Hello Robert,

I can tell you the thickness of the timing cover is very close to 2.5 in. getting my tape in there was not easy with everything on the motor.

This picture shows the measurement from the timing cover forward.


here is a dist. picture



I found some shelby info. I believe you will find interesting. I will post it seperate from this entry

 

Right here in our own backyard: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...or-v8-dak.html

The shelby did use a different position...hell it used the front engine mounts to get there. There are pictures of the motor sitting in the frame. Also confirms that the Shelby used the same LA water pump and Rock Auto is full of sh$$. I can also tell the motor is sitting back as the valve covers are much closer to the firewall.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...-dak-2.jpg.jpg

 

Thanks 93....my measurements exactly, and at least confirms my motor is sitting in the right spot

 

I found this Shelby page and it shows unique part numbers to the Shelby Dakota vs standard Dakota

http://www.shelbyregistry.com/1989dakotaupl.html


About half way down they show the Engine front support bracket
Left 4112853
Right 3892272

Engine mount insulator
4088033

Now I started checking the left mount 4112853 and of course its discontinued. But I did find by searching the number it was used on 84 and 88 5.2L ramchargers.
Thats as far as I got, but hopefully this may help you.

Oh, I do have this picture of the engine mount on my truck. And FWIW I guess its possible, but I would not have thought that Shelby would have moved the frame perch. Its welded.

 

Thanks for the pic 93, but if my previous post is true, Shelby didn't use the mid mounts....They used the front mounts and a special cross member, hence the different mount part numbers.

 

From Bill55az build thread....He copied the shelby mounts "Mounts are done....and I ended up pushing the motor back a bit over an inch."

 

Robert, not sure if yours mounts like mine, but if so, would it be possible to take the upper portion of the mount, cut the part off that bolts to the block, Then take a 1/4 in. steel plate, drill the engine mounting holes, then weld it back together, but moving the motor back an inch or so?
It would be beyond my abilities, but I feel sure it could be fabricated.
One thing I have learned from this post. When I convert mine to V8 it will be with the serp. belt.

 

My mounts are different....they are the barrel type...I'd have to move the entire perch.

 

Is there a reason why you would not want to convert to a serp. belt system? Moving the motor back, at the least is going to make it harder to pull the transmission after everything is done.
And if you sink the radiator into the support, then you would have to put your fans where the condenser is now. That in turn is going to eliminate the possibility of AC.

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...d-v8-swap.html

I use the OEM radiator and have a 318 LA engine. Pulled the engine approx. 3/4" rearwards. The transmission crossmember bolt hole slots were enlarged.