Nope 96 FSM. Even if earlier year, Ive never heard of any logic ckt that would operate on any voltage other than 5v, but all through many wiring diagrams saw ref to the 8V. I agree, both cam and crank sensors either work or they dont. Its just a 0-5vdc pulse that they control. Thanks for searching yours and clarifying. It makes the crackling back fire in all conditions, load or no load. I figure if I can ever get the ability to rev 100% all the time, the backfire will probably also be corrected.

 

I don't think it's a typo....Certain sensors require a higher excitation voltage to generate a 5V waveform.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...L/pcm-pin-outs

If you google "dodge PCM 8v supply" there are references to 94, 95 and 96 dodges having 8V supplies.

Might help in diagnosing the 8V supply:

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1w6i...-no-start.html

Don't suppose you have an oscilloscope handy?

 

Robert thanks for the input and the links. The FSM I have does not give a pin by pin layout and description of the PCM connectors. Of course my FSM, shows that I only have 1 60 pin connector where I clearly have 3 so Im trying to decipher all of that. but I think you link may help with that.


On the Oscope....no longer have one. Screen went out on my old one I had for over 30 years and Ive just never replaced it. Just dont use it much anymore.

 

You may want to try putting a timing light on the coil wire and mark TDC in white so you can see it. Run the engine and see what happens when it backfires. When my plenum was shot under load ignition would drop out for a split second and when it came back you could see on the crank it didn't fire when it should witch would cause a "pop" back through then intake. Not sure if this is what's happening with yours but it may help to see what the ignition is doing.

 

I just recently replaced the plenum gasket and plate with the Hughes Kit. This rough running and backfire was going on prior to doing that. The kit was done to possible help the situation as well as the fact at the time I also had a bit of oil in the intake. After plenum job, Timing gear/chain/tensioner and many sensors it is still doing it. Waiting on a new pickup coil to arrive then see where it takes this situation.

 

To date, every sensor under the hood has now been replaced, including the 02 sensors.Even though just about every sensor passed FSM test specs, Ive still replaced them all. Ive checked every wire to every sensor and each does at it should. Above and beyond all of the other work that it did need. It does rev a bit better, but still has a slight amount of backfire, and Still will not not maintain enough power to go down the road. If I can keep it above 1500rpm, it does seem to do fair, but let it get under a heavy uphill road, step on the accel and it can go all the way to the floor and just bogs like lacking for fuel. Ive set the cam sync but it does seem to do a bit better if I advance that just a bit. Ive tried all sorts of just a tiny bit advanced or retarded setting, none will give it that ability to rev each time and keep the throttle response at a reliable drive-ability. Ive debated picking up an old MT 2500 tester by which to get the sync 100% spot on, but Wondering just how important that really is when all my tiny settings and driving tests have not accomplished much?

It maintains 42psi fuel pressure at idle and even if being held at 2500+ rpm. The last sensor replaced was the IAT sensor. According to the FSM it should bench test at 1170-1340 Ohms, if not in this range to replace. MY old one read 7200 and I thought I was on to something. BUT, the new one out of the box was 7200-7400 ohms. (cold vs hot)


After a few road tests this weekend went ahead and did another compression test, all cylinders were in the 160-170 range.

I capped all vacuum ports, then used a Snapon vacuum leak tester. I did find a small amount of leakage around a few of the new Injector seals, so took then all out, recleaned everything spotless and even used a small bit of super grey sealant..All back in, tiny leak is gone, but still doing the same thing.

If this thing had a regular distributor I'd say it feels a bit out of time or 1 or more injectors are not firing properly. But the way it just all of a sudden will in fact take off like a bat out of hell, points me away from the injectors. But I am now totally at a loss.

 

I hope that in this post you can parse out info that will help you.
That is the thing that drove me nuts and still does off and on. I am referring to the for no reason suddenly running great and giving all the power it clearly has to the wheels like it should.
After doing all you have I had my transmission rebuilt on advice but that didn't help at first. weird stuff happened with the mechanics I went to. The rebuild guy who turns out did an exchange instead of rebuild told me nothing was wrong. I took it to a dealer who kept it 3 days then told me "all tests are normal" and said they didn't fix anything. They had no printouts for the tests they say they did and could not tell me the exact results except to say "within spec or range". As you know the Dodge specs are not optimum in all cases.
Yet when I got in to drive it home it was a totally different truck. It had been fixed.
I figure the dealer mechanics know the trans guy and covered for him. It had yet another color pan under it when I got it back so they might have done another exchange.?? Adjusted it?
So it could have been wrong fluid or incorrect adjustment or??? One thing it had been doing is when I put it in reverse it took a few seconds to respond when I gave it gas. For the first few weeks after I got it back from the dealer it gave the normal shift feeling and instant response to putting it in reverse. It has gone back to the delayed slow response. ?
It was after all this that I fixed the exhaust manifold leak and replaced the pipes all the way back to the tail. I think now it is very close to being as responsive as it ever will be.

 

BUT I have a MANUAL transmission. lots of difference compared to things that can go wrong with an automatic.

 

Doh.

 

Dont feel bad....I myself have tried to find fault in the fact that I replaced the clutch pressure plate and flywheel..and how could it be causing any of this....when you scratch your head at odd problems, you tend to overlook obvious things and find fault in all sorts of things. I guess my next step is to check each and ever wire from PCM connector source over to the sensor that it feeds. Ive done individual senor testing as it correlates to how that sensor is supposed to work...but IVe yet to check ALL wires for continuity back home....what got me thinking was when I was testing the 02. I can see it on the scanner showing live data, but when I disconnect it, the PCM trips no code at all. First time I have ever disconnected an 02 or AFR sensor and NOT have it trip a code.