E-fan upgrade & steering cooler
#31
A 4cyl? That is kinda shady unless it was also used on their larger engines. Any idea if they are high or low draw motors? What gauge wire comes off the motors?
#32
Respectful advice: Take a step back and really consider your entire modification policy. Figure out what you want out of your truck, then figure out what it will take to achieve that goal. You're talking about adding extra systems and fans and coolers and huge truck transmissions and rear ends and lifts and lowering and standalone engine management and things that don't appear to be necessary (or appear contradictory) based on your stated goals.
I had a vehicle that I built in that manner, adding stuff just because I could, and I ended up selling it because it was so modified that it was no longer useful for my intended purpose, and many of the modifications I did canceled each other out or didn't compliment each other.
#33
I know exactly what I want, always have. The only time I did not was the first few months when I spoke about lifting it, otherwise hefty transmission-5.9L Mag-slightly lowered-engine management might be necessary if you realize what I have now-I want extra fans because I do not want the clutch fan and it will be going on the V8 swap anyway.
Not sure if that was all mentioned here on this thread, and if I never stated my goal then how is this all not necessary in relation the the goal that was never stated I guess?
I will look at those three makes and models and check their wiring gauges.
Not sure if that was all mentioned here on this thread, and if I never stated my goal then how is this all not necessary in relation the the goal that was never stated I guess?
I will look at those three makes and models and check their wiring gauges.
#36
My problem came from reading lots of different directions. I came into this forum partway through your build, so I read something about 6spd transmissions, lockers, custom diffs, lifts, lowering, standalone engine management, custom gauges, custom stereos, custom headlights, lots of different suspension stuff, e-fans consisting of anywhere from one to four fans... I will admit to being confused, but like I said - it's your truck and I won't butt in again.
I thought I would be helpful, having gone through much of the same thought process in the past.
I thought I would be helpful, having gone through much of the same thought process in the past.
#38
Cool down (stand in front of the fan) guys!
The 2000 Contour fan I used was from Ebay, it's an brand new aftermarket replacement for the oem. About $50, It was listed for 4 or 6 cylinder engines, was dual fan, and I'm guessing that the Ford engine management system had them working separately--one to keep the coolant cool, the other started when the A/C engaged.
I changed the wiring on the fans so that both fans come on at the same time, so that actually I doubled the cooling power of the system used on the Contour. Wired with 12 gauge wire, and the Flex-a-lite controller uses a 30 amp (sounds light doesn't it?) that starts the fans @ 60% of full speed and goes to 100% at 10 degrees over the set temp (on mine the set temp is 195F.) I have the one that has a temp probe that you stick in between the radiator tubes--mine is just under the return hose inlet pipe on the upper left of the radiator. Did I mention that the set point is adjustable? All wiring is shielded with those plastic (red!) split tube things you can get at O'Reilly. The ignition trigger circuit is wired off the fan relay spot in the relay & fuse box just aft of the battery, supply wiring and grounds run directly off the battery.
Some details, I'm running a '96 fairly high miles 5.2, automatic, 4wd with the stock & original radiator. I use little oil, and leak none (no coolant leaks, either!) 195F thermostat, new water pump, all new hoses; I carry extra fuses, listen to my engine, and watch the gauges. I live in Tucson, which is not as hot as Phoenix, but it has been as high a 108F already, and I've had the truck in traffic in 104F weather.
I believe in replacing worn parts before they fail, I have a radiator in my future. I haven't had any issues, but unsorted and cobbled together, an electric fan setup has the potential to destroy an engine. Over building is a necessity.
I haven't seen any increase in mpg or noticeable increase in power. And when the fans kick in the noise level is at least as high as with the stock, clutch driven engine fan. I think the e-fans do at least as good a job as the stock fan. (And no, I haven't gotten rid of the stock fan, tho the shroud is long gone.)
The 2000 Contour fan I used was from Ebay, it's an brand new aftermarket replacement for the oem. About $50, It was listed for 4 or 6 cylinder engines, was dual fan, and I'm guessing that the Ford engine management system had them working separately--one to keep the coolant cool, the other started when the A/C engaged.
I changed the wiring on the fans so that both fans come on at the same time, so that actually I doubled the cooling power of the system used on the Contour. Wired with 12 gauge wire, and the Flex-a-lite controller uses a 30 amp (sounds light doesn't it?) that starts the fans @ 60% of full speed and goes to 100% at 10 degrees over the set temp (on mine the set temp is 195F.) I have the one that has a temp probe that you stick in between the radiator tubes--mine is just under the return hose inlet pipe on the upper left of the radiator. Did I mention that the set point is adjustable? All wiring is shielded with those plastic (red!) split tube things you can get at O'Reilly. The ignition trigger circuit is wired off the fan relay spot in the relay & fuse box just aft of the battery, supply wiring and grounds run directly off the battery.
Some details, I'm running a '96 fairly high miles 5.2, automatic, 4wd with the stock & original radiator. I use little oil, and leak none (no coolant leaks, either!) 195F thermostat, new water pump, all new hoses; I carry extra fuses, listen to my engine, and watch the gauges. I live in Tucson, which is not as hot as Phoenix, but it has been as high a 108F already, and I've had the truck in traffic in 104F weather.
I believe in replacing worn parts before they fail, I have a radiator in my future. I haven't had any issues, but unsorted and cobbled together, an electric fan setup has the potential to destroy an engine. Over building is a necessity.
I haven't seen any increase in mpg or noticeable increase in power. And when the fans kick in the noise level is at least as high as with the stock, clutch driven engine fan. I think the e-fans do at least as good a job as the stock fan. (And no, I haven't gotten rid of the stock fan, tho the shroud is long gone.)
#39
After much thought why go against Chrysler & Mopars fleet of engineers?
This is my truck next to my grandfathers 1-year only limited production Grand Cherokee (5.9L Magnum) it has the same engine as the 5.9 R/T Dakota/Durango/Ram/Van and as far as I can find through research they used the same radiator in the 5.9-GC as they did in the 5.2-GC and the same probably goes for Rams and Dakotas (same radiator for all V8s regardless of size 5.2/5.9) right?
Here is the back of the radiator on the Jeep it uses a stock electric fan, I have not looked into the load it draws yet but it has three wires so I'm not sure if that means two speeds or if it has a digital resistor and is variable speed but it must efficiently cool a Magnum V8:
This is the radiator in my Dakota, not only is it shot but I will be dropping in a 360 Magnum so it needs to be replaced anyway. Notice the light shining though the slots on the left of the rad? All unused space, my radiator measures 24" wide by 20-22" tall and the Jeeps radiator measures 28" wide by 20" tall:
This is my old radiator core support before the collision it still had the blocking tab on the right of the radiator and the new core support I installed has it removed as you can see from the internal picture above. The radiator from the Jeep fits vertically but it's 4" wider which really is not that far from the realm so if you look where the core support descends in toward the radiator it is 27.5" from side to side (the point where it stops descending and goes flush again)
This is what it would look like with the flush area cut out after it stops descending and @ 27.5" that is only a quarter inch on each side being covered! I am going to try this and run it with the 3.9-LA until the engine swap, there would be quite a bit of extended cooling surface for the engine to work with:
This is my truck next to my grandfathers 1-year only limited production Grand Cherokee (5.9L Magnum) it has the same engine as the 5.9 R/T Dakota/Durango/Ram/Van and as far as I can find through research they used the same radiator in the 5.9-GC as they did in the 5.2-GC and the same probably goes for Rams and Dakotas (same radiator for all V8s regardless of size 5.2/5.9) right?
Here is the back of the radiator on the Jeep it uses a stock electric fan, I have not looked into the load it draws yet but it has three wires so I'm not sure if that means two speeds or if it has a digital resistor and is variable speed but it must efficiently cool a Magnum V8:
This is the radiator in my Dakota, not only is it shot but I will be dropping in a 360 Magnum so it needs to be replaced anyway. Notice the light shining though the slots on the left of the rad? All unused space, my radiator measures 24" wide by 20-22" tall and the Jeeps radiator measures 28" wide by 20" tall:
This is my old radiator core support before the collision it still had the blocking tab on the right of the radiator and the new core support I installed has it removed as you can see from the internal picture above. The radiator from the Jeep fits vertically but it's 4" wider which really is not that far from the realm so if you look where the core support descends in toward the radiator it is 27.5" from side to side (the point where it stops descending and goes flush again)
This is what it would look like with the flush area cut out after it stops descending and @ 27.5" that is only a quarter inch on each side being covered! I am going to try this and run it with the 3.9-LA until the engine swap, there would be quite a bit of extended cooling surface for the engine to work with:
#40
According to this it is a 2 speed fan motor:
The fuse box says there are two fuses for the cooling fan; a 60A and a 20A so my impressions are a different fuse for the two different speeds?
I removed both the fuses to find that the 20A is not even in use! There is only 1 prong so no circuit is being made through the 20A fuse...
I let the engine warm up until the fan came on at idle then pulled the 20A fuse and it did nothing but the 60A killed the fan. After the fan was running at warm idle I put the AC on and the fan did not get any louder, same goes for if you turn on the AC before the engine is warm the fan goes right to high speed so something might be wrong here. At least I know I need a fan controller that supports at least 50A
This is another photo of what it would look like if I cut around both edges:
The fuse box says there are two fuses for the cooling fan; a 60A and a 20A so my impressions are a different fuse for the two different speeds?
I removed both the fuses to find that the 20A is not even in use! There is only 1 prong so no circuit is being made through the 20A fuse...
I let the engine warm up until the fan came on at idle then pulled the 20A fuse and it did nothing but the 60A killed the fan. After the fan was running at warm idle I put the AC on and the fan did not get any louder, same goes for if you turn on the AC before the engine is warm the fan goes right to high speed so something might be wrong here. At least I know I need a fan controller that supports at least 50A
This is another photo of what it would look like if I cut around both edges: