Engine issues of some sort....
#1
Engine issues of some sort....
Hi everyone,
I could use some help with my 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9 liter V6 4x4 - engine issues.
First I should mention I have all new spark plugs and wires, cap&rotor, IAC unit is only a year old, pcv valve working properly and has been cleaned, and the oxygen sensor is only about a month old (Bosch-exact fit replacement).
I have assorted issues with my engine. Sometimes it starts instantly within a second, takes about 1 revolution of the engine and bam, it's running. OTHER times, embarrasingly, it takes 10 seconds or more for the starter to get it running and turn it through the rough idle for a few seconds till it rev's up then goes down to idle and stays there. Another issue is even during normal driving it has less power then it used to a couple years ago. Sometimes I'll be driving along and I'll feel a sudden power loss and look down and the check engine light is on. I can turn the truck off, let it sit, turn it back on and drive it and the check engine light might not come back on for hours, even days.
If anyone has experienced these things and has some suggestions, please let me know!!
Thanks.
I could use some help with my 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9 liter V6 4x4 - engine issues.
First I should mention I have all new spark plugs and wires, cap&rotor, IAC unit is only a year old, pcv valve working properly and has been cleaned, and the oxygen sensor is only about a month old (Bosch-exact fit replacement).
I have assorted issues with my engine. Sometimes it starts instantly within a second, takes about 1 revolution of the engine and bam, it's running. OTHER times, embarrasingly, it takes 10 seconds or more for the starter to get it running and turn it through the rough idle for a few seconds till it rev's up then goes down to idle and stays there. Another issue is even during normal driving it has less power then it used to a couple years ago. Sometimes I'll be driving along and I'll feel a sudden power loss and look down and the check engine light is on. I can turn the truck off, let it sit, turn it back on and drive it and the check engine light might not come back on for hours, even days.
If anyone has experienced these things and has some suggestions, please let me know!!
Thanks.
#2
First of all check the CEL code to see what the computer is telling you is wrong. It is easy to check the codes, turn the key on and off 3 times then count the CEL flashes. The FAQ has a list of the codes.
Next is to check your fuel pressure during those slow startups. Sounds like the check valve is draining the pressure back into the tank, causing a long startup while the fuel pressure has to build back up. Also low pressure could be your power loss issue, bad pump clogged filter and/or regulator.
Next is to check your fuel pressure during those slow startups. Sounds like the check valve is draining the pressure back into the tank, causing a long startup while the fuel pressure has to build back up. Also low pressure could be your power loss issue, bad pump clogged filter and/or regulator.
#3
Thanks crazy.
So I checked all of that out and with the limited info. in that section, I'm guessing if you have multiple codes it will do one sequence then the next until done, is that right?. If so, Here's what I got and in this exact order: 33 "A/C clutch relay circuit short or open condition detected" , 23 "Intake air temp sensor signal outside acceptable range" , and 25 "Idle air control motor circuit short or open condition detected".
Odd I would have all 3 problems though I have been letting stuff slide due to....well not being rich, lol. Is it possible one thing could be responsible for all 3 codes? Like bad ECM/PCM or bad connection with the ECM/PCM or bad wiring?
So I checked all of that out and with the limited info. in that section, I'm guessing if you have multiple codes it will do one sequence then the next until done, is that right?. If so, Here's what I got and in this exact order: 33 "A/C clutch relay circuit short or open condition detected" , 23 "Intake air temp sensor signal outside acceptable range" , and 25 "Idle air control motor circuit short or open condition detected".
Odd I would have all 3 problems though I have been letting stuff slide due to....well not being rich, lol. Is it possible one thing could be responsible for all 3 codes? Like bad ECM/PCM or bad connection with the ECM/PCM or bad wiring?
#4
#6
Ok, only code that shows up is 32. I double checked this time. (f-flash) 1f - 2f then 3f - 2F then 5f -5F then no more flashes. So 32** EGR Solenoid circuit short or open condition detected. I'm not yet fully familiar with my entire engine yet, I actually thought the EGR valve was the round piece with the hose sitting on top of the drivers side valve cover. What is that btw? I know the PCV valve is on the passenger side.
I'll google or lookup on this forum what exactly the Dodge Dakota EGR valves look like and where they are located unless you can shoot me a quick link. I heard you can try cleaning them out to fix it so I'll try that and if not do a EGR delete or spend the $80+/- for a new one. Cleaned one on my old chevy blazer I had but the one on that 4.3V was entirely different animal with some parts on it that look nothing like a dakota's.
Thanks for the help. FYI my dakota looks just like yours minus the mods you've done. (1995 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9liter V6 SLT - Emerald Green Pearl).
I'll google or lookup on this forum what exactly the Dodge Dakota EGR valves look like and where they are located unless you can shoot me a quick link. I heard you can try cleaning them out to fix it so I'll try that and if not do a EGR delete or spend the $80+/- for a new one. Cleaned one on my old chevy blazer I had but the one on that 4.3V was entirely different animal with some parts on it that look nothing like a dakota's.
Thanks for the help. FYI my dakota looks just like yours minus the mods you've done. (1995 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9liter V6 SLT - Emerald Green Pearl).
#7
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#8
Wait if you are saying the round piece on top of the drivers side valve cover inside a rubber grommet which is molded into the valve cover is the EGR valve, it only has one big hose going into it from the air cleaner. Unless you mean also check all the hoses and wires in the engine bay. I couldn't seem to find a picture to verify what it looks like, otherwise I wouldn't need to ask.
#9
No he didn't say where the EGR is. The EGR is located on the Pass. side rear of the intake manifold back by the distributor. There is a tube running from the passenger side exhaust manifold to the EGR valve... The Dakota EGR is much smaller than the S-10's and has a vacuum line that you should check before you remove the valve because they are a SOB to remove without breaking bolts.