12 second dakota =)
#1
12 second dakota =)
alright guys sense i have to do a lot of work to my dak i have decided to take it of the road till warm weather hits again im going to do a full build on it starting with a 360 this time and get rid of the 318 my goal is to make it a 12 second truck i dont care if its a 12.99999 i just want it in the 12s. how should i go about this.
#2
12 sec dak
the things i can think of r
1.mp pcm
2. harland sharp rr
3. full exhaust
4. 4.11 gears
5. a locker for the diff
6. slicks or drag radials
7. m1 intake ps do want to stay fule injected
8. 52 mm tb
9. eddlebrock aluminum heads
10. maybe bump up the compression?
11.mild cam
12. weight reduction
13. maybe tb spacer idk why they really dont do anything for fule injection i gues but what ever.
these are the things i can think of of the top of my head helpwould be awsome thankyou.
1.mp pcm
2. harland sharp rr
3. full exhaust
4. 4.11 gears
5. a locker for the diff
6. slicks or drag radials
7. m1 intake ps do want to stay fule injected
8. 52 mm tb
9. eddlebrock aluminum heads
10. maybe bump up the compression?
11.mild cam
12. weight reduction
13. maybe tb spacer idk why they really dont do anything for fule injection i gues but what ever.
these are the things i can think of of the top of my head helpwould be awsome thankyou.
#5
12s wont be easy in a truck. you will need at least 12" wide drag radials, 4.56 gears, built trans, high stall torque converter, and 400 hp minimum. The first 60 feet is where you will need to drastically lower your time to get anything lower than a mid-high 13 without a stroker kit, supercharger, turbo, or nitrous.
#7
As previously mentioned, it is a truck. Traction is your number one killer. Weight location is another. Slicks or decent DOT tires will give you about 2/10ths. Figure you need about 350+ torque. Gears (based on tire size) will put you through the traps at your peak torque. Remove all the crap you do not use/need and put 150lbs ballast over the rear axle. Nitrous IS NOT cheating. It is merely a different means to the same goal. I use nitrous myself, so I do not have to worry about maintenence on bearings, belts, screws, ect. however, given the nature of the chrysler engines, I would recommend a turbo injection system. It is similar in costs to a nitrous system, and does not shock the crankshaft as much. Your engine will cost 5-7k if your a wise shopper.
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#8
something i think you might also look into, instead of going with a trans like the NV3500, get a AX15 rebuilt to handle the torque. the lower gears will help you off the line quicker. i read in a thread on some other site that AX15s are used in Supras with 1000+hp and some people like to use them for hotrod builds. get one rebuilt so you are sure it can handle the torque, then let that baby fly....
#9
something i think you might also look into, instead of going with a trans like the NV3500, get a AX15 rebuilt to handle the torque. the lower gears will help you off the line quicker. i read in a thread on some other site that AX15s are used in Supras with 1000+hp and some people like to use them for hotrod builds. get one rebuilt so you are sure it can handle the torque, then let that baby fly....
As for the OP, the only thing I can say is: You are going to need money. And LOT'S of it!
#10
well i went down tho the machine shop and my buddys uncle owns it what he told me was its not going to be easy but not that hard he did mention to me that traction is going to be the main issue. he wants me to get a 360 mag block and i think he said we need at least to put a cam and aluminum heads are the two main things that will get me there another thing he said was weight dose any body know where i can get fiberglass panels for a 92 to 95 dak? also what type of heads would you recomend and what cam. im also thinking about upgradeing to a 9.25 rear and getting the axles shortend to the length of a 8.25.
Last edited by dakotakid17; 10-26-2012 at 06:08 PM.