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What's the best/easiest way to pull the oil pan on a 93 V8 4WD?

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Old 09-19-2012 | 07:28 PM
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Default What's the best/easiest way to pull the oil pan on a 93 V8 4WD?

Hey guys. I got this 1993 V8 Magnum 4WD (ext cab) Dakota with 200K miles on it a few weeks ago and I've done a lot to get this thing up to spec and passing the emissions test for inspection. I've already replaced the IACV, TPS, EGR, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Injectors, Plugs, Wires, & Air Filter. Did an oil change too and the filter was extra heavy and the oil was super dark, previous owner probably went way over the due date for a change on more than one occasion.

Well, I have no Codes and not CEL, but my oil light started coming on and the oil pressure gauge shows absolutely nothing now. I'm also getting a very noticeable lifter noise and low idle. I'm suspecting the oil pump being worn or the pickup tube clogged with sludge so I need to pull the oil pan and take a look at it.

Can anybody give me the best and easiest way to remove the oil pan without pulling the whole engine out? I've already got the truck on stands and I've drained the oil, but I figured I would check with the experts here before digging in so I will know exactly what procedure to follow. I've already go the FSM from the sticky thread for the 95 model, but I can't for the life of me locate the section/s that detail oil pan/pump removal.
 
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Old 09-19-2012 | 11:59 PM
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Recently pulled my pump on my 92 5.2 4x4 for similar issues, I had to drop the front axle, remove the starter, the cover for the bell housing, the mount connecting the motor, to the axle, and disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman and idler arms. Took about 6 hours altogether to do my self, it sounds like a lot of work but it wasn't all that bad.
 
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Old 09-20-2012 | 11:03 AM
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Just as Arcaporale said. I did mine although it was a V6, the process is almost the same,

Just disconnect the CV axles from the axle (No need to remove from the hub, they have a little play in them)
Remove the front drive shaft (just the end that connects to the axle, you can push it out of the way.
Unbolt all the bolts for the axle support, that will let you drop the axle down.
To get to the oil pan, there are a few extra brackets you need to remove, kind of self explanitory once you start.
The steering linkage will be in the way, all i had to do was unbolt the idle arm on the passenger side frame and pushed it forward that allowed me to get to the oil pan.

There is no easier way, the from axle has to come out.
 
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Old 09-20-2012 | 08:53 PM
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Okay a few questions now that I've pulled off the crossmember/skid plate and looked around under there:

I noticed a flat end on both of the CV axles with about 6 bolts around each one, is this where I disconnect the CV axles from the middle section of the front axle? If so do I need to put the transmission in neutral to spin them around to access all of the bolts? I have the front end of the truck up on stands so I need to figure out if I need to put it in neutral so I can figure out how to safely keep it from rolling back off the stands while I'm under it.

Also I inspected the "joint" where the drive shaft connects to the front axle. I noticed one end of the joint has a funny shaped ring clip in the end and the other end has 4 small bolts. Do I need to remove all of these to disconnect the drive shaft from the front axle?

I'm not accustomed to working on these things, most of my experience comes from Honda's so this is a whole new game for me.
 
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Old 09-21-2012 | 09:40 AM
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I noticed a flat end on both of the CV axles with about 6 bolts around each one, is this where I disconnect the CV axles from the middle section of the front axle? If so do I need to put the transmission in neutral to spin them around to access all of the bolts? I have the front end of the truck up on stands so I need to figure out if I need to put it in neutral so I can figure out how to safely keep it from rolling back off the stands while I'm under it.
Yes this is where you disconnect, make sure you mark both flanges so you can line them up when you put it back together. If you have the front wheels off the ground, just rotate the wheel to get access to all the bolts. If they are not off the ground, you may have to raise the wheels enough to turn them. Taking off the front drive shaft first will make it alot easier, plus you wont have to put the truck into neutral as the axle will be disconnected from the drive train.

Also I inspected the "joint" where the drive shaft connects to the front axle. I noticed one end of the joint has a funny shaped ring clip in the end and the other end has 4 small bolts. Do I need to remove all of these to disconnect the drive shaft from the front axle?
You need to remove the four small bolts that hold the retaining straps on, I used a 1/4" ratchet, a long extension to get past the cross member and i think it is a 5/16" socket.
 
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Old 09-26-2012 | 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the help, got the oil pump replaced. After dropping the pan I found a wad of fibers (presumably from some nylon wire wrap from under the hood) clogging up the pickup screen. I also found about 2 handfuls of dirt in the bottom of the pan, ouch! Got it all cleaned up and replaced the pump. I've got full oil pressure again!!!
 
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Old 09-27-2012 | 02:07 PM
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Good deal! it goes together alot easier then taking it all apart,lol
 



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