So, as I said in another thread may be coming into some money soon. And changed plans on what its ear marked for.

I'm going to change all my front ball joints, tie rod ends, CV axles, and wheel hub assemblies.

(Ball joints definitely need replaced, upper passenger is shot. CV joints have ripped boots. And as far as I know everything is original, so light as well if I have free money.)

Anyways, all that will be about $650 taxed and shipped. I figure I can knock all this out myself then get the alignment. Hubs are straight forward to me, I read the thread I found on ball joints, so that's OK. (Top is threaded, special 2 1/8 socket needed, bottom is pressed and a c clamp tool will work) but trying to find a thread about tie rods, has came up with nothing. I know they're probably straight forward as well but I like reading threads before I dive into something.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? The search function here sucks. Anything else while I'm in there? Maybe pitman arm and idler arm? Bushing are too much pita for me to bother, they can wait for another time. I'll check the rack and pinion boots as well while I'm in there and see what's what.

 

Thanks for reminding me about the CV axles...both mine have split boots too.

You don't have a rack & pinion. But you should inspect the steering gear bolted to the drivers side frame rail for any obvious issues. Power steering hard lines can rust through over time so check those. Not a bad time to change the P/S fluid at this time as well.

Nothing to the tie-rods really. Pretty easy to pop the old ones out with a deadblow hammer. You'll want the inner and outer tie rods along with the adjuster sleeve.

Idler arm is easy, it's bolted to the passenger frame rail and pressed into the steering link. The pitman arm you need a pitman arm puller to replace, or just very carefully cut a notch all the way through the pitman arm and whack it off. I do not recommend this approach but it is how I did it. Note I replaced the pitman arm with the steering gear off the truck. No idea how easy it is to replace it with the steering gear still bolted up. EDIT: oh yeah the pitman arm must be installed in the same spline orientation it came off, I BELIEVE the Dakota arm can go on only one way, but I do not remember for sure.

For any replaced steering/suspension/driveline components, of course be sure to install any zerk fittings and grease the joints after installation. And remember to install all the cotter pins. I'm embarrassed to admit this, but I lost a cotter pin for a tie rod and drove on it anyway for a while; well,the nut apparently was under-tightened, and it came loose and tie rod popped off, stranding me in a snow storm.

Steering gear. Was not happy with the condition of the hardlines so I replaced lines & hoses


Idler arm.



This was just a bad idea but it worked to get the pitman arm off...


All steering laid out as it would be installed. New pitman arm is installed in this picture.

 

Oh and yes I agree that bushings are a bitch to do in the control arms, but check the bushings on the front stabilizer bar both where it bolts to the lower control arm and where it bolts to the frame. These bushings are cheap and not too difficult. This is what mine looked like after 23 years.

 

Thanks for all the info. This weekend in plan on jacking the truck up, placing it on stands, taking off the wheels and get a better look and idea on the placement of everything. Thanks a lot for the pics, your posts helped out a lot for future plans.

 

Good idea, honestly I think the best peace of mind when it comes to a vehicle is for the brakes to be in good shape, and steering is a close second. You'll be happy to have it all refreshed.

One more thing; for an alignment the shop will need to loosen the upper control arm bolts to adjust camber and caster. The bolts sit in a "valley" on the frame mount which gets filled with sand and gravel. May not be a bad idea to clean the dirt and mess out and just be sure that the bolts are in good shape and not really rusty, it'll make their job easier and then you'll feel more assured that your alignment trip will go smooth.

 

Indeed. Brakes are going to be the next project. Bought the truck with 133 and its approaching 175 fast. As for now, the steering isn't bad, (apart from cranking the torsion bars and skipping the alignment like a doof) its pretty great actually. But since I will have the money, I'd rather do it all at once and get it out of the way. As they say, I'd rather replace parts on my schedule vs. When ever the truck decides the need replaced and brake.

Been a great truck. Never thought I'd love a dodge as much as this one. I dispose dodge actually. But, I seen it at car lot and it just said buy me. Lol. Once I seen it had the 318 in a little truck I was sold. Been almost maintance free in two years. Still needs some odds and ends but nothing I wouldn't take it to Cali and back.

 

Is it possible to list all the replaceable parts which wear out for the front end? At least that way I will be able to comprehend what I am trying to read in the FSM

 

(2) inner tie rods
(2) outer tie rods
Pitman arm
Idler arm
(2) upper ball joints
(2) lower ball joints
(2) CV axles if 4x
(2) calibers
(2) rotors
Brake pads
(2) wheel hubs/bearings
Control arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
(2) shocks

There's a good start anyways

 

Thanks. Now I can research it. I did the brakes new calipers, rotors and hose in the front and the back was in real good shape except for the wheel cylinders which are now both new and new hose back there as well. What pads don't break down and leave a lot of visible dust on the outside of the wheels? Oh yea I put in new bearings up front as well.

 

I've always used whatever advanced autos silver pads are. Never seen any brake dust yet.