After three years of operating without a fuel gauge, I've made room in the monthly budget to purchase a fuel module. RockAuto gives me more choices than I expected for my '95. I've heard some aftermarket modules give less than perfect fuel readings (like reading "full" for over a hundred miles), and I don't want to deal with that nonsense. So...does anyone have any first-hand (or reliable second-hand) information about which one to purchase? Denso and Bosch are the most expensive, and I'm willing to pay for them if they're any good.

Any input you have is appreciated.

~ Jim

 

I've used airtex brand 2 times now on different trucks. No complaints and they're fairly cheap. Check out partsgeek.com, I got my last one there and it was considerably cheaper than anywhere else.

 

I got mine off ebay for 140.00. It was a Carter, just like the original. Better than original because it had the improved metal filter basket on the bottom of the assembly. The pump came ready to drop in. All I had to do was carefully remove the roll over valve assembly and transplant it to the new pump.
That's where you need to be extra careful, when dropping the tank, take care you don't yank on the line going to the delicate plastic barb on the roll over valve body. If you break it off and can't find a replacement roll over valve at a JY (hard to do) then you get to pay around 108.00 for a new one at the stealership. That's the only place you will find a new roll over valve sub-assembly, so be CAREFUL.
Once you get the tank down or lift the bed, you may not much care how much you saved on an off brand. I think its like tires, it generally pays to get the best and do it once rather than economize and end up doing it twice. Some of the cheaper Chinese knock-offs look cheaper and may require you to strip additional parts of your old pump and reuse them. Tacky.

 

I appreciate the feedback, especially regarding the care I need to take with the rollover valve. If all goes according to plan, then next weekend I should have a fully operational fuel gauge.

~ Jim

 

Don't drop the tank to replace the FP. It is substantially easier to unbolt the box (8 bolts, all easy to get at) and lift it up. I did my FP 2 weeks ago and used a Bosch pump. Another pointer is to make sure the pump is in the exact same position as the factory one used to be, or it will not read a fuel level as the level arm will contact the tank and not float. The FP will operate fine, you will just be stuck in the same issue. Cheers and best of luck, Spinner

 

Although raising the bed is certainly an option, its not always the best, especially here in the rust belt. I mention both options in my post, but each individual needs to evaluate the condition of the bed fasteners and any accessories (topper, bed box, liner, amps, antennas, electrical connections) and decide for themselves what's easiest.

 

either way you'd still have to crawl under the truck.

on my trucks i found it easier to remove the bed(2 people recommended) on my friends ram we drop the tank.

i've seen people cut out a square plate and bolt it back in place also.

just my

 

I plan to remove the bed. I have the benefit of living in a nearly rust-free world here in southern California; so rust is not a problem. I've had the bed off once before, and with the help of my two teen-aged sons the whole operation goes quickly and painlessly. The most difficult part is prying the two of them away from their video games.

~ Jim

 

The fuel gauge is now operational, and removing the bed wasn't necessary. I came up with something similar but simpler. I only removed the bolts for the bed on the driver's side. On the passenger side I merely loosened the bolts, but didn't remove them. This allowed me to lift up the driver's side of the bed and access the fuel pump module. I slid an old chest of drawers under the bed to prop it up while I removed the old module and put in the new one. Links to pics are below.

Who knew I'd find a use for that piece of furniture that's been sitting in my garage for all these months?

By the way, in addition to removing/loosening the bolts, I had to disconnect the driver's side tail light and remove the extension tube that connects to the spare tire. All in all, everything went smoothly.

~ Jim

Pic 1
Pic 2