You don't NEED one, but I find it easier and faster when it's Just Me.

Also, you run the risk of overtravelling the master cylinder, blowing its seals, if you do it the old fashioned way ... not gonna happen if you use a vacuum or pressure bleeder.

Plus, the vacuum and pressure bleeders can bleed ABS systems a lot better. Not perfectly if you can't exercise the ABS pumps on some designs; but they give you a better shot.

Now, as to the brake lines; get some copper-nickel lines, such as this one from Amazon (note: I don't know those are the right size fittings for a Dakota; that's from my Cougar parts list) and a good bender - the cheap ones work OK on copper nickel lines.

RwP

 

RalphP, Thank you for replying. Could you define "loud enough"? And I downloaded the Service manual for the 2001 models, from here in the Forum,.....would the data there, "hopefully",be applicable to my 2000 Van regarding Brakes/ Booster/ MC & more?

 

Helps to quote - I had to hunt back to see what I had replied *grins*

Well, if it drowns out the exhaust and the radio, it's DEFINATELY too loud.

If, however, I could barely hear it over my tinnitus - that's about the "Time to replace" for me (hint: 60 years old, high school I used to build amps and help build speakers for garage bands, spent many a evening in front of a speaker stack seeing if we could get them to 12 ... ) If it's a pronounced WHOOSH then I'd seriously consider replacing both anyway; Brakes Are Not Something To Screw Around With.

RwP

 

RalphP I've heard this "Whoosh" infrequently, & in fact with all that has happened to my Van over the past couple of months, I reckon that one could say that "My Eyes & Ears have been Opened". :>) It's not loud enough to drown out the exhaust, nor the radio, but it is perceptible. Regarding the Amps & Speakers? I never built them, ..... But back in the 60s & 70s, I did get as close to them, while I listened to Black Sabbath, Th' Stones, 10CC, Hendrix, & more. Lol! So, ..... The Brake Booster, nor any equipment from that area in front of the Driver's seat, should not be making ANY noise, when the Brakes are applied then?

 

There may be some sound; but a pronounced "WHOOSH" is usually a bad booster.

Other hints: If you have a vacuum gauge, it drops as long as the brakes are applied; motor stumbles on brake application, or stumbles, revs, and then when they're released revs and drops back; matter of fact, almost any "big vacuum leak" symptom tied to brake activation.

To see how much is purely mechanical, listen carefully as you apply the brakes with the motor off.

Another test is to run the motor, then turn it off and apply the brakes multiple times, seeing how long it is before boost is gone.

RwP

 

If yours has ABS, it should have the proportioning (combination) valve. On the side of that is a tiny pin under a rubber cap. If you lost the rear brakes, when you bleed them, have someone pull the rubber cap off, and very gently push in that pin. I had the same issue on my 1994. It blew the rear line, and when we tried to bleed it, a total of three different times, it was still spongy, so, i took it to a shop, the guy put some odd tool on the valve that held the pin in, and they were done in 20 minutes, with no problems yet.