Surprisingly only 400W; just a component front stage (6.5" mid w/ seperate tweeter pod) Focal KRX2 with no subwoofers at the moment but a snare drum in the mids will take more amps than most woofer tones if they are high power handling mids. I have an 8" subwoofer lined up to go centered on the tranny hump under the dash for a nice SQ stage coming front in front of you 100%

I ran my errands without the stereo on this morning to make sure I was all topped off. When I came home I tested the battery with a multimeter and got 12.5V with the engine off, and 14.2V with the engine running. If I turn on the high beams, running lights, and blower motor on high I get 14.0V with the engine running. With a full load PLUS my stereo cranked way up I get a range of 13.5-14V then when I rev the engine up I get a solid 14V so my alternator is working well but I have no way of testing amps with my cheap multimeter. According to this link my load range is acceptable @ 13.5V http://members.shaw.ca/j_e_e_p/Altupgrades.htm

I want to move my ground location (green circles) the white wire is the current ground attaching to the water pump mount, the blue wire is where I want to move it to (the alternator case ground). No problem right? I assume they used the water pump mount to save 2ft of cable? The current battery positive cable is the yellow...it runs down the passenger side of the block and reappears on the drivers side, not sure if it goes though any electronics or it directly connects the alternator to the battery. If it does I would like to replace it with the red cable/line so both the positive and negative take the shortest path to the battery:

leav as is and if you want just add another...

Leave what the positive or negative? Honestly my battery terminals only accept three 1/0AWG cables so leaving the old one is not really an option.

The negative has a 1/0 going to the fender, a 1/0 going to the frame, and one left for the alternator/engine block...unless I use that 1/0 opening to go to the original water pump then patch a cable between the water pump and alternator case?? (double ring terminals on the water pump to "patch" over to the alternator.)

The positive has a 1/0 going to the amplifier, and a "cluster" of factory wires going to the engine/ecu, along with an open 1/0 terminal which I wanted to link to the alternator with 1/0 cable leaving only the ecu/etc wires in the factory gauge "cluster"

why in the world are you having to run that huge of cable??? a 2 ga or 4 ga would be fine; but i wouldn't go any lighter, with or without a stereo and yesI would stil leave what is there alone unless it is somehow damaged

Positiveeee or nagativeeee???

I need the 1/0G for my stereo, maybe overkill but it's a done deal from the positive to the amp so I'm just going to finish in 1/0G.

I would leave both of the original in place it wont hurt anything.

Of course cap is short for capacitor, everyone knows that. When used properly a good capacitor will condition the power into the amplifier by smoothing the ripple effect. I wasn't talking about a ground loop, I was hinting on the chance of high freq noise traveling into other sub systems of the truck (it can do some funny things), but I have no idea how you wired your system. Of course you cannot use a cap as a power source, which it seems like most people (including audio techs) think or have been conditioned to think by all the advertisment by car audio companies. It will probably be pointless to use a cap with the Big 3 (which it looks like you have done), higher amp alternator, and a bigger battery. There are a lot of opinions out there on car audio capacitors just go with what you feel is proper.

I'm sure one AGM battery will be enough w/ a higher amp alternator, but why not leave your options open .