

Here's my mod list:

Superlift Truspeed Speedometer Re-calibrator
K&N FIPK
New PCV, IAC, and Crankcase Breather
50mm Throttle Body
Kegger Mod with Aluminum Belly Pan
Nology Plug Wires (I've had great results on my Toytoas)
Autolite XP9324 Iridium plugs
JBA Headers
New Cat
Dynomax Catback system
New Motor and Tranny Mounts

Oh yeah, I hate posts with no pics. I think there should be a pic per every 20 words, so here is my contribution.





And this is how I found it:

 

Not gonna lie, I drove a 66 Ford F-100 around my parents as a wood hauler and work truck and it was spray painted a dull purple by the previous owner but I always told myself I thought it looked damn good and that I'd paint one of my trucks purple someday...so in other words, looks good haha

 

Yeah, I dig purple. I brought a pic of a Plum Crazy Purple Cuda and the paint guy matched it.

I had a 2wd 94 ex cab V8 before, but I got way into Toyotas over the years. Now that I have a Dodge again and am able to modify it, I am unsure of how these motors respond to upgrades. Really looking for some feedback and/or direction as to what works best.

I also live in California so I am curious if the Kegger mod or Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers will mess up emissions.

 

It does look nice and sharp. You never said what year it is.

The tire size is not much larger only an inch or so. The speedo shouldn't be to far off at all. Use a GPS to see how far off it is. Most phones now days can show your true speed. If it is off you don't need to use the speedo calibration unit, just do some math and get the correct speedo gear.

The best way to pick up more power is get lower gears in the rear end.

As for the Kegger it is worth it if you have the time, but don't expect much it works well with all the other mods put together. I would say the Kegger and the 1.7 rockers shouldn't affect your emissions.

 

My bad, it's a 92.

I looked up stock tire size for my truck and it said 2wd came with 195/75R15 (2.4" difference)or 205/75R15 (1.8" difference). I did some math and it's like 7-9 percent off. I think the speedo recalibrator will help my computer get back to normal. I also like the ability to adjust it to dial it in.

The roller rockers seem like a no brainer. Sounds like good power gains can be had. My only concern with those is the emissions and part failure. I had read that the aluminum ones can crack and send shrapnel throughout the oil. But, then I also see nothing but praise for the Harland Sharp stuff. I'm going back and forth about 1.6 and 1.7. Living in CA, the smog tests are pretty tight.

I think I'm going to see how these mods take and then decided if I need to step up the rockers.

I will consider gears. What set would work best with 235's and the v6 magnum?

 

The modified kegger and the HS 1.7 (recommended) will net you an increase and not effect your emissions as long as you just shorten the runners and leave the center divider with the EGR tube as is. Remove them and you'll have a problem with the EGR valve functions.

As for you plans for a 50mm TB, that's way too much TB on the V6 and it's going to fall flat one it's face on low end torque. All you need is a modified V6 TB and you'll see an increase in bottom end as well as more power up top.

 

Thanks for the info. I think im buying the throttle body and belly pan from you on eBay. Is that right?

So if 50 is too big, what size should I get?

 

I think you're probably talking about Brian (1999blkdakrt). If Brian has a stock EGR throttle body in stock he will be able to fix you up.

A stock V6 TB is 42mm at the base but chokes down to 39mm at the stepdown above the blades. Brian will remove the stepdown and open the bores up to a full 42mm which is exactly the size your V6 needs. Anything bigger and you'll start losing bottom end torque. When it comes to a V6 bigger is not always better.

 

Crazy, the guy I'm buying from said 50mm should be fine. I hope it's not to late to correct the order. I definitely don't want to kill my truck.

Would open exhaust and headers help to make use of the 50mm?

I found this chart about the F&B throttle body recommendations:

3.9L V6 - 48mm - Stock to Mildly modified V6
5.2L V8 - 50mm - Moderately to Heavily modified V6, Stock to Mildly modified V8
5.9L V8 - 52mm - Moderately modified V8
5.9L V8 - 52mm x 55mm - Heavily modified V8, 408 Stroker
5.9L V8 - 58mm - Heavily modified engines
4.7L V8 - 68mm - Stock to mildly modified 4.7L V8
4.7L V8 - 70mm - Moderately modified 4.7L V8
4.7L V8 - 72mm - Heavily modified 4.7L V8

So, I guess my question is, What mod puts you in the category of Moderate to Heavy modification? Are we talking turbos and superchargers or just opened up airways and more spark?

 

I don't know where you found that chart but you CAN NOT open a stock V6 TB up to 48mm...44mm is the max or you start cutting into the throttle shaft bearings. If you're going to go with after market heads and cam, install headers, remove the cats and go with full flow exhaust then go with the 50mm otherwise stay with the 42mm or you'll hate yourself when your truck falls on it's face on bottom end torque with anything larger. Been there...done that!