I started trying to read up on the 241, and for that matter the difference in the transfer case models. It appears the 241 is 3in. longer but the front driveshaft comes out in the same place.
If you don't mind, could you answer a few questions for me.
1. Is the spline count and dia. the same on the 231-241?
2. Is the shift linkage the same?
3. Speedometer cable hook up the same?


As far as my useage goes, mostly for cruising etc. I live 30 miles west of DC so there is no off roading in this area. I pretty much plan to keep the 360 magnum stock except for exhaust, mopar performance distributor, alum. dual plane carb manifold, and a holley 670 avenger carb.
I may use a set of the EQ heads if the motor I buy has cracked heads, "from what I understand, a common problem with the 5.9" and in that case, maybe a little more cam, something with more lift.
But it wont be off roading, racing etc. Just street use.

 

The 241D is the same input gear 23 spline. The shifter you may have to extend no big deal. The speedo I honestly have to idear.. I wasn't sure what your plans are with truck reason I suggested the 241d. I had a 241dhd from a cummins diesel in my 93 Dakota lol

 

cummins case may be just a little overkill for me!! I plan to use a ford 8.8 rear. In all honesty, from what I read, the nv3500 will probably be the weak link in the drivetrain.
Next week, I am going to try to visit a pick a part junkyard. Hopefully find some 241d to look at and check the speedo. hook up.
Do you know if the rear driveshaft yoke is the same as the 231 transfer case. If not, I would want to grab those too. We have a driveshaft co. local that could cut and make a driveshaft for me. Just need to make sure to get the correct yokes.

 

Sorry I'm a little slow getting back. I did pick up a front seal for my NV3500 but never put it in. Like you I thought it might be a headache to pull the trans if I had to replace the seal later, but after some searching and asking around, front seal failures on these trannys don't seem to be very common. I decided it might be better to leave that alone. Besides, raising the cab a few inches to clear the bell housing should make the job much easier if it becomes necessary.

Regarding the 241 transfer case, I believe it's too new to have the speedo drive. I'd stick with the 231, they've been used in full-size trucks and hold up well as long as you don't run them dry, or run in 4wd on dry roads. If you're still concerned, you could upgrade to the Dodge 231HD which has wider chain and larger output shaft, but again, you may not find one with a speedo drive. I have a 231HD sitting in my garage and it's identical to the 231in my Dakota except for the chain, output size (input is the same), and it has no speedo/speed sensor plug in.

I'm full of opinions, but let me just throw a couple thoughts out there about the rear end too. If your current rear is the 8.25, it's a pretty strong rear, also used in full size trucks for many years. I could steer you to some links attesting to their strength, but I can also tell you from personal experience as I've had a few, including one in a Duster I drag raced and then drove for many miles, with no diff problems. If you do swap it out though, keep in mind that the Dakota 8.25 diff has a significant offset to the right, and those "unique" wheel lug patterns which might cause you to have to use different wheels in the rear. As you noted, the weakest link is the NV, but even there I wouldn't worry too much unless you intend to be very hard on it.

 

Ragged, thank you for your input. I use your build thread as the basic model I am following with my truck. So I value your opinion as well as your experience with these Dakota's.
The reason I was planning to use the 8.8 rear is for the following reasons.
1. My 8.25 posi is shot. According to the FSM I don't believe it is rebuildable. It is replaced as a unit.
2. The rear makes a howling noise especially in a left hand turn. Now this noise could be the left wheel bearing as its leaking oil onto the brakes.
3. The brake backing plates are shot.
4. The 8.8 I have came out of a explorer. It has the "offset" built into it.
5. I orig. purchased it for another project that fell through. So I have it already.
6. The rear has disc brakes and the bolt pattern is the same as my Dakota.
7. There is a hybrid u-joint that I believe will allow my driveshaft to work with the explorer rear.
8. The 8.8 swap is pretty common in the "jeep forums" This is where I have gathered most of my information.
9.I have a set of spring and shock mounts to weld on and I think that will be pretty straight forward.
10. The brake hoses are pretty straight forward as well.


My main concerns are
1. The rear is 2.5 in. narrow compared to the Dakota rear. So I will have to run wheel spacers or different wheels. I really don't like that but will probably run the spacers.
2. I am concerned about the brake balance with the disc on the rear. Now several Jeep owners claim it is not a problem on a jeep, so how knows?


I do plan to not cut or destroy anything from the 8.25 rear. If it don't work out, I want to be able to rebuild my existing 8.25 and put it back in the truck.


As far as the 241d case goes, It has to have a speedometer drive that I can use as well as basically bolting in. My initial thoughts was it would widen the assortment of trucks that could supply a transfer case for this swap.
So far, my experience has been that I find a lot more 2nd gen Dakota stuff, and it seems that a lot of the early 1st gen. stuff is gone. I assume crushed.
With summer coming to a end, my work will slow down some and I will have more time to search the junk yards.
I hope to find the correct parts and keep the surprises to a minimum. I don't want this truck to turn into a project I never complete.
Again, thanks for all of your suggestions.

 

Lol the cummins tcase will be over kill for you but I have a one ton 14 bolt welded rear with 42" tractor digs..

Anyways from my experience with my stock Dakota that I used to have I had bad luck with twisting off output shafts on tcase and sheering spider gears in two rear ends with locking diffs and I couldn't find replacement gears anywhere.

The 231/241 don't have the same slips. Just a thought but what about swapping your cluster to electronic? I may have all the wiring you may need and cluster from a 92.. Due to i pulled the 5.2 and swapped a ls1 and running all Auto Meter gauges. Just a thought

 

Are you sure your 92 has the electronic speedometer? When I look on rockauto, they show cables through 93 with 94 being the start of electronic. Could be a misprint.................

 

Sounds like you've really done some homework on the 8.8 rear end swap; with disc brakes and the same bolt pattern that might be the right choice. I would have the same question about the brake pressure distribution with the rear discs. It might be worthwhile to see if you can compare numbers on the brake proportioning/limiting modules for a 2nd gen Dakota with drums vs. one with discs. I know its 2nd gen, but I don't think there were any 1st gen Daks with rear discs. It might be useful info anyway, to see if the discs require different front/rear bias than the drums.

If you keep a look out, I think you'll find a np231 with speedo take-off in the junk yard, or maybe through an online source. Even if it needs a rebuild, that's not too difficult of a job. I rebuilt mine a few months ago, I think the kit cost me about $150 with a new chain. Keep searchin'!

 

Yes, I'm sure my 92 and 93 are both electronic. The portion valve you can get a manual adjusting valve for the rear and you can adjust it were you feel is the best for you. You can find them from your local speed shop.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragged89

. I would have the same question about the brake pressure distribution with the rear discs. It might be worthwhile to see if you can compare numbers on the brake proportioning/limiting modules for a 2nd gen Dakota with drums vs. one with discs. I know its 2nd gen, but I don't think there were any 1st gen Daks with rear discs. It might be useful info anyway, to see if the discs require different front/rear bias than the drums.

Ragged, I already had removed the (height sesing proportioning valve) as it was froze up when I got the truck. At the time I could not find a replacement. So I bypassed it. It does have a tendency to slide the rear first, compared to before.
I have seen proportioning valves on ebay marked for disc-disc setups. Here is an example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Brand-New-Universal-GM-Brass-Finish-Disc-Disc-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-/161640470467?hash=item25a285d7c3&vxp=mtr

Or if I have too, there is the adjustable type like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Disc-Brake-Adjustable-****-Style-Proportioning-Prop-Valve-New-/331233678098?hash=item4d1f10d312&vxp=mtr

But at this point, I plan to start with my existing valve and see how it stops etc. Don't want to spend anymore then I have to trying to adapt the 8.8. at least until I get it mounted and make sure there are no other unforeseen problems. If it gets too involved, I will go back and have my 8.25 rebuilt, then reinstall it.


Oh, and I have tried to check on 2nd gen trucks. It seems the master cylinder is the same, (I think) and I cant find any info on the proportioning valve. I suspect, that they have antilock brakes and don't use one.