Brake Proportioning Valve?
Hello, well with redoing my brakes it is unfournate that I may need to order a brake proportioning valve. However, I am having trouble obtaining valid part number to locate one. My truck is a 90 Dakota 2wd with a 3.9L V6. I am hoping someone here could help. Thank you.
Okay, I found the part numbers. Anyways, the is simply because of rust. The truck while it has low miles for its age also sat for a long time. In fact, before I purchased the truck; it was in storage for 4 years. I know that when I got it that the emergency was gone to the grave. But, when I drove the truck it was fine until I was driving it home from a family outing. The Brake and the ABS light came on and then I noticed it was pulling from one side to the other.
Since I was having surgery I figure and was truly hoping it was just the front brakes and could get the truck fixed while I was recovering. Nope, I get a call saying I need everything from front to back including a E-Brake Pedal Assembly which I got lucky and found a nice one for a fair price I guess. I have to even have brake lines replaced too. So, I just hate it because I've only drove the truck a hundred miles lol and now it's down for expensive braking issues. I am thinking that where it was sat for periods at a time is the culprit and probably moisture in the lines.
Since I was having surgery I figure and was truly hoping it was just the front brakes and could get the truck fixed while I was recovering. Nope, I get a call saying I need everything from front to back including a E-Brake Pedal Assembly which I got lucky and found a nice one for a fair price I guess. I have to even have brake lines replaced too. So, I just hate it because I've only drove the truck a hundred miles lol and now it's down for expensive braking issues. I am thinking that where it was sat for periods at a time is the culprit and probably moisture in the lines.
Last edited by 90dakotaconvertible; Oct 5, 2013 at 06:39 AM.
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I see, sorry to hear you had that surprise. I'm rebuilding a convertible and I just replaced all the rusty lines in the front half of the truck. They only last so long, especially where salt is used on the roads in the winter (or with moisture in the lines!). I used "poly-coated" lines, the coating is supposed to help them resist rust, you might want to ask whomever does your brakes if they can use that. Also, not to beat a dead horse here, but my proportioning valve looked like a rusty blob until I chiseled away the stuff that was covering it. It was fine, the thing is a solid cast piece, very thick and not likely to rust thru - just sayin'.
Here's a picture I took when re-doing my lines, it shows the proportioning valve and the green poly-coat brake lines:
o, I just hate it because I've only drove the truck a hundred miles lol and now its down for expensive braking issues. I am thinking that where it was sat for periods at a time is the culprit and probably moisture in the lines.
Here's a picture I took when re-doing my lines, it shows the proportioning valve and the green poly-coat brake lines:
Thanks ragged89. Anyways, I'm hoping I can reuse the old one. I did find one online brand new supposedly but, we'll see if he order goes through. As of the 5th it was still being recieved. Another idea I had and maybe someone could chime in. I thought about using one from a later 1st gen Dakota if it would work? Or how about one from a 91-93 D-Series truck?
I think someone posted about one being used that a universal type. All I have one my truck is RWAL but, I'd be curios to see if I could use one from an 87 Dodge Dakota because IIRC, that one is the same part number as the on from an A-Body Mopar (ex. Dart, Duster, Demon) since those did have a 8.25 from the factory as well. Thoughts and opinions for worse case scenario?
I think someone posted about one being used that a universal type. All I have one my truck is RWAL but, I'd be curios to see if I could use one from an 87 Dodge Dakota because IIRC, that one is the same part number as the on from an A-Body Mopar (ex. Dart, Duster, Demon) since those did have a 8.25 from the factory as well. Thoughts and opinions for worse case scenario?
To all, does anyone else have an idea on what might work with my truck having a rear anti-lock setup? I know my last choice would be a gamble going to the junkyard but, anyone else have any inputs or thoughts. Thank you again.
I noticed the prop valve on my 91 looks like the one on my friends 96 ram...not sire if that helps
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For the cost, I'd simply make up new lines myself.
The materials are cheap. It's the labour that's ugly if you pay someone.
The only problem is if you drive the truck daily and can't afford to have it off the road for a bit.
Might be a good job to do when you do the cab bushings you mentioned, and the cab is lifted up a bit.
The proportioning valves on both daks I had were ok on a bench test.
Just surface rust and rusty switch connector.
shadow is right... they were used on other trucks so should be easy to find.
If you replace the lines. beware the ABS modulator unit.
Since I was replacing the lines, I needed to be able to bleed the ABS unit. The bleeder nipple broke and I had a friend with a machine shop drill out the nipple.
It was rusted in so bad that he had to cut 1 thou into the original seat.
He made a brass insert, and a new custom made bleeder nipple.
Not a cheap deal if I had to pay for the work.
Rockauto did have some ABS units for a decent price on "wholesaler closeout" recently, but if it fails when I finally get the truck on the road... I may rip out the abs completely.
The materials are cheap. It's the labour that's ugly if you pay someone.
The only problem is if you drive the truck daily and can't afford to have it off the road for a bit.
Might be a good job to do when you do the cab bushings you mentioned, and the cab is lifted up a bit.
The proportioning valves on both daks I had were ok on a bench test.
Just surface rust and rusty switch connector.
shadow is right... they were used on other trucks so should be easy to find.
If you replace the lines. beware the ABS modulator unit.
Since I was replacing the lines, I needed to be able to bleed the ABS unit. The bleeder nipple broke and I had a friend with a machine shop drill out the nipple.
It was rusted in so bad that he had to cut 1 thou into the original seat.
He made a brass insert, and a new custom made bleeder nipple.
Not a cheap deal if I had to pay for the work.
Rockauto did have some ABS units for a decent price on "wholesaler closeout" recently, but if it fails when I finally get the truck on the road... I may rip out the abs completely.
I just had the same issue with my 90 - I figured I didn't have anything to lose and so tore the prop valve completely apart, cleaned everything (front accumulator was seized) and now it's back to working great. Hardest part was getting the end plug out, the hex had rotted enough that a socket wouldn't grab it - a file and some patience got it so a 6 point 18mm worked great. About an hour's labor beats $277 from the dealer any day!


