Nice guy and all, but he kinda seemed to think he was giving away gold for the price of tin, when in reality it was tin for the price of silver. (nicest way to put it).
There isn't a straight panel on it that isn't rusty, what isn't rusty is damaged... The interior is DISGUSTING, and I'll leave it at that. But, if I can get it running it might be worth it as a tower/hauler/beater!
Now by that strap, do you mean the reinforcement looking bar on the top of the alternator? Your truck wouldn't even run without it? My 93 doesn't have one and its been fine for months!

 

I got it to sorta run today. I got a battery for it today, and checked out some stuff, found a few crossed plug wires, shot some ether and it was trying to fire sorta. It kinda fired a few times here and there, but wouldn't really run even on the ether.
Also, I have fuel in the rail but can I use any schroeder psi gauge to check fuel pressure? I don't think I hear the pump coming on for the 2 second prime, but I hear the click from the fuel rail like its priming.

 

needs to be a fuel pressure gauge or at least big enough to seal off

 

You can sort of cheap and dirty check for the presence of fuel pressure by just poking a small screwdriver or nail into the schrader valve and see if gas squirts out.

You may still have a bad PCM, it'll try to run but if the PCM is screwing up the ignition timing, it will only pop. If you were local, you could test your PCM on my truck--if you can find someone with a 96, 97, 98, or maybe a 99 Dakota or Durango, you might try this. I don't know if you've checked, but make sure the spark plug wires are plugged into the distributor in the correct firing order. It kinda sounds like the previous owner couldn't find his **** with both hands and very bright light.
Check the coil wire? Cap & rotor?

I would check the fuses and relays in the power dist. center behind the battery. Look for a bad relay--you can swap them around. And check the fuses with a multimeter to make sure they are not internally compromised.

If you keep at it, you'll figure it out. (I think I'd do a compression check, tho.)

 

My first thought was "did they give him the right coil?" then I agreed on the PCM when you mentioned it. BCTom says in one of his posts that inside the PCM the solder cracks and he has had success repairing them by using a stainless steel pin as a soldering iron to remelt the solder so it is no longer cracked. I assume he also used electrical soldering flux availablke at radio shack (avoid their soldering iron it won't work on circuit boards or mother boards even though they will tell you it does.
http://www.solopcms.com/products/dodge-pcm/dakota You will probably have to do a truck specific search this link is on my wish list as is Jet Performance http://www.supertruckusa.com/products/77611_617.htm

 

I did press the pin in and fuel did come out, maybe not at 55 psi though, that was my main concern, but it does have SOME fuel pressure. Wires were out of order and I already handled that. Cap and rotor do look new as he said. All fuses and relays check out.
A compression check is a good idea though!
I tried to open the pcm, but it is 100% sealed. Remove all the screws and the cover is glued to the case. This is much different than my 93 or 95 with the plastic case, this is an aluminum case with a "taco" shaped cover. I fear that if I pry it open, it'll never go back together.

 

"I assume he also used electrical soldering flux "

Yes, rosin core, not acid core (acid core is for plumbing). If you're lucky you won't need any additional solder. Just heat up the existing solder a bit so it flows together again. Only add additional solder if you have to.