96 Dakota no power under load
Champion
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On a good CAT the temp in front should be higher than the exit side. you can get a laser temp gauge for around $20. I think I paid $29 at Home Despot for mine. OOOPSS! I have that reversed. The temp in front should be cooler than in back when it is working right.
Last edited by onemore94dak; Aug 1, 2016 at 03:32 PM.
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Amateur
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I Pulled the cat this afternoon and its clean as a whistle....cranked up and ran it with the cat off and it acts the same. Cranks and idles great, but struggles to rev any at all with occasional slight backfire, but then on a rare occasion revs up great. Even though I just put new plugs in, took a chance at looking if maybe one had cracked during install. All looked great but quite sooty as though running rich....earlier tests of the 02 had it swinging nicely between 0-.9 vdc when up to temp. If I unplug it, naturally I get an 02 failure code. If I unplug the tps it only barely runs odd and kicks a TPs code. If I unplug the Crank sensor, it dies and I get a crank sensor code. If I unplug the MAP sensor it doesnt run/rev any better or any worse, also trips a MAP sensor high code.
Suzonda.....getting it to rev much more than idle is the problem. If I hold my hand or a rag over the throttle body with the best it will do it dies.
Suzonda.....getting it to rev much more than idle is the problem. If I hold my hand or a rag over the throttle body with the best it will do it dies.
Last edited by mkc1962; Aug 1, 2016 at 09:31 PM.
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I Pulled the cat this afternoon and its clean as a whistle....cranked up and ran it with the cat off and it acts the same. Cranks and idles great, but struggles to rev any at all with occasional slight backfire, but then on a rare occasion revs up great. Even though I just put new plugs in, took a chance at looking if maybe one had cracked during install. All looked great but quite sooty as though running rich....earlier tests of the 02 had it swinging nicely between 0-.9 vdc when up to temp. If I unplug it, naturally I get an 02 failure code. If I unplug the tps it only barely runs odd and kicks a TPs code. If I unplug the Crank sensor, it dies and I get a crank sensor code. If I unplug the MAP sensor it doesnt run/rev any better or any worse, also trips a MAP sensor high code.
Suzonda.....getting it to rev much more than idle is the problem. If I hold my hand or a rag over the throttle body with the best it will do it dies.
Suzonda.....getting it to rev much more than idle is the problem. If I hold my hand or a rag over the throttle body with the best it will do it dies.
Look there if you haven't already.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
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I am wondering if the cam fuel sync is set right. If you have a scanner like the MT 2500 you can use it to set fuel sync. Here is a manual way I found online the guy claims he was only ever 1 or 2 degrees off after he got a scanner and went back to check those he set manually.
Set Fuel Sync
motor at TDC rotor pointing at or near #1 wire
will be comp stroke will point towards pass side
of truck
damper at 0 always turn clockwise never turn back
or you will get any slop in the chain and dist
gear and be way off
looking from front of truck straight down over
rotor, pickup plat has 1 line marked cyl
with the rotor button centered over line 0
back edge of rotor lined with line towards the
clockwise position +3
most are set from factory at 0 to -6 not good
+3 to +6
1 degree on dist = 2 crank the intake opens 8
degrees before TDC and fireing the injector just
after this opens will catch it when both valves
are open and the scavaging effect will help draw
the fuel in faster while the exhaust and intake
are both open at the same time the exhaust pulse
actualy helps pull in the fuel (overlap) 32
degrees they are both open at the same time
Fireing the injector at 0 TDC you will miss this
and just be drawing with the piston down stroke
improved low end gas mileage and perf will be
noticeable from going to the plus side
From a guy called Larry at a place called J and J auto
Set Fuel Sync
motor at TDC rotor pointing at or near #1 wire
will be comp stroke will point towards pass side
of truck
damper at 0 always turn clockwise never turn back
or you will get any slop in the chain and dist
gear and be way off
looking from front of truck straight down over
rotor, pickup plat has 1 line marked cyl
with the rotor button centered over line 0
back edge of rotor lined with line towards the
clockwise position +3
most are set from factory at 0 to -6 not good
+3 to +6
1 degree on dist = 2 crank the intake opens 8
degrees before TDC and fireing the injector just
after this opens will catch it when both valves
are open and the scavaging effect will help draw
the fuel in faster while the exhaust and intake
are both open at the same time the exhaust pulse
actualy helps pull in the fuel (overlap) 32
degrees they are both open at the same time
Fireing the injector at 0 TDC you will miss this
and just be drawing with the piston down stroke
improved low end gas mileage and perf will be
noticeable from going to the plus side
From a guy called Larry at a place called J and J auto
Last edited by onemore94dak; Aug 1, 2016 at 10:56 PM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 704
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I am wondering if the cam fuel sync is set right. If you have a scanner like the MT 2500 you can use it to set fuel sync. Here is a manual way I found online the guy claims he was only ever 1 or 2 degrees off after he got a scanner and went back to check those he set manually.
Set Fuel Sync
motor at TDC rotor pointing at or near #1 wire
will be comp stroke will point towards pass side
of truck
damper at 0 always turn clockwise never turn back
or you will get any slop in the chain and dist
gear and be way off
looking from front of truck straight down over
rotor, pickup plat has 1 line marked cyl
with the rotor button centered over line 0
back edge of rotor lined with line towards the
clockwise position +3
most are set from factory at 0 to -6 not good
+3 to +6
1 degree on dist = 2 crank the intake opens 8
degrees before TDC and fireing the injector just
after this opens will catch it when both valves
are open and the scavaging effect will help draw
the fuel in faster while the exhaust and intake
are both open at the same time the exhaust pulse
actualy helps pull in the fuel (overlap) 32
degrees they are both open at the same time
Fireing the injector at 0 TDC you will miss this
and just be drawing with the piston down stroke
improved low end gas mileage and perf will be
noticeable from going to the plus side
From a guy called Larry at a place called J and J auto
Set Fuel Sync
motor at TDC rotor pointing at or near #1 wire
will be comp stroke will point towards pass side
of truck
damper at 0 always turn clockwise never turn back
or you will get any slop in the chain and dist
gear and be way off
looking from front of truck straight down over
rotor, pickup plat has 1 line marked cyl
with the rotor button centered over line 0
back edge of rotor lined with line towards the
clockwise position +3
most are set from factory at 0 to -6 not good
+3 to +6
1 degree on dist = 2 crank the intake opens 8
degrees before TDC and fireing the injector just
after this opens will catch it when both valves
are open and the scavaging effect will help draw
the fuel in faster while the exhaust and intake
are both open at the same time the exhaust pulse
actualy helps pull in the fuel (overlap) 32
degrees they are both open at the same time
Fireing the injector at 0 TDC you will miss this
and just be drawing with the piston down stroke
improved low end gas mileage and perf will be
noticeable from going to the plus side
From a guy called Larry at a place called J and J auto
Wonder if the distributor is 180* out of time?
Or if the timing chain has slipped a tooth?
Champion
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He's done most of the the sensors cap rotor plugs wires TC plenum. IDk how the Dist might be 180 out unless someone removed it and put it back in wrong. EDIT I just went over the thread and see there is no mention of the coil. IDK anything specific about these coils but when I first started trying to get this thing to give me the power I could feel in it as it idled a lot of people suggested I change the coil.
Last edited by onemore94dak; Aug 2, 2016 at 12:31 AM.
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 62
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From: Maine
Did he check further into the engine such as a dead valve? Is it getting good oil pressure? Did he check compression on all cylinders? Could be something OTHER than sensors. We all know what botchery Chrysler is capable of when it comes to electrical systems and sensor sharing.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 704
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He's done most of the the sensors cap rotor plugs wires TC plenum. IDk how the Dist might be 180 out unless someone removed it and put it back in wrong. EDIT I just went over the thread and see there is no mention of the coil. IDK anything specific about these coils but when I first started trying to get this thing to give me the power I could feel in it as it idled a lot of people suggested I change the coil.
Heck, might even be a bad computer. Sadly a lot of these get riddles with electrical problems over the years.
Grand Champion
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7,435
Likes: 578
Since last post have replaced Crank sensor, TPS and fuel regulator/filter. Still, it cranks and idles great, but hardly at all will rev up, and when it does do so without a bit of back fire, and cannot gain enough power to engage the clutch and pull off. But every once in a while will rev just fine and takes off like a bat out of hell if I let it.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=26194