I tried putting an electric fan in when I put my new rad in and it didn't work out to well.. I bought a wiring kit and have a fan out of a wrecker. Any ways the fan kicked up twice right after I installed it then it quick coming on but I could hear the solenoid kick and had power to the fan but I had to give it a little thump and it would start right up. (Did it like 5-6 times) it did start on its own once. Things started getting hot cause I couldn't get my fan to stay on. I killed the engine and looked to find my (blower motor?) plug (the one on the fire wall looks kind of behind the glove compartment. 6-7 pronged I think) had begun I melt and started on fire. I disconnected it. Got any ideas why?

 

okay well sounds like you drew power from the blower?

I installed one as directed form a 91 tarus .. works nice its got the power was hard to find dual stage (2 speed)

I bought a controller to auto kick on from Jegs .. and works real well but its wired to a dual 40 amp(2 physical) relays for 80 amps .... with a single trigger form controller and is wired directly to battery just like my offroad relays and switch are ..

 

Correction blower motor control module. Only thing I tapped into was ignition fuse gotta change that to a real ignition power source

 

okay but are you using a solenoid or a relay? eitherway is it wired for power direct form battery and ignition as trigger or using ignition as power? if so not good . way to much power draw :O .. it is possible its drawing power from were it needs if its wired this way and burning out wiring .. or you tapped into same ignition wire as that heater....

if I remember correctly there is 2 ignition switched wires on the colum... the heater(blower works on one) and is typically the one connected when car starter is installed.. other one runs stereo and other accessories.... been like 8 years since ive been under the steering on these old dodges I cant remember for sure but I know there is 2 and oneruns blower but don't remember if anything else... LOL

but don't remember if there was more then one fuse .... anyway stock fuse prolly be to low of amps considering everything else it has to run...

 

Well turns out the short was unrelated I call that dumb luck. Any ways is 2540cfm goo enough for a 318? ( no ac is a dd and occasional mudding) I think I'm going to tap the wiper ignition wire. My fan motor is pooched.. Only one I can find is with 2540 cfm

 

well depends how temp gets in summer and how much city/idle time you get in that higher weather.. 3500 or so is what is recommended for the 5.2

ive been driving since oct. with no fan with my truck without issues pushing those 33's even in rush hour traffic... but now temp went up and its warming up a bit more then usual(getting to operating temp LOL) so i installed a fan from the taurus 2 weeks ago , so far it's great and truck still get to proper operating temp.. and i got HEAT! LOL

anyway if you wanna try finding a early 90's taurus 3.8 fan its 2 speed roughly 4400 CFM and 2 speed... if that one you got dosent work, it draws around 30 amps , but i overkilled mine with electrical ..

 

Ahahah that's impressive! My fan motor was pooched. So I'm off looking for one again I have my stock fan in. I'm assuming the Taurus is a 2 stage fan how do you wire it for the two sages

 

http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generatio...ed-fan-839089/

this is the write up i followed i just used a kit i dug up from jegs.. wasnt cheap but most parts can be found at wreckers for cheap...

also if you dont want to use the 2 speed option you can just wire a relay setup to the highspeed side and a thermo sensor to trigger the relay

the way mine is setup was with 2 seperate controllers set to temps i wanted first is 190 second is 210. so at 190 low side kicks in and at high the low shuts down froma signal from high side and turns on high speed, its more complicated then it sounds but is very similar to how the thread i posted is, just using different controllers..

 

You need to be careful hooking up a cooling fan. I would not recommend tapping into ANY circuit with a cooling fan connection. In my opinion, the safest way to install a fan is to use relays or a solid state fan controller that's able to handle the amperage needed for the start up of the cooling fan motor (in the case of the taurus fan, the startup amperage is about 60 - 70 amps, and the running amperage is about 25 - 30). If you use relays, your installation is divided into 2 parts, the low amperage side and the high amperage side. The high amp side connects the battery to the blower motor, and the low amp side connects something like a switch to the relay - the low amp side of the relay is used to turn on the high amp side. I usually use an "add a circuit" pigtail connected to a place on the fuse panel that isn't "always hot" (with a small fuse) for the low amp connection (you don't really need a switch, but I always like to have a method of turning things off - you can loose fingers when the circuit is always live).

The 2 speed taurus fan needs 2 relays & depending on how you want it to work, there are quite a few schematics that you can get on-line that will do the trick, you just need relays that'll handle that amperage AND you need wiring for the high amp side, that will handle the running amperage. There are other things that you should do to get longevity out of the relays and avoid having the back EMF from frying any upstream components when the motor is turned off. These last few things can normally be solved with a few diodes & caps.

If you have the cash, Painless has a solid state controller specifically made for high amp fans such as the Taurus - have a look on their site, they're about $250 the last time I looked.