Not all transmissions and bell housings come out separately. It's very common to remove them as one piece with the transmission (which they often are). If the transmission will move back 3 inches, you're pretty much there.

Did you remove the clutch master cylinder (don't disconnect the hose, just take off the whole cylinder and lat it to the side)? Did you also get all the bolts that go in from the front (1 behind the oil filter, a couple in the sheet metal dust cover, etc.)? How about the shifter?

Once you can move it back 3 inches, there shouldn't be anything holding it. In fact, if you can pull it out a couple more inches, it should drop straight down. Maybe a wire is still attached? (O2 sensor, speedo cable, etc.?)

Not sure how to help you here. It really sounds like you almost have it.

 

I agree it sounds like you are close just take a look around and make sure everything is disconnected. If you're pulling it out three inches it can't have much more to go.

Just don't force it, it should slide out very easy once you have the bell house unstuck from the block. Just find what is still attached.

 

did you take the shifter out of the top? sounds like as far as you'd be able to move back if thats still mounted. you gotta then drop the back a bit and back just a little bit and out it comes

 

Woah woah woah, do you still have the driveshaft connected or am I misunderstanding what you said? If so that is your problem. Is it an extended cab (w/ a carrier bearing) or a reg cab? I hope I am just misunderstanding your post, but if not you need to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end (just 4 bolts) and then the carrier bearing if it is an extended cab, and the slip yoke will slide out of the tail of the trans.

Otherwise if I misunderstood then it seems like something simple is holding it up... like a wire that runs over the top of the trans, the shifter, or the starter. Just take a good look around with a flash light.

 

We got the drive shaft off of the back end of the transmission but its still connected to the differential in the rear axle housing. I didn't see any need to completely remove the drive shaft just to take out the transmission. But, if we were to tow it to a real mechanics shop we couldn't have the front end of the drive shaft flopping around under there could we? I'm already feeling like one of the 3 Stooges as it is! ;-Þ

 

I'm not sure if the clutch master cylinder is still there or not. As for the alinement tool there's one in the clutch kit we got for it.
The shifter is removed and laying on the floor inside the cab. We have everything we could find disconnected from it.
There does appear to be two lines that might be the fuel lines that run behind and between the bell housing and the firewall. From above the engine looking down on drivers side, there's 2 silver insulated lines about 5/16" dia. that go from the fuel injection rails or tubes? down between the bell housing and the firewall of the cab. When trying to pull the transmission towards the rear, the bell housing catches on these 2 lines & against the firewall.
The last I saw of it was Saturday night when I was leaving, Joe was looking for a bigger pry bar to force the transmission back further. He had decided that since he couldn't find what was keeping it from coming out, the answer was to get a bigger pry bar and force it.
Since the Superbowl was a little more important yesterday ;-) I didn't make it over to see how it was going. I'll get back to it with him when he gets home from work today.
So thanks y'all for all the suggestions and other information.
If we can get this thing put back together close enough to right and without too many extra parts left over so that it will once again move under its own power,,,, it will be a bloody miracle! :-}

 

Ok, I figured I was just missing something. Just confused by the way you worded it I guess. You guys had the jack under the trans trying to keep it level when sliding it back right?