The stocker PS cooler I mentioned is already outfitted with the pressure lines that go from the rack to cooler to pump.

 

Regarding the cooler, here's my 2 cents: If you have never had a problem with your power steering fluid temp, and your driving habits do not put undue strain on your power steering system, I would refrain from adding another potential failure point to the system. I'm a big fan of keeping things as simple as possible, and AFAIK the PS pumps in these trucks do not have a habit of failing anyway.

 

It's too bad the PS cooler you mentioned is steel though.

I do NOT have a 4banger I have the 3.9L but was told the fan could still free up a few horses although I can see this fan running on a lawn tractor and not loosing any HP on a 10 horse idk.

I think I would rather spend the $ on a new controller than a new fan, wrecks with low mileage are to be found...I can look at 2010+ sport luxury cars who knows what I will find.

It's not so much slow speed turning with a payload as it is cooler overall fluid extending the life of the rack seals and pump itself. My pump failed at 70k and had to be replaced, a PS cooler is pretty simple if done correctly and if they offered them then I am not reinventing the wheel here.

 

Don't expect any noticeable HP or MPG increase vs a fully functioning fan clutch. Although you wont feel much it is worth it if done properly, and with the V6 you will have a TON of room to fit it vs the V8's. If you ever felt your fan turn on and off then you know the feeling with-out an engine driven fan. I have written a great post on this swap. Here is the link as well as a good 10 others in the FAQ2. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-fan-swap.html

 

I just bit the bullet and picked up the Flex-A-Lite controller mentioned by Brian (FaL model 31165)... $115 shipped off eBay. I have a VDO dual fan from a Mercury Mariner arriving from Amazon ($35 shipped) - if it doesn't fit, it's free shipping back to Amazon and I will go with the same fan as Brian... And be e-cooling for $150 flat. I ain't looking for the HP so much as the ability to do afterrun and have it come on with the AC.

 

Thanks you crazy ****, half my reason is cleanliness the other half is preparation for the 5.9L so the rad I swap in along with fan(s) must be able to cool a large V8.

 

The big 8 will need quite a bit more air and coolant flow than the 6 - I don't know what the capacity of your radiator is currently, but you may need something larger for the 8. If you size your radiator properly, you'll be able to get away with a fan system that will be able to give you the air flow you need and use less than 30 amps (this seems to be the breakpoint beyond which you go to some fairly high volume fans like the Ford Taurus, Lincoln, etc.). Programmable controllers for the high volume fans will sit around $300. Sizing the cooling system as a whole (fan & rad), you will be able to install everything once and swap engines later knowing it will all work with the larger engine.

 

Right on man, this is exactly the plan. I am not too worried about the amps my electrical system is up to date (beefy battery and a 130A - 1/0G grounds, etc.)

Ya know what...maybe a larger fan is better...a larger fan can technically spin slower and deliver the same CFM as a smaller one at a higher rpm so the more I think a large fan may be quieter.

 

When it comes to the amperage needed to start some of these fans (like the Ford fans - Taurus, Lincoln, etc.), it's not your alternator/battery system that needs looking at, it's the fan controller. If you get a controller designed for use in a low to mid range fan, it will melt trying to run something like the Taurus fan in high speed. If you choose relays for fan control, you'll need somewhere around 75 amp relays plus some protection circuitry to run the Ford Fans and if you choose the programmable controller, you'll need something like what Painless offers for these fans.

The start-up/inrush current is only there for a very short time (inrush and running current values for these fans are available on line), but it will affect things like relay contacts, switching electronics in the controllers, and interconnection wiring.

 

I see, it's the surge. Well can't this be easily fixed by just connecting 12v lawn equipment starting solenoids to the output on the fan controller??

We drove a kids powerwheel around my neighborhood with the RC system from a cheap RC car combined with starting solenoids and it allowed the use of high powered drill motors in the power wheels gear boxes to be controlled from a cheap RC transmitter and receiver it's just there is no speed control it's on/off.