After burning oil for several years it got to the point of 1qt/tank of gas. So I finally shelled out the money to have the plenum problem fixed. Bought the beefy plenum replacement as recommended. I thought my gas mileage was going to go back to what it once used to be (my truck used to do better than 20 on the highway), but instead it got worse. Looks like I'm down to about 15 mpg highway.

Then, last night, just as I'm pulling into my parking spot, the engine dies. No funny noises, no warning, just shuts off. When I try to start it I get a little ignition at first for a half second, then it dies and just cranks over and over as if there's no spark. I did some reading last night, and it seems like the wire splice issue is less likely for a 96, so I poked around near the coil. After moving the coil wiring harness around a little it started again. That might just be coincidence. Now the engine light is on.

Here's the kicker: I'm 7 hours from home and have no tools at all. I really need to get home tomorrow because I have an international flight to catch on Friday. I'm looking for some way to get my truck home without buying a whole new set of tools.

If it's just the coil, it seems like I might be able to replace that on the road and the part is easy to find, but is there any better way to tell (that doesn't require a lot of tools?). I'm not actually sure it's the coil, I just know I got the truck to start after playing around with the wiring harness (which is hard to see while the coil is still attached). I guess if I buy a few tools I can take the coil off and at least inspect the harness.

Thanks all. You guys have saved my turkey more times than you know, because 75% of my problems were solved without ever having to post!

 

on the mpg decrease what else was done with the plenum repair?
where abouts are you (beyond "7 hrs from home") someone else on the forum may live in the area that has tools and maybe some spare parts;
I do happen to have a (not sayin that this is "your" particular problem at the moment) computer that came from a 96 318/5 speed Dakota
1 year only brain box..... only year of that body style with OBD-II

I just had a situation with my 93 318 Dakota; I pulled the trans for a clutch job;
(before you start in the 5 speed was transplanted, yes I know that 318 Dakotas werent available with a stick til 94)
anyway I pulled the crank sensor to keep it from being broken in the process; I reinstalled it very last before I started the engine to try out the new clutch and the engine died. somehow the crank sensor snapped as it was an OE style all plastic one not an aftermarket style with teh metal bracket.....

3 things come to mind with a "it died suddenly" complaint on these trucks;
1) coil 2) crank sensor or 3) distributor pickup there has neen a run of bad dist pickups it seems lately among the various Dodge truck forums

On a (possibly) related note; how old are the cap rotor wires and plugs?
also did the person that did the intake job remove the distributor? did they re-set "sync" when they were done? (need a scanner to do so basically it's "setting the timing" on these engines..... contrary to what you may think you don't "time" this engime with a convential timing light

 

Thanks!

I was going to ask him to put in a new O2 sensor, but I forgot to mention it. AFAIK he did not do anything else.

I'm in North Chicago, IL. Near Waukegan.

Of your three options:
1) Coil - So I think it could be the coil, but I don't know if there's any way to verify without just buying a new one. Even buying a new one isn't really a big deal, much cheaper than a tow truck and/or a flight home.
2) Crank Sensor - I'm not sure if I will be able to find and/or fix it without tools.
3) Distributor Pickup - OK, where do I find it?

Rotor and cap were inspected during a tune-up in February by me. They both looked pristine, so I didn't replace them. The wires also looked good, so all I ended up doing at that time was replacing the spark plugs. The gaps were too large to measure with my gap gauge.

As far as the plenum job, I have no idea if her removed the distributor or re-set the sync.

Sorry I'm not doing all of the research I should right now. I'm on my lunch break and have to go back now, otherwise I would try to learn more about these things before asking dump questions. Thanks for your patience.

I'll be out of work at 5 Central. and I'll be sure to check here first thing. Thanks!

 

i say Distributor Pickup, inside the distributor. someone here can walk you thru it, i have never changed one. my old 90 had same issue and thats what it was.

 

Went to Advance. Scanned codes. Crankshaft position sensor. Sorry I didn't think to ask him the number. Can I do this without a lot of tools? Any how-to threads for this?

Hope I typed OK. This is from my phone.

 

Well, I have some time to kill. The truck decided not to start again. This time it's in front of Advance Auto Parts (who don't have the sensor, so it's not so lucky after all). I walked down the street to McD's because I know they have wifi. I'm hoping maybe something will change when it cools down.

That said, I downloaded the big repair manual. I'm impressed. Much better detail than Haynes.

 

crank sensor can be changed with a 1/2" open end. dist pickup is easy Remove cap n rotor dist pickup just "sits there" take it off set the new one on there and replace the cap n rotor then reconnect the electrical plug. seems like theres been a run on this part going bad in teh Dakota world lately.
Youre a couple hours north of me; if you were south of Chicago instead of north i'd be able to come by and help out; I am an hour south of Chicago myself.
This damn swing shift job is killing me.

Ive had a crank sensor cause me a bit of grief on a few of my Dodges as well; the one on my 97 4WD Ram did like yours is.
In your area there should be several parst stores in a short distance of each other one should have your part;
if you cant find one I'm sure that Advance location is like the one closest to me and gets deliveries from the warehouse every couple of hours.

and; I'll bet they have the A/T version of that sensor in stock;
I just had to replace that very part on my 93 due to my own stupidity; I somehow busted the one I had off when I put it back in after a clutch job.
Figures it was Sunday nite, after 7PM, at which time I have exactly ONE auto parts choice Useless Zone is the only place open at that time, and that's only til 8 or 9 so I had them order it and I had mine by 10AM Monday.
I then pulled my intake to reseal my plenum and upon pulling the dist cap I discovered that I had a pinched wire/taped up by the PO on my distributor pickup, so I replaced that too for peace of mind. Not that expensive.
I am on a 6 day rotation of graveyard shift so I am having a hard time sleeping during the day so I don't fall asleep at work; so that means no progress on my truck; about the 3rd or 4th nite I finally get myself "regulated" to working that schedule then I only have 2 left and back to 2nd shift for 6 more.... so itll be a couple days before I get to put my intake back on.... I'll be driving the Wrangler til I get around to puttin that intake back on (sorry for the off topic rant but I am looking for a better job as we speak; the only good thing about swing shift is having "bankers hours" free, for 2/3 of the time so I can go knock on potential new employers' doors).

All 3 of the things I mention can be affected by heat as the engine (and part in question) warms up.

 

Hey guys. I wanted to post a quick update. Thanks to all of your help, I was able to get my truck home yesterday. I read a bunch of other threads about the crankshaft position sensor and I found this youtube video:


Toward the end of the video the guy makes the sensor fail by wiggling the sensor wires. I figured, if he can make it stop working by messing with the sensor, maybe I can make it start working. So when the truck died on I-94 on the way into Chicago, I got in there and wiggled the sensor wires around a bit. They're not too hard to reach. Then it started up and I was on may way.

Had to repeat the same process a couple more times. I had to drive in the right lane the whole way so I'd be able to pull off if it acted up again, but it got me home and I won't miss my flight.

I'm about to leave again on another trip, so it's going to go to the mechanic and hopefully it will be all fixed up when I get back.

Thanks all! Couldn't have done it without your help.

 

the He11 with paying a mechanic; you diagnosed the problem proved it was the problem now all thats left is to change the bad part... youve already done the hard part.... save that hourly rate and markup on the sensor; order it, pic it up when you get home unscrew it unplug the wires repeat, done. and pocket the savings!