1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

95 Dakota 3.9L running poorly

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-07-2014 | 09:52 PM
akareddog's Avatar
akareddog
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default 95 Dakota 3.9L running poorly

I have a 1995 Dakota 3.9L with a 5 speed 2 wheel drive with 247,000 miles on it. About three months ago, I noticed it getting sluggish when starting at a stop and going up a hill. No issues if you eased into it, but only when you floored it. This my son's school truck and I don't drive it anymore. My Son told me it wasn't running correctly this weekend.

The truck idols ok and it doesn't seem to have any issues in 1st or 2nd gear. The truck really starts jerking and acts like its 1/2 way missing and wanting to backfire. Once you get to speed it seems to be ok, when you back off the gas. If you down shift it runs smoother....3.21 rear end. It runs better at RPM's over 3000.

At first I thought it was a fuel injector, so I poured 3 ozs on seaform in the vacaum line coming off the master brake housing. That didn't seem to help cleaning the fuel injectors. It really seems like its a lack of gas issue. I talked to local mechanic and he said it sound more like an electric issue. So I just replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotator cap. I didn't see any change in the way it runs. I'm back to square one, maybe a bad fuel injector?

My check engine light isn't on. I did a manual check for an error codes it is reading 55...no codes found.

I had replaced the fuel pump about 10 years ago. I can't seem to find and fuel line filter on the frame. I'm confused about that , does it really have a fuel filter? Some threads say yes on the drivers side of the frame and some say in the fuel tank.

Anyone want to take a stab on what is wrong with it and what to try next?

I really appreciate it,

Shane Roberts
 

Last edited by akareddog; 04-07-2014 at 11:11 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-08-2014 | 01:35 AM
RobertMc's Avatar
RobertMc
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Default

Docs show that 1995 Dak 3.9 has a inlet fuel filter in the tank itself (it looks like a teabag on the bottom of the fuel pump module), and a combo pressure regulator/fuel filter externally on top of the pump.
(The factory parts list shows a frame mounted inline fuel filter ONLY for the 2.5 litre engine)

Earlier models, like my 1990, have a filter in the tank and and inline one on the driver side frame rail fuel line in front of the fuel tank.

The truck idles fine and is ok at a stable speed, but has problems on acceleration ?
Does it accelerate ok in neutral ?
 
  #3  
Old 04-08-2014 | 02:07 AM
DukeDomB's Avatar
DukeDomB
Rookie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Default

At 247,000 miles, you might have worn cylinders/rings and might be losing compression.

What you describe sounds similar to when my Dak failed smog shortly before I pulled the v6 engine and put in the eight. I had uneven compression and very low compression on the #1 cinder.

You're going to want to check
1) timing (is the dizzy indexed properly?)
2) spark plugs gapped properly?
3) fuel system is not clogged, injectors work good, fuel system, pressure is good?
4) egr system works properly?
5) no vacuum leaks?
 

Last edited by DukeDomB; 04-08-2014 at 02:09 AM.
  #4  
Old 04-09-2014 | 10:05 AM
RamblerReb's Avatar
RamblerReb
Professional
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Default

I'd be looking for an intake manifold leak, myself. Idles ok, sluggish under load, eases up when you back off? Sounds like it's pulling in air at certain engine speeds. Without seeing your truck, that's just a guess, of course.
 
  #5  
Old 04-09-2014 | 09:13 PM
akareddog's Avatar
akareddog
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks for the input and here is the latest. I still have no improve. My spark plugs are gapped at .35 I just installed Autolites 3924. I checked all the cylinders today and compression is running 120(+5/-5). I installed a new gasket between the carburetor and the air filter.

The engine seems to run perfect in neutral. It only acts up under a load and at low RPMs. The vacuum lines appear to look good. If the timming is off would it run ruff while in neutral racing the engine....seems ok to 3500 RPMs? The truck never smokes or burns oil.

The truck isn't driverable at this point, and acceleration up a hill is the major problem. Once you get up to speed it seems to be better, but still has issues. The truck drivers really jerky....has power no moment and then acts like its missing.

Rambler not sure what to look for on the intake manifold and don't what the EGR system is.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me out.

Shane
 
  #6  
Old 04-09-2014 | 10:56 PM
RamblerReb's Avatar
RamblerReb
Professional
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by akareddog
Thanks for the input and here is the latest. I still have no improve. My spark plugs are gapped at .35 I just installed Autolites 3924. I checked all the cylinders today and compression is running 120(+5/-5). I installed a new gasket between the carburetor and the air filter.

The engine seems to run perfect in neutral. It only acts up under a load and at low RPMs. The vacuum lines appear to look good. If the timming is off would it run ruff while in neutral racing the engine....seems ok to 3500 RPMs? The truck never smokes or burns oil.

The truck isn't driverable at this point, and acceleration up a hill is the major problem. Once you get up to speed it seems to be better, but still has issues. The truck drivers really jerky....has power no moment and then acts like its missing.

Rambler not sure what to look for on the intake manifold and don't what the EGR system is.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me out.

Shane
I should have said intake manifold GASKET leak, sorry.

Here's the EGR valve.
 
  #7  
Old 04-10-2014 | 06:23 PM
vhinze's Avatar
vhinze
Rookie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Near La Crosse, WI
Default

Timing chain is stretched. Chains are rated for 60-80k miles and often last much longer. But 240k? No way. A new chain will work wonders. Until then you're smearing lipstick on a pig.
While doing the timing chain, its an opportunity to replace the water pump and radiator. They would be due at this point if not recently replaced. Its more likely you have a throttle body, not a carburetor.
Let us be real, at 240k, some serious maintenance is due.
 

Last edited by vhinze; 04-11-2014 at 09:33 AM.
  #8  
Old 04-11-2014 | 10:29 AM
akareddog's Avatar
akareddog
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default

Yesterday I bought a fuel pump tester from Harbor Fright. I had a small gas leak at the gauge so I only ran it about 10 seconds a couple of times. With the key on it reads 39 lbs and the motor is off. It was still at 39 lbs 15 mins after I turned the key off. Once you started the motor the needle went crazy between 20 to 40 lbs while idoling. When you increased the RPM's the needle leveled out around 38 lbs. So i assume I've final found the problem, and the fuel pump is bad? It makes sense why my engine spudders at lower RPM's and runs smoother at higher RPMs.

The last time my fuel pump with out it was running perfectly and pulled up to a gas station running on flumes and filled it up. I went to start it and the fuel pump was dead.

It sounds like removing the bed is going to be the easiest way to do it myself? I have no lift and I have a full tank of gas.

I agree I'm runing on borrowed time with the timing belt. I wish I had the extra money to have it changed, but I don't think I can do that one myself. The truck is on it's second water pump, third radiator, but original timing belt.

Thanks Everyone,

Shane
 

Last edited by akareddog; 04-11-2014 at 05:48 PM.
  #9  
Old 04-11-2014 | 03:44 PM
akareddog's Avatar
akareddog
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Default

Removed
 

Last edited by akareddog; 04-28-2014 at 08:17 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-11-2014 | 05:26 PM
RamblerReb's Avatar
RamblerReb
Professional
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Default

The video description lists the problem: the fuel pressure regulator.

If you have the returnless system, and by '95 you do, the regulator is in the tank, so it's as much fun as a pump replacement!
 


Quick Reply: 95 Dakota 3.9L running poorly



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:26 PM.