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Giving some serious thought to a front end swap on the vert build

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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 08:08 AM
  #11  
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Actually that picture of the vert does look good. FWIW I think the bed cover really helps as well.
I have ordered an intrepid fan off of ebay. Im going to try and sandwich it between the condenser and radiator. This is my thoughts. Assuming it will fit, I am going to try it on low speed. In addition, I have the smaller radiator. If it will keep the v6 cool in this heat we are having, then I should have no trouble cooling the v8 with high and the HD or wider radiator that is made for the dakota.
The fan is supposed to be here monday. I will try to get it installed next week and start testing.
The point I am trying to make is, if it works on my truck, you may want to consider doing the same on yours even with the new front end. That way you could keep AC on the truck.
Again, FWIW I have a white convertible corvette with white seats. And there is 2-3 months out of the year that I would not drive it without AC. 90 degree air, in the sun is still hot, even at 70MPH!!!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 10:56 AM
  #12  
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Point taken on the AC....I'm with you. But this is going to be my wife's goof around truck, so AC while it would be nice, is not important at the moment. She's cold when it's 90 degrees outside, so there's that

Now, I'm not throwing anything AC related away. I've kept the compressor, condenser and all hoses. When I changed out the heater core, I checked the inside AC core and it was good and I put it back in. So, at a later date, if possible, i can switch it over. However, I'm not running the SBEC either and some of the AC controls ran through the computer, so I'm not clear on what I'd have to do to get an AC system running without it. But it's not been high on the priority list, so I haven't researched it yet.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 10:56 AM
  #13  
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Funny, too on the tonneau cover. There's been a guy on my local CL advertising a new in box cover for a GEN 1 6.5' bed for several months...hmmmmmm
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 05:56 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by robertmee
However, I'm not running the SBEC either and some of the AC controls ran through the computer, so I'm not clear on what I'd have to do to get an AC system running without it. But it's not been high on the priority list, so I haven't researched it yet.
That part is simple.

1) WOT switch of some kind; be it vacuum off the manifold or mechanical off the throttle linkage, to disable the compressor on WOT for more power.

2) With an electric fan, a control to run the fan any time the A/C is running to get air flowing over the condenser.

3) Also, possibly, a control to disable the A/C if the engine is over, say, 230F coolant temp.

And that's it. The SMEC/SBEC will also up the idle, so they can run a lower idle speed without A/C but also up it a bit to keep the compressor from killing the engine at idle. That can be handled by simply upping the idle to a nice stable idle with the compressor running, and tolerating the faster idle you'll have without the compressor running. (Be sure to check it cold and warm, with the steering, if power, at lock; it's embarrassing to have the truck stall every time you try to park it in the heat *grins* )

Most engine fan controllers will have an A/C input to force electric fans on (and on high!) so that part's easy. The WOT switch is sometimes considered optional; if your motor has enough kick, it is, but us with the V6 don't have that luxury *grins*

RwP
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 11:30 AM
  #15  
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I'm about ready to give up. So I put the 94 core on the 90 frame today and it's not going to work. I honestly don't understand how anyone has been able to do a 91 and after swap on a 90. The 94 core nose is forward like I wanted but to achieve that look it puts the fender mounting holes back 3 inches towards the firewall. So using the 90 frame holes for the core just won't work...no way no how. The fender holes end up on a spacing of 32" from cowl to core...but the fenders are 35". So I went and measured my 95. The core holes in the frame are 3" farther forward. I can't drill new holes on my frame as that puts it well beyond the boxed end of the frame and then the front bumper mounts wouldn't work. I'm at a complete loss and don't know how anyone says the 91 and after front end swap is bolt on.
 

Last edited by robertmee; Jul 30, 2016 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 12:13 PM
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What the heck? I've never seen it done, only the results, and everyone always says that it's a bolt-on.

Someone on here must have tried this at some point.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ragged89
What the heck? I've never seen it done, only the results, and everyone always says that it's a bolt-on.

Someone on here must have tried this at some point.
That's what I thought too, but now that I'm searching, I can't find anyone that's actually done it...only heard it being done.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 12:36 PM
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Took another measurement...on the 95 from the front shock to the core support hole is 25.5". On the 90 it is 22.5". The core holes on the 90 and the frame are a full 3" shorter...no doubt about it.

If anyone else has a 87 to 90 could you please verify that measurement...with hood open measure from Core support bolt to center of shock bolt.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 12:39 PM
  #19  
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So it would appear that from 91 and on dodge extended the front end space NOT by elongation of the core support but by actually moving the core support forward 3". The core appears elongated because to keep the fender mounts in the same place they had to pull those back 3". So without frame work I don't see how anyone has done this.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #20  
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If anyone can point me to a link where it was done, I'd appreciate it...And not the one by 87DakBuilder.....He's completely wrong as he says his 'uncle' did it and used the same hood. I know that's not true. I sure hope this wasn't an internet tale that became truth by dozens repeating it. I'm guilty of that as well, as I for sure thought I'd read enough proof, but now that I'm searching for it, I can't find any.
 
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