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fuel pump change

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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Default fuel pump change

First lets start buy explaining problem from beginning. Truck gas gauge doesn't work so I have ran out of gas and had to walk a few times. Anyway on way to work last Friday and truck dies. Was pretty sure I still had gas but proceeded to walk to the station and fill gas can . got back put gas in. Cranked truck it started but ran really bogged out . Didn't know what the problem was but tried again started again but got even worse. Waited about half an hour tried again nothing but the starter. Thought it was fuel pump. As it doesn't kick on when key is turned on. Well I changed the fuel pump without problems other then the 165$ price tag lol. Got it changed Truck still only cranks does not start. What a disappointment.Tested the power cable the plugs into the pump no power. But I get power everywhere else. Relay's all test good. Thinking it could be the crank shaft sensor. All wire harnesses look to be good for its age. Anyone know if this could be it. And where that is. By the way I have a 95 Dakota v8 4x4
 

Last edited by Marty_g; Nov 1, 2014 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 02:35 AM
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Default Fuel filter

Change the fuel filter under the drivers door on the frame. Most likely it is clogged.

Dudester
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 03:24 AM
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The fuel pump should only see 12V briefly when you first turn the key to the "run" position; this would be the "kick on" you mentioned. After that, the pump will not see power until the ECM is happy, and as you mentioned, the Crank Position Sensor signal is part of that happiness.

Do you have spark? It's possible you have a bad crank sensor, given the info you've provided, but it could also be the coil, coil wire, no 12V to the coil, ground issue, etc. Here's a website that can help you track the problem down without having to spend too much $ on parts swapping. It'll take you thru the steps for troubleshooting a "crank, no start" problem on a Dakota:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...gnition-coil-1

Oh, and when/if you do test 3 for 12V to the ignition coil, note that the ignition coil will only get power when the engine is either cranking or running, so you may need a helper to crank the engine while you're checking for 12V. The info on the site says you'll either see 12V or you'll see 0V, but I've seen a bad CPS show 12V briefly, then go away.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:27 AM
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Ya I've discovered that site last night. Thanks for the replies. Going to do the tests to see if it's a power thing ground thing or the sensor. As I don't believe I have a separate fuel filter cuz it's built into my pump. At least that's what AutoZone said. Hopefully it's nothing to major I'm pretty good a figuring things out but I'm no mechanic. So ya.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 11:18 AM
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Check the 3 wire splice under the power distribution center on left fender well.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 01:14 PM
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Well I checked to see if I was getting spark. I am found out in a shocking way. Woke me up quick. Plug was dry when I took it out. Thinking it's something to do with electronic cables going to the pump itself. Because pumps still not turning on or lighting up the multimeter.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Tested power going to fuel pump and found that I'm getting power there. Must not have been checking it right before still can't hear the pump kick on ever though even being right next to it. I sprayed starting fluid in throttle body and truck starts and runs. I did find out the the guy above was right about the truck having a fuel filter (guys at AutoZone don't know what their talking about I guess) took that off and I can blow through it easily. And there was fuel in both lines in and out of filter. All the wires look good no broken wires no signs of arcing or anything. So I think I'm going to do the testing of the crank shaft sensor I guess is there anything that I have to recalibrate or anything like that if I have to replace the sensor or do I just take old one out and replace it with new one. It's either that or the pump I got from AutoZone was a 160$ POS that someone else already took bad and they just didn't want to take a loss on it. Glad it's got a lifetime warranty on it either way it's been pretty disheartening that's for sure.
 

Last edited by Marty_g; Nov 2, 2014 at 10:05 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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If starting fluid fired the engine, you've definitely narrowed the problem way down. You're not getting fuel, so you can forget about the crank sensor for now. You could have a bad pump, a bad regulator, plugged in-tank filter, or the tank may not be venting properly. Try starting it with the fuel tank cap off. Double check your fuel line connections and electrical connection at the tank. Like you, I'm suspicious that there's no sound coming from the pump.

Because the engine fires with starting fluid, we know the computer is happy and the ASD relay is energized, therefore the pump should push fuel when cranking. You could disconnect your fuel line at the fuel rail and see if any fuel comes out when the engine is cranked. If you try this, of course be careful, run the line into a bottle or extend the hose away from the engine. A healthy pump will push fuel out real fast.

For your sake I hope you don't have to pull the pump again. Let us know what you end up doing to fix it.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Marty_g
Tested power going to fuel pump and found that I'm getting power there. Must not have been checking it right before still can't hear the pump kick on ever though even being right next to it. I sprayed starting fluid in throttle body and truck starts and runs. I did find out the the guy above was right about the truck having a fuel filter (guys at AutoZone don't know what their talking about I guess) took that off and I can blow through it easily. And there was fuel in both lines in and out of filter. All the wires look good no broken wires no signs of arcing or anything. So I think I'm going to do the testing of the crank shaft sensor I guess is there anything that I have to recalibrate or anything like that if I have to replace the sensor or do I just take old one out and replace it with new one. It's either that or the pump I got from AutoZone was a 160$ POS that someone else already took bad and they just didn't want to take a loss on it. Glad it's got a lifetime warranty on it either way it's been pretty disheartening that's for sure.
My 96 4 cyl. fuel filter is part of the fuel regulator. I don't have a canister filter.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 08:59 PM
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Default Fuel filter

There is a canister fuel filter on the frame under the drivers side door. Dollars to donuts its clogged shut. I went through all the hassle of changing the just to find out it was the filter.


Dudester
 
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