Okay so I think I have an issue with my airflow.
At low speeds she sputters like shes about to die and at fast speeds she will do it once or twice.
What you guys think?

 

First off, do these problems appear as soon as you run the engine or after it has warmed up? Until the coolant temp sensor signals the computer the engine is warm, the computer (PCM) runs things in "Open Loop" without sensor input, it uses preprogrammed settings. Once the engine warms up it observes the sensor signals and adjusts the fuel/air and timing accordingly, this is " Closed Loop". If you see a difference in behavior once the engine warms up, that should indicate the coolant temp sensor is operational.
A sensor the PCM monitors that can commonly cause idle problems is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Devices the PCM operates that are likely to affect idle performance are the Idle Air Controller (IAC) and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve.
Have you checked for any codes? Is your vacuum system leak tight?

 

my computer doesnt read anything. I just got the truck and I have come to notice the old owner messed with all the wires...i checked to see whats going on but cant get a computer reading. and it sputters all the time when i go slow even after warming up. and my thermostat gauge doesnt work. same with my gas gauge. i threw a new thermostat in hoping i would fix that issue and it didnt. so im thinking i have a wiring issue there.

 

What. pray tell, leads you to conclude the wires have all been messed with. If true, my next move would be to obtain a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for my year truck (ebays' a good start). You'll find schematics for the electrical system which will give you a prayer of getting back to stock. Most help you'll get here assumes there's some commonality between your truck and the rest of the Dakotas on Planet Earth. For that reason and to protect your sanity, I believe you need to get the wiring harness back to normal.
Speaking of EGR valves, I suggest you pull yours and hook a vac pump up to the transducer. A bad diaphragm in the transducer would constitute a major vacuum leak and also mean your EGR is inoperative. Either one will cause your ride to idle rough.
Just to make sure we're on the same wavelength, by check codes, I mean turning the key on-off-on-off-on within three seconds and letting the PCM say its piece. If you are correct about the wiring, the PCM (computer) may well be on the fritz due to the wiring issue.
Your Temp gauge gets its input from the temp sender unit located behind the alternator, not the thermostat. There are two temp sensors. Looking at the front of the engine, the gauge one is on the left and the PCM sensor is on the right. This is true for both 3.9 and 5.2 liter.
The sender for the gas gauge is in the tank, on the pump assy. There are separate wires from the tank for the gauge, pump, ground and "low fuel" lamp (four wires total). A bad or weak pump will make the truck run like doo-doo.
Would you try to build a tree house without a hammer and saw? At minimum, what you need here are a vacuum pump with gauge, fuel pressure guage, DVM (twenty dollar variety) and FSM. I find Chilton and Haynes both nearly a complete waste of money, particularly when it comes to electrical (and it always seems to come to electrical). I have both and never resort to them. An OBD1 reader would also give you a huge leg up. The small, six pin Dodge OBD1 connector is dangling from the harness along the firewall on the passenger side, near and below the blower resistor.

 

that helps alot thanks. but i think i got a OBD2. didnt they make the switch after the 95? i drive the 96. the last year of the first generation. and as for my wires....some are cut and spliced to each other. total hell under the dash. I think the last owner did that so he can hook up a stupid radio. My guess is a stupid teen lol