I need to do one on my '93 and wonder if anyone has done one or knows of a thread on it. I looked through the FAQs and couldn't find one.

Any help appreciated!

 

Specifically, which are the high and low side ports? I believe I have located the high side on the hose going to the condensor near the right fenderwell and the low on the compressor itself. Is this accurate?

 

On R134, the smaller port is the low side. Not sure about R12.

 

R12 ports are identical, hence my question. I am pretty sure the line port is the high side and the compressor port is the low, but informed confirmation never hurts.

 

low side is compressor... this is one i used to charge mine,... my 92 was r12 i just used the kits from walmart it comes with quick fittings for changing the R12 to a quick connect fitting and all... worked fine and nothing else was changed cept the bad condenser (reason it failed in the first place)

now dont know howmany people recommend that aftermarket hydrocarbon stuff for AC's but i use it for fridges/freezers/house and car ac's, Ptac units, ect (different type blends of course pending on application ) for past 12 years and not one i have had issues with its cheap and works..

 

So no issues with the dessicant in the drier melting and clogging the system? I had heard of this being an issue.

 

Well, it depends on the age of the drier. If you're worried then change it.

 

my 95 neon I charged with this aftermarket stuff again after replacing condenser... seems to be a big dodge thing and condensers ..LOL but anyway system was disabled for 8 years according to the tag when condenser was found damaged, changed it, added the ac tune up kit basically oil for compressor/ a sealer and a drying agent to dry out moisture .. then topped it up brought low side to 42psi 2 years later sold the car with 54000 km's a complete makeover and working AC LOL, even looking at doing my Jeep TJ which OH yea needs a Condensor! LOL after putting dye trace in it ..

but yea if your worried about it, replace it..

the aftermarket stuff runs at a far lower pressure then normal R12. or R134 which is much higher I believe low on my Dakota was again 40~ never exceed 50 psi with this stuff, and highside was around 140-160psi

I could have just converted since I have access to R134 but meh, what fun is that!

 

Low pressure is on the compressor, high pressure is the other one, yes.

What I did converting my 1988 to R134a was:

1) Remove compressor, turned it upside down, and hand ran it until I felt comfortable that ALL the lube was pumped out.

2) Removed the receiver-dryer (about $15 from RockAuto to replace).

3) Removed the thermonic expansion valve (again about $14 from RockAuto).

4) Used my flush kit and about 1/2 gallon of flush, flushed all the lines and both cores.

5) Using a new O-ring set (once again, about $6 at RockAuto - do you notice a theme here? *grins*) I replaced all seals and O-rings with new ones, along with the new receiver drier and the expansion valve. I used Nylog(tm) (bought a while back for $20, now as low as $9 at ) to help all the seals seal.

6) I then pulled a vacuum, letting the pump run about 6 hours (!!) since I'm paranoid about the flush remaining (I had the system open about a day, so I didn't perceive it being a problem, but hey, I had the time ... )

I should note I have a manifold gauge set AND a 2.5cfm vacuum pump. These I own due to the immediate family owning about 10 vehicles total (!!!)

7) I then sucked about 6 oz of Ester oil back into the system to make sure there was oil in it (using both the low and the high pressure sides, just like I did sucking the vacuum.)

8) I then put in about 60% of the weight of R134a as the tag called for R12. Yes, I know it's supposed to be 70% to 80% - it was only about 60F ambient, and I hit equalization about then. I was pulling 40psi on the low side and about 160psi on the high side.

Sucker blows ice cold air - except now my alternator wants to bend slightly, and it tosses the front belt. The one back belt isn't enough ... I've got to fix the ALTERNATOR to run the A/C again, dag nab it!

I haven't yet, but you can also pick up a R134a cycle switch (set for the different pressures of R134a over R12). It'll work better, but it works with the old switch ALSO, so I'm saving my shekels right now (RockAuto only wants about $67 for that one switch, as opposed to $13 for the R12 calibrated one ... it doesn't get THAT hot here!)

RwP

 

Hey Rambler why are you making the switch? did you have a leak? If you are changing it to change it don't r-12 works better at cooling the r-134.